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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Joes Splicer Review (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Joes Splicer Review
Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-27-2000 02:03 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
With cement splices (which don't work on ESTAR-base stocks), you're supposed to use a different type of splicer for scope; the idea is that the CinemaScope splicer would have smaller registration pins (to accommodeate square perfs on mag-striped 35mm film) and a narrower overlap (to be less noticeable on screen). With tape splices, this isn't an issue, since there's no overlap (though the pins might still need to be smaller for mag); just make sure not to use the kind of "zebra" tape that makes a big "H" to mark the splice--the line across the frameline is almost always visible in scope.

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Martin Frandsen
Master Film Handler

Posts: 270
From: Denmark, Europe
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-27-2000 02:23 PM      Profile for Martin Frandsen   Email Martin Frandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If i remember correctly Mr. Harris works with a CIR 70mm splicer during the film-restoration of 'My Fair Lady' can be seen if you have the laserdisc of the film which has a program about the restoration at the end

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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 03-02-2000 11:21 PM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK Guys. Here goes. What is wrong with the Marble splicers? After reading the previous posts, I looked under mine and found it is made in Japan. Also, where might a boob like me get new cutting blades for one?

Mine seems to do a good job... IF i am careful to line-up the edges!

I used a Neumade this weekend that made splices that I could not feel.

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Dave Williams
Wet nipple scene

Posts: 1836
From: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 03-02-2000 11:46 PM      Profile for Dave Williams   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Williams   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My inventory says that I am supposed to have TWO nuemade splicers... instead I have ONE Marble splicer. While it does a job, it it a pain in the beehind. The splices are not very clean and they go through the projector like rocks. Would be nice to know what happened to my Nuemades....

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"If it's not worth doing, I have allready been there and done it"

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Daryl Lund
Film Handler

Posts: 88
From: Chehalis,WA, USA
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 03-03-2000 12:48 AM      Profile for Daryl Lund   Email Daryl Lund   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
run a motiograph and you can use masking tape or paper clips like Tom Moyer,s projectionist did.

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 03-03-2000 04:13 AM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Bruce: The Neumade produced splices that you could not feel? That's awesome! I bet you couldn't even hear those run through the projector.

It really does depend what type of splicing tape you use with each splicer as well. Neumade splicers do well with Neumade tape.

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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 03-03-2000 08:15 AM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe:
The owner of the Neumade splicer bought it new about a year ago. When using it, he told me to just pop the film into the guides, and go to it. The holes are perfectly punched out, and there is nothing sticking out at the edge of the film.

The projector image does not move when the splice passes. They look great.

He uses Neumade tape. He gave me a roll to use with the Marble. My splices look and feel the same no matter what tape I use.

Can I get blades anywhere for my Marble? Maybe new blades will help with film edges.
Bruce

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-03-2000 10:52 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, The Neumades do a nice clean job, but then they are made out of pot metal, are way way to expensive, and fall apart too fast.
Mark

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Bryan Redemske
Film Handler

Posts: 70
From: Cedar Falls, IA, USA
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 03-03-2000 11:13 AM      Profile for Bryan Redemske   Email Bryan Redemske   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Neumades are falling apart? ours is built like a damn tank - it's awesome. of course, some jackass stepped on it or threw it or something and busted the handle ($150), but that's it. i love it. we have a couple of other ones too, but i'll have to take a look at them. they don't see the light of day too much.


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Christopher Seo
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 530
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-03-2000 05:47 PM      Profile for Christopher Seo   Email Christopher Seo   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've only used Neumade splicers, and I've found I need to take some time to get the film to line up perfectly, but when it does, the splice remains steady on the screen and does not make a sound. My method of getting the film lined up in the splicer is to align the analog tracks; however, the film may shift around before I have a chance to tape it.

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Martin Frandsen
Master Film Handler

Posts: 270
From: Denmark, Europe
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-04-2000 05:57 AM      Profile for Martin Frandsen   Email Martin Frandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Dear Brad, how about some pictures of all the different types of splicers avalibel, i would like to see the ultrasonic splicer, maybe with pictures of how to use it. Also some pics of the cement splicer would be nice. How does the ultrasonic work, does it use some sort of heat?

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 03-04-2000 02:43 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Martin:

Check out the website for the Metric Ultrasonic Splicer:
http://www.metricsplicer.com

The Model 3001 would be the one normally used by theatres.

Hollywood Film Company has also just introduced an ultrasonic splicer:
http://www.hollywoodfilmco.com/Splicer.htm

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 03-04-2000 02:45 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe will be reviewing my Metric model 3001 splicer in the coming months.

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Martin Frandsen
Master Film Handler

Posts: 270
From: Denmark, Europe
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-05-2000 08:12 AM      Profile for Martin Frandsen   Email Martin Frandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I find the Ultrasonic splicer very expensiv around $3200 + plate. I still dont understand how it works, does it use some sort of heat source to melt the film together, or is it a chemical thing?

Taken the high price, i guess it's mostly used in labs and at first class theaters who want the best splicer around.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 03-07-2000 01:47 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Martin:

As I explained in another posting, the ultrasonic splicer cuts the film so there will be a slight overlap. The overlapping ends of the film are pressed into intimate contact with an ultrasonic transducer ("horn" or "anvil") vibrating at about 50 kilohertz. The ultrasonic energy causes the molecules in the thermoplastic polyester support to vibrate, generating heat, and melting the two pieces together creating a strong weld. Although the emulsion is not usually scraped from the area being spliced, the emulsion trapped within the weld makes the splice more unsightly, and as a "contaminant" to the weld, may weaken the splice.

An ultrasonic splicer will NOT work well with nitrate or triacetate film, since they are not thermoplastics, and char rather than melt when heated.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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