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Author Topic: cleaning procedures Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-01-2000 11:55 AM                     Fiber gear stripped That is why I always insist that all parts are cleaned by turning the machine over by hand I had a theatre that wrapped a rag in an XL intermitent and stripped the soundhead and main drive gears At another theatre a person managed the same trick with a AA2 when showing off how fast he could clean a machine The projector was scrapped for the replacement parts would have cost more than the replacement machine When the person was fired he went to the labour board and they gave him his job back that sucks death penalty for anyone who kills a AA2  |  IP: Logged Nic Margherio Film Handler Posts: 91 From: St. Louis MO, USA Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-02-2000 11:27 PM                     Randy, the absolute BEST product in the universe to clean port glass is Liberty Mirror Optical Cleaner, available from National Cinema Supply. The stuff is incredible. It is a white, chalky liquid that is applied with a shop rag, allowed to dry, and wiped clean with another rag, preferably while someone runs the lamp to see exaclty what you are doing. Once cleaned, you will barely be able to tell you have port glass at all! A word of caution though, it can be rather messy to use and I recommend that you clean only the area struck by the projection beam with it.  |  IP: Logged Richard Quesnelle Film Handler Posts: 67 From: Penetang, Ontario, Canada Registered: Mar 2000 posted 04-05-2000 11:01 PM                     Thanks guys for all the great tips. I cleaned my platters with a damp cloth of Windex. Is that OK by most or should I use something different. Also, what would be the best degreaser/cleaner I should use on my Century c's. Would Mark Odgen's homebrew work well for this job? Are there any recommendations on cleaning the inside of these projectors? They are old and I find it cramped and hard to get most places with just a rag. Do I need to remove any rollers or is there a secret tip from the experts. Thanks Reg  |  IP: Logged Mike Colley Film Handler Posts: 25 From: Dacula, GA Registered: Jan 2000 posted 04-06-2000 06:25 AM                     I always had a hell of a time cleaning port glass until I found a handy little item at Home Depot. It is a squeegee kit that has a soft cotton head to loosen up any tough stains and a traditional rubber squeegee to wipe away the water. The solution I use with this is 1:1 isopropyl alcohol and water. This only takes about one minute inside and out and the glass is perfectly clean every time. Virtually no reflection afterwards! The only thing left on the port is the scratches from prior poor cleaning practices.  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-07-2000 04:32 PM                     I've been wondering if what I'm seeing is actually microscopic scratches in the glass. Maybe I should try to get that Liberty Mirror cleaner... or something to polish out the scratches. How about "Glass Wax"?  |  IP: Logged William Hooper Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1879 From: Mobile, AL USA Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-12-2003 02:01 AM                        quote: Use non-metallic pick (e.g, plastic guitar pick, hardwood or plastic manicure tool) to dislodge any hardened gelatin buildup on gate. Metal or abrasive tools may nick or damage polished surfaces. I use a Scotch-Brite pad for cleaning/oxidation removal/polishing surfaces for soldering or mechanical electrical connection, & I've been very tempted to try it on gates that have cemented junk that won't budge. Would use of a Scotch-Brite pad accelerate wear of the rails on a gate?  |  IP: Logged Daryl C. W. O'Shea Film God Posts: 3977 From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from) Registered: Jun 2002 posted 09-12-2003 02:19 AM                        I'd only use it carefully as a last resort. Remember, Scotch Brite is used for scuffing up materials (like aluminum) to prep it for painting. You're certainly going to damage a polished rail. Have you tried alcohol and a tooth brush? 98% of the time you can get the hardest build up out with alcohol and a tooth brush without disassembling anything. The other 2% of the time it'll come off after disassembling so you can apply a little more pressure.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-12-2003 12:10 PM                     On badly gunked up rails I use a soft brass brush that looks like a slightly oversized toothbrush  |  IP: Logged Stephen Furley Film God Posts: 3059 From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England Registered: May 2002 posted 09-13-2003 04:44 AM                     Two parts distilled water, one part isopropanol and a few drops of photographic wetting agent seems to work well on port glass. Orange sticks are good for removing small deposits of emulsion etc from metal parts without risk of scratching.  |  IP: Logged Don E. Nelson Expert Film Handler Posts: 138 From: Brentwood, CA, USA Registered: Nov 2001 posted 09-15-2003 03:05 PM                     Thanks for the advice, this gets printed out and goes into my projection journal notes  |  IP: Logged Joshua Burnham Film Handler Posts: 43 From: Rainier, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2003 posted 09-15-2003 03:31 PM                     I am also taking notes, but I had a few questions what are orange sticks? How & when do you clean the LED readers? I am running christie m35gps's. I haven't been been properly taught how to clean any optics for that matter. thanks  |  IP: Logged Stephen Furley Film God Posts: 3059 From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England Registered: May 2002 posted 09-15-2003 03:41 PM                     Orange sticks: smooth wooden sticks, about 10cm long, a bit like a large cocktail stick, pointed at one end, flattened like a screwdriver blade at the other. You find them in shops that sell things that women use on fingernails, nail varnish, nail files emery boards etc. They are hard enough to remove deposits from camera and projector gates, but smooth and soft enough to have no risk of scratching the parts, unlike a metal tool.  |  IP: Logged

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