As for Torus screens, AMC does not install them anymore, nor do they install any kind of "revision" to it either.

Opener comes in early to thread. I like this sometimes because people won't bug you and you can just do your work by yourself. Once all are threaded, you just have to start them. Can be done by one guy.

Mid-shifter comes in at about 2pm. Just before the first round starts to end. Two guys run the place until about 6pm.

Closer comes in at 6. Opener goes home. Two guys run the booth until the last show of the night starts. Mid-shifter goes home.

Closer baby sits the last shows, and shuts down. Since the movies drop one at a time, any cleaning can be done as they drop. A guy who stays on top of things will often find that he has time to go out and have a quick smoke.

Paul, are you sure that NONE of the screens are perforated. AMC typically installs a variety of screen in one complex. Here at BarryWoods 24 I have 3 different types of screens. There is a 2" hole in the port glass? How do they keep the projector noise from leaking into the auditorium?

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The only other issue I have heard regarding perforated screens that might give reason for an unperforated screen is "interference" with the pixel structure of Digital Cinema projectors. I recall that Harkness Hall actually had to develop a new smaller perforation to minimize interference with the pixels, known as the "MP" (mini-perforation) screen: http://www.harknesshall.com/data1.htm

The two inch hole has a sliding cover on it to close when not in use.

I forgot about one thing. The Millenium head has a rubber type pad roller that directly contacts the image area to provide pressure to the soundhead for turning. Unlike the Christie that has an o-ring that rides on the perforation to provide sound head rotation.
This could be a problem if the rubber pad is not kept free of debris.

"I forgot about one thing. The Millenium head has a rubber type pad roller that directly contacts the image area to provide pressure to the soundhead for turning. Unlike the Christie that has an o-ring that rides on the perforation to provide sound head rotation. This could be a problem if the rubber pad is not kept free of debris."

I agree that it is very important to keep anything that contacts the image area of the film free of anything that may abrade or damage the film surface. However, in my experience, if the "rubber" is soft enough, and the roller turns freely without film slipping against it, the risk of damage is low. With age, these types of rollers may harden or develop flat spots, and should be replaced when they do. I find an excellent cleaner for these surfaces is 90+ percent isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol using a clean dampened wipe. (The "pre-moistened" alcohol wipes or pads sold to clean CRT screens and tape recorder capstans work well). Keep the alcohol (or ANY solvent) away from bearings.

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Here's a link that I found for "Rubber Renue" :
CLICK HERE

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

Pat Moore,

Use the plastic takeup cores that come with the Fim-Tech media pads or that come enclosed with the FilmGuard bottles as takeup cores. That will solve your problem permanently.

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