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Author Topic: What happens if...
Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-07-2001 09:45 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have been using the old "Loop of black film" tick for a while, now. Matter of fact, I teach many of our people to to that every time they change the lamp.

For some reason, there are people who insist upon fiddling with the auto focus mechanism on the Christie consoles when they don't know what they are doing. I've been telling people to leave the focus settings as they are and to run black film when they are done changing the lamp. If they see any damage on the film loop they are supposed to call me for further instructions.

More often than not, if the focus settings are done right in the first place they don't need to be changed. Only the horizontal/vertical adjustments realy need to be checked. Even then they may not have to be adjusted if they were set properly in the first place.
Again, if they can't get it right they are supposed to call me for help before they go running a print in that house.

I have found that by telling people to do this there are a LOT less problems with burning prints.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 07-08-2001 02:49 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ummmm....Randy, sometimes the lamp focus is necessary because of the erosion of the xenon elements. I usually verify that every 1000 hours or so. Quite often, lamp re-focus was necessary.

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Robert Golding
Film Handler

Posts: 65
From: Sutter, CA, USA
Registered: Jan 2001


 - posted 07-08-2001 04:03 AM      Profile for Robert Golding   Email Robert Golding   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
First let me just say, as a owner operator of a theatre that runs 2 weeks out from opening, this is one of my biggest beefs with the Distributers. I must say anyone who would send back a damaged print with out telling the Distributer, be it Disney, Warners, etc., should be removed from being allowed to run any further movies from that Distributer. This is harsh but that's the price they should pay. I personally will not accept a print from Syufy (Century Theatres). Because they are so big they still get all the movies they want and continue to damage prints daily. I just can't understand the amount of damage that continues to be present in our industry, IT'S BECOMING A DISGRACE. Maybe some day, ha, ha, these people will be weeded out of the sys. Sorry to get off on a tangent, but this has been going on for years and it just seems to get worse.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-08-2001 11:18 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yeah, I know that the lamp's focus setting can change slightly over the life of the lamp but, believe me, you don't want all sorts of untrained people messing with that control. I'd rather have a screen be a hair bit dim than have a burned print.

When I make the rounds I often make adjustments to lamp focus if I notice that it needs it. I don't have any problem getting enough light out of a Christie console.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 07-09-2001 12:47 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The most critical film to use to test for film damage from excessive radiant energy is black SILVER IMAGE (black-and-white) film. The silver image absorbs both visible and infrared energy.

Another good test is to run a long loop of a trailer having very dark scenes. Run the loop at least a few hundred times to simulate damage from a long run (a print gets about 150 runs per month) and look for damage. Radiant energy damage usually occurs in the "hot spot" of each frame. Look for any film blistering or deformation, and any opalescence when viewed by reflected light (a spot that looks magenta from the emulsion side, and yellow-green from the back side of the film). Projected on the screen, a heat damaged print may show dye migration (colored "halos" around dark objects), "snowflake" like spots, a lighter faded spot, or be difficult to focus.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion


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