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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Projector Cleaning 101 (Page 3)

 
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Author Topic: Projector Cleaning 101
Thomas Procyk
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1842
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 03-18-2004 09:48 AM      Profile for Thomas Procyk   Email Thomas Procyk   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hmmm. I notice a lot of suggestions here are given with "ideal" conditions in mind. (Film cleaners every showing and competent operators) But if you leave a can of compressed air at each projector with a booth full of kids, you will be buying compressed air every other day.

I was always under the impression to clean "top-down." That way any dirt or debris that fall will eventually make it to the floor as you go along. Then just sweep/mop the floor. Compressed air does the opposite. It sends stuff back UP to land at its convenience... sometimes even on the prints.

The only time I would use compressed air would be to clean the DTS reader (as reccomended) or to blow a piece of debris out of the apeture during a show (used prints) if these lips can't cut it! [Wink]

We have only one film cleaner at our theater and run Cinemeccanica V5s. We get used prints ALL the time (with a few exceptions) so we have to clean the gate and trap rails with a Q-tip and alcohol EVERY show, or dirt will build up and cause focus problems. A few passes through the cleaner with FG and this just about disappears. Then we wipe everything down with a rag and a tiny spritz of alcohol on it.

I disagree with Brad ( [uhoh] ) about the paintbrushes, though. They help to get into the tight spots where things might build up or get missed. The bristles can reach aroud things you don't feel like disassembling every show. They reach things my fingers and a rag can't.

It's hard to find time to thorougly clean the projectors during operating hours when your walkie-talkie is screaming for you to clean theaters. [Frown] That leaves most of the "heavy" cleaning at the end of the night, which nobody else seems to want to be bothered with.

=TMP=

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-18-2004 09:56 AM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What's the best way to clean the dust out of arc lamphouses? I
assume that a small vacuum cleaner (with a filter on the exhaust
side) would work well, but the carbon booths I've run only seem
to provide paintbrushes, presumably to be used to sweep the ash
onto the floor (which, hopefully, would then get swept later).

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 03-18-2004 10:04 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A small vacuum would be the best option. The ash may contain rare earth elements, so good filtration and a safety dust mask / respirator would be advisable.

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Phil Blake
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 558
From: esperance western australia
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted 03-27-2004 10:39 AM      Profile for Phil Blake   Author's Homepage   Email Phil Blake   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We stick to the basics with cleaning Vic 5's , toothbrush for sprockets , paintbrush for the hard to get to spots and rag with "Mr Sheen" furniture polish to clean the gate and runners , Mr sheen easily removes all build up on the gate and runners.Booth floor is vacuumed not swept.

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David M. Dorn
Film Handler

Posts: 35
From: Hartford, CT USA
Registered: Mar 2004


 - posted 03-27-2004 04:16 PM      Profile for David M. Dorn   Email David M. Dorn   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My experience with any opt-mechnical device suggests that compressed air cleaning is not the way to go. You may want to consider using a 3M Service Vac. It's the one used by most photocopier service technicans. It is available with a sub-micron filter, one fine enough to filter copy toneer.
It's not cheap but it is compact and comes with tools for reaching hard to get places, like on a copier (or a projector). Larger specialty tools stores may carry them. Jensen on the internet lists them.

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Jackson Gilman
Film Handler

Posts: 37
From: Madison, WI, USA
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted 03-30-2004 02:09 PM      Profile for Jackson Gilman   Email Jackson Gilman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I was told that cleaning out the lenses on the soundhead should be done with cue tips and something with Ammonia-D (like windex), and was also told that it should be done weekly. Wouldn't the cue tips scratch the lens, or are they more durable than the actual projector lenses?

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-30-2004 03:39 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't see a problem with a Q-Tip being used on the sound lens but I do have a problem using Windex. I would use lens cleaning solution instead.

Just put a drop or two of whatever solution you use for your lenses on the end of the Q-Tip and carefully wipe away the dirt in the same fashion you clean a regular lens, only smaller. Then flip the Q-Tip around and use the other end to dry the lens.

For the solar cell, I would only use a dry Q-Tip and very lightly wipe any dirt off. I think the moisture from the lens cleaning solution would tend to damage the cell. If you use a reverse scan/LED system, maybe just a drop of cleaner would be OK. Just don't overdo it.

As long as the Q-Tips are kept clean in their original package and not contaminated, they shouldn't hurt the lens.

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