Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Looking for some ORC manuals

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Topic: Looking for some ORC manuals

Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 12-22-2000 12:49 AM

This is kind of off topic but if youre DVD player is only playing black and white through the Y/C connection (S-Video) Then you probably need a new Y/c Cable or jack. The reason that a y/c connection looks better than a standars RF is that it seperates the Luminace (Black and white) and the Chrominance (color) information and sends them through the cable seperately it sounds as if only half the information is making it where it needs to go

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I love to smoke I smoke seventhousand packs a day and I'm never F*&ing quittin!-- Denis Leary

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Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 01-11-2001 10:40 PM

Wow. I go away for a couple of weeks (no email, no computer, no worries) and look at what happens! Thanks guys for the posts!

For those that offered manuals, "Thank you" and I'll be contacting you off-list shortly.

BTW during the hiatus I did manage to get that Apex DVD machine playing in color again through the judicious application of some heat sinks and additional vent holes...

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Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 02-05-2001 10:12 PM

My thanks to Paul Thompson for supplying jpegs of the schematics for the lamp and the power supply. Still hoping someone will come through with a complete manual though. For one thing I don't know the recommended reflector to film-plane distance for this beast. Ditto for adjustment procedures for any of the internal pots in the power supply.

I've been able to do some further checking and the symptoms have changed somewhat. After blowing out the p/s (pneumatically, not electrically ) and doing some tightening of connections and such, the fans came up upon power up. With this p/s (#1) connected to its original lamphouse (#1), the lamp would strike, but only manually for the first strike. Auto-strike worked after that first manual strike. Alas, the lamp shut itself off after about seven minutes of operation. We could manually re-strike it, but the lamp killed itself again within a minute or two. The fans were still operating.

I then connected the #1 p/s to the #2 lamp. Voila! This combination ran just fine. So it looks to me that the problem lies within the #1 lamphouse instead of the #1 p/s. Ran out of time at that point--will be back to attack next weekend.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-05-2001 11:10 PM

Paul, You just might have a goofy bulb.

PS - the adjustment pot on the front of the power supply is a current adjustment. Just give 'er a crank to adjust your bulb current. If it does not respond, something in your regulator bank is screwed up.

I think if you used the distance to the film plane that is specified in the XH-16 or XH-30 lamp manuals, it would be very close. The lamphouses are the same length as the 2500 lamphouse. If you are using that real short lamphouse, (I forgot the Model No) it still should be OK as it has a concave dichloroic filter in it. Just shove it up against the shutter schroud, and it should work ok.

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