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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Help needed determining a scratch origination (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Help needed determining a scratch origination
Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-07-2001 09:18 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Do not remove the roller between the bottom of the intermitent and the lower sprocket. Excessive flutter in the sound will develop
THe problem is usually the wrong sized lower loop
Position the word Picture Start in the apperture and adjust the lower loop until the sound diamond is didectly across fromthe optical slit. If that is correc the lower roller will not cause scratching unless it is worn.
It was put there for a very important reason, just like it is there on the JJ

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Tim Sherman
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 125
From: North Ridgeville, OH, USA
Registered: Aug 2000


 - posted 05-07-2001 10:10 PM      Profile for Tim Sherman   Author's Homepage   Email Tim Sherman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I just wish that you had this problem taken care of eairler. You said that with the old screen it was on you knew the scratches were there but didn't care because you couldn't see them. But don't forget these prints don't get shown in just one theater. so think about what happend to the next theater that received your scratched print. I know we have all had prints come in we needed to get replacements for, and it is alot more of a pain to have to go through , then it the film was taken care of at the previous theater. So all i am sayng to everyone is that if you are doing damage to prints get that problem fixed, and get it fixed fast. Most problems from scratches in my opinion are something that is very eaisly fixed without the need to call in a tech.

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Cory Johnson
Film Handler

Posts: 46
From: La Crosse, WI USA
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 05-08-2001 12:03 AM      Profile for Cory Johnson   Email Cory Johnson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I will try and answer as best I can. here goes:
Definitely not caused by a loop too big. I threaded it myself for the first 4 showings on a feature and the marking showed up.
Joe is right in that the "Middle" I mean the very right of the screen, but the markings tend to migrate towards the middle, and they always seem to happen the worse at the same spot: towards the middle on the very right side.
As far as the pad roller goes between the intermittent sprocket and lower feed sprocket, yes there is one there. Should I just remove it entirely? The sound flutter issue doesn't really apply(?) as the theatre has DTS.
I know it is not the DTS reader - it is less than a year old and the markings were there when the old one was in use. There were also times when we skipped the reader (non-DTS film) and the markings still appeared.
I believe it isn't the platters (Strong Auto programming platter), I am also on the same lines as Joe. If the markings are in a pattern, always at the same spot, it can't be a circular motion roller. I has to be something else.
I will check on the emusion side. I actually put a different film gate and shoe in the projector, but the markings still showed up.
Heres something else to consider: The projector actually froze up last Thurs (for no apparent reason) and we ended up having to have the intermittent replaced with a rebuilt, along with the usual coupler replacement to go along with it. Now, the marking appear further in on the film and are more noticeable. What could they have altered to cause this? Something in the alignment of the intermittent sprocket and shoe on the film gate?
We have been going around on this issue for years and we get no where because our techs don't know what to say because everything checks out perfectly on inspections. Yes, we have turned the blind eye for a while, but you are right that it is noticeable when moving the print to a different theatre. We are just hoping to throw the 35's out the window anyways and go with simplexes. The 35's are a large pain the ass along with our 1 remaining Xetron lamp house.
I will remove the roller as suggested, unless someone has a specific reasoning why not to. I will check the guide rollers, but am 99% that they are also correct. Keep the suggestions coming - hopefully we can nail it down to something... Thanks for all the input.

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 12:44 AM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Replace every single component in the projector.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 05-08-2001 01:04 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon, Those rollers on the Ballentyne have caused more scratches than you can shake a stick at, even when they were new. Strong international FINALLY modified those rollers so that on pulldown, the film "cupping" will not come in contact with the center of the roller, which caused nasty horizontal scratches as the film slams against the center of the roller. Even the new ones raised cain with film scratching, but not nearly as bad as the older style. The newer rollers were cut out deeper in the center than it was on the edges. (It was not straight across).

I was told by Strong International people that the only reason for that roller is to reduce loop noise, but that machine is still very quiet without it.

I have not noticed any change in sound flutter during tune-ups without that roller.

If the projectionist threads up his machine and the loop passes equally above and below the shaft hole by observation when the machine is inched forward, the lower loop will be the correct size. It isn't any bigger than a Brenkert or a Century.

The model VII Ballentyne soundhead is not the greatest soundhead in the world. Most of the flutter I have seen is caused by the scanner bearings being rough, the damper assy is shot, or there are major build-ups of crud and corruption on the timing belt pulleys or the belt tensioner, improper belt tension, a faulty timing belt, not to mention the friction "O" ring deterioration on the sound head stabilizer flywheel.

Other flutter problems were caused by the projector not running at a constant speed for one reason or another.


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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 04:32 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Cory,

Three things to test. First, take a brand new trailer and run it yourself without the aperture plate in the machine 8 times in a row (double what it took for the scratch to show up on a brand new print). If the scratch is not there, you have just found your problem.

Next, if the scratch is still there it sounds like either a loop scratch (from making the loop too big or too small). Try performing the same test with larger or smaller loops.

Finally, if that still isn't it, then I would look for a misalignment on the shoe or a rough spot. I can't think of anything else that it could be since you clarified that the scratches do not run continuously from top to bottom of the picture.


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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 08:06 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Also with out that roller there is a far less steady image on the screen as a gen rule.
I have never had that roller cause a scratch in any of the pro35's we service.

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 05-08-2001 10:03 AM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had that roller cause scratches do to the edges of the part of roller that the sprockets run across becoming worn. I replaced it with the newer typ of roller at the time. one question. Is the trap a straight gate or curved gate. Those straight gates have to be set tp allow just a piece of 35 mm film to pass thru with splice. if it is too close film will buckle a little.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 01:26 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Even though the Pro35 trap looks straight it is actually curved. They copied the old Motiograph curved gate that curved the film laterally instead of the usual curve gate.
With out that lower roller it is not uncommon to have a unstable image.
Also because of the gate curvature it is not uncommon for a badly focused lamp to be the root of the problem causeing buckling that hits the apperture plate

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 05-08-2001 01:38 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon is correct about the lateral curve in the gate. There are two gate gauges - a "77" and a "75".

Using the wrong gauge in the wrong film trap will present problems.

It is not a good idea to change the intermittent sprocket without the correct gauge.

Unstable picture with or without the "lay-on" roller is common in the older machines because of a poor trap design, and the coupler bobbins are all hammered to shit because the outboard bearing was grossly mis-adjusted and made too tight, or the outboard bearing is shot.

The new trap Ballentyne designed is much more superior to anything they had.

Place your fingers on the outboard bearing assembly and start the machine. If you can feel it throbbing, the bearing and/or coupler is shot. Then, walk up to the screen, eyeball the picture, and you will probably see a slightly unstable image.


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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 03:31 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Man, if only we could see a short 1 second video of the projector manually advancing threaded up the way everyone always threads it. It would answer a lot of questions.

It might be easier to run a film loop of something rather than an entire trailer. That way you can 100% eliminate the possibility that it is caused by the platter. You didn't answer the question about the aperature, though. Is it the same one you used before you got the new screen?


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Cory Johnson
Film Handler

Posts: 46
From: La Crosse, WI USA
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 05-08-2001 06:46 PM      Profile for Cory Johnson   Email Cory Johnson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In answer to the plate: No, it is a new plate. Yes, the markings were still there from the previous plate. Will removed the roller and run some green preview stock through continuously to see what happens. Thanks.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-08-2001 07:48 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Dumb question
Does the roller have a flat spot on it?
look closely at the edges where the perf contact it

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John Wilson
Film God

Posts: 5438
From: Sydney, Australia.
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 05-13-2001 04:04 AM      Profile for John Wilson   Email John Wilson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Take a piece of film you know to be scratched already and thread it in the projector. Take a close look at what parts of the projector touch the image of the print. My guys were saying our problem was a misthread on the platter, but I found it to be a light touch on the dts reader roller that did exactly as you are describing.

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