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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » I really need to start splicing head and tail leaders back on the prints (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: I really need to start splicing head and tail leaders back on the prints
John T. Hendrickson, Jr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 889
From: Freehold, NJ, USA
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 01-10-2002 05:11 PM      Profile for John T. Hendrickson, Jr   Email John T. Hendrickson, Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's another solution if you are uncomfortable breaking down on the small MUT.

Back the print off the platter onto 6,000 ft reels. Take them back to your make-up bench. There you can reattach the heads and tails of each reel in better light. Easier to peel off your splicing tape and make your splices, too!

Granted, you ship the print out tails up, but look at it this way. If it goes to a platter house, it's a snap to build tails up onto 6,000's and you don't need to rewind- just spin onto the platters.
If the print goes to a changeover house, it is easy for the projectionist to inspect for cue marks and then run the print onto house reels.

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Brent Mahaney
Film Handler

Posts: 43
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky, USA
Registered: Dec 2001


 - posted 01-11-2002 01:09 AM      Profile for Brent Mahaney     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You know, before you start thinking to yourself, "Lazy S.O.B's," you have to realize that there are some theatres that actually teach this quick breakdown method. When I started in booth, I was taught to tear the splice, attach the heads and tails with masking tape, and then throw it in the can. I had absolutely no idea that it could cause trouble for the next theatre that received the print.

Being a rehabilitated improperly-trained projectionist, I tend to have a little more mercy on those booth people who don't know any better. Hopefully, threads like this one will serve the purpose of teaching the professional way to tear down.

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Jesse Skeen
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1517
From: Sacramento, CA
Registered: Aug 2000


 - posted 01-11-2002 02:58 PM      Profile for Jesse Skeen   Email Jesse Skeen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's true; I forgot to add that the theater's "Booth Certifier"(TM) subsequently had my trainees build used prints for the summer kids' matinees by CUTTING off the frames that had the previous theater's splicing tape!!!

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Mike Blakesley
Film God

Posts: 12767
From: Forsyth, Montana
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-11-2002 08:59 PM      Profile for Mike Blakesley   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Blakesley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sometimes there is no choice but to cut off the tape. Anytime I receive a print which has Zebra tape all over the ends (which happens more often than not) I have to cut the tape-covered frames off. That stuff just won't peel well at all, nor will any other cheap splicing tape.

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-11-2002 11:18 PM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I hate to say it, but it seems like most Certifiers don't truly care about Film Done Right. Jesse, yours isn't the only horror story I've heard about certification gone wrong. Seems like some of them just care about getting their money. Certifiers like me seem to be the exception, not the rule. After all, how many others are members here? AFAIK, I am the only one. If there are any others, please speak and be heard!

I can say that I do know two really good certifiers, and I'm sure there are others. I just wish all of them were as good as these two.


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Bill Enos
Film God

Posts: 2081
From: Richmond, Virginia, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 01-12-2002 07:51 AM      Profile for Bill Enos   Email Bill Enos   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Given the choice of receiving a print with all the heads, tails, bands etc. tossed in the cans loose or attached with masking tape, white paper tape, hell, even duct tape is better than unidentified. Tape goo I can get off.

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Steve Anderson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 168
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 01-12-2002 09:58 AM      Profile for Steve Anderson   Author's Homepage   Email Steve Anderson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What about the tape you see used on the head and tail of the film where the print and reel number show? What kind of masking tape is this. If you peel away some of that tape there is no sticky glue left behind.....

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-12-2002 11:12 AM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That is "white paper tape" or "artist's tape," which for some reason is different form masking tape. Available from a mail-order company called Tape Products Company. I have the phone number if you want it. I'm sure you can get it other places, too, I just don't know where.

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Jim Ziegler
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 753
From: West Hollywood, CA
Registered: Jul 99


 - posted 01-12-2002 03:04 PM      Profile for Jim Ziegler   Email Jim Ziegler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had pretty good luck wiht drafting tape.. Unless you leave it on for a while, it won't leave reside behind. However, unlike permacel, you can get drafting tape at OfficeMax...

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 01-13-2002 12:47 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just about any of the splicing tapes CAN be peeled off, though the crap is certainly more work.

On "Zebra tape" peel off the top layer, thereby leaving the sticky part behind. Use masking or like tape to pull the glue off by pressing the masking tape onto the glue area and pulling the masking tape off rapidly...repeat as needed to remove the glue.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 11-08-2002 07:41 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wow. I just happened across this thread by accident. Brad comments, "I have to chop off multiple frames because I cannot get that damned masking tape goo off of the film and I don't want a brain wrap in the middle of my show from it."

Umm, masking tape is annoying, but it's not that annoying. Use of the correct solvent will solve the problem for you, at the cost of spending ~30 seconds scrubbing at the tape residue with a solvent-wetted cotton wipe. There should not be any reason to cut off frames due to residue.

I'm not sure what solvent to recommend; we're happy w/ inhibitted 1,1,1 trichloroethane (aka Renovex), but of course you can't buy Renovex anymore, and can't trivially buy 1,1,1 trichloroethane legally (manufacture now prohibitted in a number of countries, including the US, by the Treaty of Montreal).

But I know there are plenty of other solvents you can use. Some may have inconveniently low flash points, or be slower to evaporate, but that shouldn't be a serious impediment to using them on single frames of film, as opposed to coating the entire print. Some people have recommended using naptha, lighter fluid, etc. And there's of course Renovex II, though I haven't tried it.

--jhawk
(who spends more time cleaning off tape gunk than you might imagine...)


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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 11-08-2002 11:33 PM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The best solvent for removing ANY tape adhesive residues is good ol' Film-Guard!

spray it on, let it sit for a couple minutes and in most cases simply wipe clean!

-Aaron

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-08-2002 11:59 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I haven't re-read this thread to see if I mentioned this before, but there is not just the issue of sticky goo on the print. There is also the almost certain possibility that the last guy who had the print did not have a splicer that made a quality cut. If it comes between losing a frame or having a loud POP in the audio, that frame is gone. (I will normally only cut one side of the joint a little bit extra far over from center to prevent me from having to chop a frame from each side. I also always choose the head of the incoming reel so as to not disturb the changeover theaters.)

And before anyone suggests "blooping", I've tried every different technique I've ever seen and I do not like the "bump" it makes in the audio.

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 11-09-2002 12:22 AM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Is that a real issue for digital sound?

--jhawk

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-09-2002 03:42 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
If it is digital and the tracks are not damaged, then no I will not chop the frame.

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