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Topic: What type of paint should I use to restore a vintage Simpex projector?

Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 01-14-2002 09:18 PM

I too am restoring a Simplex Regular/Standard SR No 12999. John, I hope you do not mind me posting some of the info you gave me from our conversation the other day.

As John told me, the later models have the SR NO stamped on the mainframe casting on the back by the intermittent. Early models had the single bearing intermittent, but most were eventually replaced with the double bearing style. The star and cam in my intermittent has some light surface corrosion, but John says that it should be ok because these early mechanisms had 0.0005 tolorances, which, relatively speaking, is kinda "loose"?

By the way John, what kind of thick finish is on some of the Super and E-7 parts, such as the shutter shaft brackets? Sorry if I made any mistakes in the above statement!

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Randy Loy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156

Registered: Aug 1999

posted 01-15-2002 08:07 AM

John,

I'll get the serial number off of my Standard when I get home tonight and e-mail you directly. Thanks!

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-15-2002 10:08 AM

Ken
Where'd you get the
"Zynolyte Wrinkle Finish Black 1300 (barcode 036333013004)"
I've been looking for a source for that stuff for years. I comes in a few other colors too, doesn't it? Like Gray and Brown

------------------
Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut
http://www.muellersatomics.com/

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-15-2002 10:13 AM

Ah....here it is http://www.zynolyte.com/zynolyte/zynolytehome.html#

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut
http://www.muellersatomics.com/

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-15-2002 07:08 PM

Better get that Zynolyte Wrinkle Finish while you can. I talked with them today and they have discontinued it. Drat

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut
http://www.muellersatomics.com/

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 01-15-2002 10:35 PM

Will, your machine was made in 1920, the corosion can be cleaned up with a little tlc using crocus cloth (1000 grit) and light oil, or you can just run-it-in! (if the corrosion is only on the face of the star quadrants and the cam radius. If it ia on the shafts, Definitely put them in a lathe and polish with crocus cloth or lightly with a very fine stone finished with crocus cloth! I would even run a split lap through the bores of the movement case lightly with some fine clover compound. (1000 grit) As for finish on the parts you mentioned, if it is paint, it was lead base enamel baked on, If its the coating on new parts & shafts, it is most likely cosmoline long term preservative and is easily removed with light oil or solvent. Also, during the early days, the tolorances of projector intermittents was about one ten-thousandth of an inch. (as mentioned in both Simplex & LaVezzi literature) Have fun!

------------------
John Eickhof President, Chief Slave
Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc.
P.O.Box 258
Wendell, ID. 83355-0258
208-536-5489
email: jeickhof@nteequip.com

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 01-15-2002 10:37 PM

I forgot to mention, that early Simplex Regulars had the serial number stamped on the boss located just under the lens mount I believe up untill 1914 or so, then the serial was located to the edge of the center frame just above the intermittent carriage. Supers and E-7s are in this place also.

------------------
John Eickhof President, Chief Slave
Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc.
P.O.Box 258
Wendell, ID. 83355-0258
208-536-5489
email: jeickhof@nteequip.com

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Randy Loy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156

Registered: Aug 1999

posted 01-16-2002 08:15 AM

John, you read my mind! I was going to ask you that very question. I went home last night and looked at my Simplex Regular and found the metal International Projector Corp. tag with the patent numbers but no serial number. Now I know where to look for the serial number. I'll e-mail it to you as soon as I have it.

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Bernard Tonks
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 619
From: Cranleigh, Surrey, England
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-16-2002 03:24 PM

I repainted the inside of my pair of old Westar (Century) projectors and RCA 9031 soundheads last summer with three coats of spirit based Hammerite Radiator Enamel in high gloss white, they really do look superb. The problem with most white paints is that it does fade and discolour eventually, radiator paint does not and resists yellowing, and is tough heat resistant.

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 03-15-2002 04:45 PM

Speaking of finishes, Starret Machinists Tools still use the same kind of finishes as found on these projectors (both wrinkle finish and that heavy thick enamel)

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-18-2002 04:45 PM

Another topic back from the dead

! I am currently working on a pair of Supers and SH1000s that I recently rescued from the trash. Anyhow, they would definately look beter repainted but I am kind of partial to preserving the origonal finishes as they show the machines history.

Anyhow, Bernard Tonks spoke about how white paint tends to yellow over time. Well, through an accidental experiment I found a cure !
Soft Scrub w/Bleach tm got rid of the yellow and brought back the white D!!

As I have said before, it is imperative to halt corrosion when washing off castings. I do this by using only hot tap water, a metal etchant such as Jasco, a through and immediate drying and immediate application of a light sewing machine oil on all machined surfaces.

The only problem I have encountered when washing off castings that are wrinkle finished is that the finish does tend to discolor somewhat after drying. Does anyone know what this is about?

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Jeff Stricker
Master Film Handler

Posts: 481
From: Calumet, Mi USA
Registered: Nov 1999

posted 04-19-2002 08:17 PM

Will, Based on my cleaning up of many vintage wrinkle finished radio receivers and a couple three projectors, I think the discoloration after washing is none other than many years of accumulated cigarette smoke.

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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999

posted 04-20-2002 01:18 AM

Yup, I can still hear the words "Honey, wanna take the sound-head out of the oven so I can do the roast?"

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-20-2002 02:08 PM

Back to the top...again. I have never used it and do not know the quality, but check out #3370 Krylon Jet Black Wrinkle Finish.

Ace Hardware brand Zinc Chromate Primer #17148. Zinc Chromate Primer is nasty stuff...just like Mark said, and needs to be used as prep for all NON Ferrous metals.

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