What do you mean?

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As mentioned in my posting, the 88dB SPL is meant to get him in the correct range and to get him by until a subwoofer adjustment with a RTA can be done.

Karen at DTS

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Ok, thanks. I didn't caught the meaning of 88!!

Gordon,

Very clear. How can I know how my meter measure the current? My DTS6 come back from DTS UK few months ago and my meter read exactly "300mV" on the outputs. Can I assume that it reads RMS correctly?

John,

Very interesting links, I'll study them deeply.

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A tech told me that he is not convinced bout the 300mV procedure because the meters are set to read 50Hz tension while the DTS test tones are at 1000Hz or 30Hz.

How can I reply?

Karen,

Just a curiosity: why on older empirical test list I read "1 Khz at reference level (250mV)"?

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I just tried with my meter. I've connected the meter to my SB live! output and I generated a 1000Hz tone. I've set the volume so the meter was at 300mV.

I switch to 30Hz tone, same level. Meter says 650mV.

I'm going to check our DTS6D with the "tone way". Are you sure that it is a correct procedure?

All DTS output levels should be adjusted to 300mV RMS. With the DS3 disc, use the tones: 1kHz for screen and surround channels, and 30/40Hz for the subwoofer.

Thanks for your reply. You already explained the procedure to me. I just want to know how to reply to our tech.

I've already shown your e.mail to him, he is collecting information about this because he really was not informed about the 10dB in-band gain of the subwoofer via RTA and the 1kHz/40Hz tone for DTS.

The old level setting of 250mV was chosen at the time as a preliminary setting so that when the unit was installed and a setup disc played, sound would be heard. As mentioned in the manual, that level would not over drive speakers and we asked people to complete the level adjustments using a setup disc and SPL meter.

Things have changed and we now ask theaters to setup our players to the cinema processor line level which in most cases is 300mV. This will ensure equal SPL playback in digital and analog.

Here's an update:

Both DTS-6 players are working fine; there's nothing wrong with any of the boards (although they probably don't have the latest firmware).

I now have much more satisfying levels after "dialing up" 300mV by using the DS3 disk and the JM21 breakout board, as described in previous posts.

Karen's notes were helpful in determining once-and-for-all that a reader had faded.

Once again, my thanks to all.

"I love it when a plan comes together."

Glad to hear things worked out for you! Please do not besitate to contact me at any time when you have a DTS question.