I would just tape the heads and tails back on but, people dont like that for some reason. I have the same logic that most theatres are building up to platter anyways, not reeel to reel.

Try splicing the heads and tails on one side only.
If you do it on both sides the slacker at the next theatre might just cut that additional frame off so he doesnt have to peel the tape.
If you do it on one side only, it lessens this chance.
Some slackers will still cut it off and leave that frame dangling by that single sided splice, but many of them will probably peel it off since it will be super easy.
Even if they leave that splicing tape on the head or tail, its still better than cutting off that frame.

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It's a matter of weighing the risk of a film jam or fold-up if someone does try to put a single-sided splice through the projector, versus the ease in peeling off the leader splices without losing frames and continuity. If we assume a higher level of competence in someone doing changeovers, it is likely they would remake the leader tape splices properly (to double-sided splices) during print inspection before projection.

I agree with you, that only high quality clear splicing tape should be used, with the leaders spliced on in-frame.

NEVER return a print with the leaders unattached, or just haphazardly taped on. Always replace the cardboard bands if you have them.

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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
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As for those reel bands. On our print of Deeds, the string was NOT wrapped around the rivets, but was stuck under labels which were pasted directly OVER the rivets. STOOPID! AT least they are using bands with better quality string now.

removing splice tape v. removing the blue masking tape: The splicing tape that i have to use never comes off in one piece, which requires several passes to remove it all, and the excess handling can not be better for that last frame than removing the blue tape. Its not a matter of being lazy by any means (as anyone who has ever worked with me knows full well), but I honestly feel that its the best solution to preserve the film, given what i have to work with. If i had better tape, splicers that cleanly punched out the chads, and permission from the payroll people to spend more time on it, I would. I'm already pushing the clock as far as i can as it is and frequently do things pro bono just because its the right thing to do.

John P. said:

quote:

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If we assume a higher level of competence in someone doing changeovers, it is likely they would remake the leader tape splices properly (to double-sided splices) during print inspection before projection.

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if the changeover projectionists are going to remake the splice anyway, how is not remaking the leader splice a poor choice? When you consider the fact that platter projctionists would be undoing the splice the former is a cleaner process than the latter. (not saying that removing splicing tape causes damage, but the potential is higher)

Steve K. said

quote:

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at least insofar as the most important aspect which is that it is runnable, given that a single sided splice will go through most machines just fine

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As a platter projectionist, i would consider a full reel with attatched heads and tails to be not runnable.
Perhaps I've just been mislead in the ratio of platter systems to changeover systems in use. If i'm told that most second run theaters use changeovers, then i'll change my practice tomorrow. I don't need an excuse to be lazy, the booth that i have to run is excuse enough if i wanted an excuse. I use super platters for goodness sake!

-adam

Neumade tape should be mandatory. If you don't have Neumade tape, I would rather see someone lay a piece of white Artist's tape across the splicing block and punch it to make a single sided splice to return. It may sound crazy, but it's no joke. A splice made with Artist's tape works quite wonderfully, and unlike all non-Neumade tape, peels off effortlessly.

Just don't confuse the Artist's tape recommendation to mean that I am saying it is ok to place a strip lengthwise to join the ends. I mean the tape should go ACROSS the film just like splicing tape from a roll wound, and then the perforations punched with a splicer. Single-sided only, of course.

Platter operation requires a single strand. Therefore any print that comes broken into 20 minute reels is by definition unrunnable. And I doubt you'd be too happy if I sent you a print that had no leaders or identification at all.

If you detect a note of resentment on my part regarding what (many) platter people do to prints you'd be correct. The fact is that a considerable part of my work is necessitated by the existance of platters and the lazy people who often operate them.

Movies come on 20 minute reels; I run 20 minute reels. In theory I ought to be able to run shows and never go near a splicer. Hypothetically I shouldn't even need to inspect a print. That's true only when the print hasn't been in the hands of the platter people.

However, as of this comming tuesday night, consider me a single-splicing convert. The twist and peel method of removal never occured to me, and i'd rather take that over the masking tape. I'll see how my tape holds up and will look into getting Neumade tape asap.

-adam

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