Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: What was that paint again... (Projector Rebuild)

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Topic: What was that paint again... (Projector Rebuild)

Randy Loy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156

Registered: Aug 1999

posted 08-29-2002 08:35 AM

Will, you beat me to the punch when you mentioned the need for a primer. That was the very question I planned to ask on this forum this morning.

For purposes of clarification, by "non-ferrous" do you mean parts other than the iron castings? In other words, I'm trying to figure out what type of primer I will need to use for the casting that I will paint with the Hammerite white radiator paint that Bernard suggested. I'm guessing that it is iron. I'm assuming that the covers are also iron?

By the way Barry, your XL looks almost as rough as my Standard. Maybe I can help you rebuild it someday. I'm getting real good at taking things apart. I'll just need to have somebody around to tell me where all those parts go when it's time to reassemble!

Actually, I'm finding that the whole system of gears and shafts makes a lot of sense. I'm learning a great deal during the process. I appreciate everybody's help and direction.

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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-29-2002 09:13 AM

OK Randy.... you can help me rebuild it. You've got from now until April 4th, 2003.

It has to work that night no matter what!!

------------------
Barry Floyd
Floyd Entertainment Group
Lebanon, Tennessee

Stardust Drive-In Theatre
Watertown, Tennessee

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Randy Loy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156

Registered: Aug 1999

posted 08-29-2002 12:01 PM

Okay Barry. I'll also bring along our Simplex SPS portable in case on opening night we can't figure out what to do with all the parts left over from your XL.

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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-29-2002 01:16 PM

If that doesn't work, you can help me carry the Brenkert in the lobby up the stairs to the booth!

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John Schulien
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 206
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Registered: Nov 1999

posted 08-29-2002 01:27 PM

Whenever I dismantle something as complex as a projector, I clear my 3x8 foot workbench, and cover it with a large piece of butcher paper. Then, each time I remove a part, I set it down on the paper, write down, on the paper next to the part, exactly what it is and where it goes, and draw a square around the description and part. I try and keep related parts grouped together.

That way I have no problem putting things back together.

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Richard Fowler
Film God

Posts: 2392
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 08-29-2002 05:16 PM

Our shop tech usually works on 4 to 6 machines at a time on one bench with all the parts separated by plastic tote bins for each machine.....but then again he has been doing this for 22 years

Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com

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Dick Prather
Master Film Handler

Posts: 259
From: Portland, OR, USA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 08-30-2002 12:39 AM

I like to put the same parts back in the same machine. The machines seem to work better that way or at least I have had fewer problems using that method. I use some used stainless steel cooking pans for all the used parts as I remove them from each machine. The pans have handles and can be moved around very quickly and are easy to clean. One pan for each machine. I note the serial number on each pan and can now clean several main frames to get them ready. The process is probably slower then most but I like quality over quanity. It has worked for me for the last 15+ years. Unless the machine has been abused they look almost new after rebuilding.

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William Hooper
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1879
From: Mobile, AL USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-30-2002 12:48 AM

If it's something with billions of parts like a theater organ or automobile, I like those clear flat K-Mart/Wal-Mart plastic fishing lure boxes that are about 14" x 9" x 2" with movable plastic dividers to adjust the sizes of the compartments. Each compartment can be labelled as to what that goofy little bent brass washer or whatever came from. When you come back to it after X amount of time, there's still no problem as to identifying what's what.

They're also great for organizing & storing the enormous store of general screws, bolts, washers, electrical crimp connectors, etc. kept on the shelves for general use. Plus, if you need to take the collection of various stainless bolts & washers somewhere, just grab those boxes & go.

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Bernard Tonks
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 619
From: Cranleigh, Surrey, England
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-30-2002 05:31 AM

Will wrote,

quote:
When using zinc primers, only a very light coat is needed. Also pay strong attention to your brand of paint's instructions. Many of todays paints are not meant for numerous coats as they might not be able to vapor vent and will not cure! Also, if your manufacturer says to wait a given period of time between coats, then do it...or unwanted things can happen!

Good points. I did my painting during a hot spell when the climate was around 80 f. I seem to remember that the Hammerite Enamel radiator white gloss dried within 30 minutes, I allowed one hour then did the 2nd coat, and the same for the 3rd coat. If you leave any coating longer than two hours, you then have to wait six weeks until you can commence painting again because of curing! That will give Randy some idea until he can read the Hammerite instructions for himself.

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Randy Loy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156

Registered: Aug 1999

posted 08-30-2002 02:16 PM

Since Bernard provided a link for MASTERCHEM, the supplier of Hammerite paint here on this side of the pond, I was able to check out their website and give them a call to find out who might be a local retailer for them in my area. They gave me a number of suggestions, my local True Value hardware store for one, and even gave me the phone number of a company that can ship me the products I need via UPS. Thanks Bernard! Hammerite it will be!!!

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 08-30-2002 04:04 PM

Randy...

Non-ferrous....non iron parts such as aluminum and the die-cast "pot-metal" parts such as the projector housings/doors.

Another good thing to do would be to prep your parts with an auto-body prep/etchant such as Jasco or Dupont. Really be careful with this stuff as it is a very light sulfuric acid soulution that does smell.

As for primers on ferrous parts...you may want to try an etchant primer.

Another good point to try is once you start buying your paints...stick with the same brands. Do not mix different brands of primers and paints, otherwise you do stand the risk of funny things happening.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-30-2002 04:29 PM

Richard,
I did rebuilds the same way your tech does them. I striped down 6 or more machines at once but also labeled the plastic bins with the main casting S/N. This way the parts went back to the same machine. I also used a dunk strip place so I didn't have to endure the long hours of paint stripping. If they were getting a Kelmar turrett the casting was cut for the turrett before the paint job. Before I refinished an alumnium casting of any sort I sprayed it with one coat of zinc oxide primer. Then I used an industrial Gray Hammertone finish that had to be baked on for the paint to cure. This was a VERY durable finish and was as shiny as a new baby's butt when it came out of the oven. The paint was in fact made by Durable Coatings in Chicago and the Zinc Oxide was juat an aircraft type primer. The primer was more expensive per gallon than the Hammertone was.
Mark

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