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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Vertical shaking in Ballantyne Pro 35
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler
Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 10-07-2002 01:11 PM
Jon et al;This is the first I've heard of micro-cracks in the coupler bobbin assemblies -- the nylon piece that is actually inside the coupler assembly. I'll investigate but hopefully I would have heard of something like that before now. Those are a part we get from LaVezzi and their stuff is usually dead on right. I assume the problem pieces were returned. What time frame was this? We build several versions of machines for Disney. One is a "Solid-Shaft" Ballantyne that eliminates the coupler -- therefore it's a non-framing mechanism, great for continuous, heavy-duty endless-loop use that Disney does. We build framing types for them as well. The improved coupler was our design to improve performance. The splines of the coupler are elongated so there's a larger mating area of the nylon bobbin to the two shafts. Performance is much improved, but framing is limited to less than two perforations, as I remember. The performance is worth that problem in a well-run theatre where framing should hardly be an issue. 3951 is the standard bobbin in the 62-31-59 Coupler Assembly.
3951-1 is the heavier bobbin used in a 2260675 Coupler Assembly. Hope this helps... Pat
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Don Sneed
Master Film Handler
Posts: 451
From: Texas City, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 10-07-2002 09:41 PM
Jon, that crack you saw do not mean a thing, I serviced & rebuild countless number of Ballantyne Pro-35, the coupler spline cracks or broken plastic inside the coupler don't matter, it is very thin, the thing to look for is the little round plastic on the ends of the spline that goes around the spline to secure it, if they are missing the coupler will cause a jump...I make a habit to watch my oil for any gear pieces or these small white pieces as I drain the oil...if you see anything in the oil, start looking at the spline, intermittent gear & shutter gear....If you replace just the spline, be sure to notice the indention spot on the spline & put the new one in the same way, after I rebuild the coupler I also seat the coupler to the intermittent & sprocket shaft a few times before installing the assy. this will help you to easy install it without damaging the new coupler which is easy to do...I don't worry about the broken or cracked thin plastic on the spline, I gotten new ones from Strong this way, the important thing is the several small white thingly that holds the plastic spline to the metal...one thing I learned in the 22-years of service work, on a Pro-35 the damage comes from excessive framing, this wears out the intermittent & coupler...learn or have all the projectionist to frame the film in frame without using the framing handle...you will get years of life out of these two parts...I use to cuss these machines until I learn I can make a lot of money repairing these machines...now I love them....Thanks Mr. Ballantyne !! All joking aside...these machines are good if you listen to what have been said in these post...the Pro-35 has 5-problems that alway comes up every couple of years, once you know what to look for & their cure, these machines will run & run...I have machines I service for over 20-years, replaced the intermittent & coupler (spline) due to the projectionists will not thread the machine in frame, I have a 6-plex with these machines, the projectionist threads in frame every time, I only replaced these two parts twice in 20 years....Good Luck....
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