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This topic comprises 6 pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6
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Author
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Topic: strong platters
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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 11-06-2002 04:30 PM
Wes said, regarding the AW-1 platter......... "The only thing I worry about are that the other three motors have severly worn commutators and will soon fail." Are we talking about the same platter? Mine is a three deck, and only has 3 motors. With my unit, the make-up table must remain plugged into the column the entire time, as the MUT provides the electrical power for the entire thing. The MUT is a really ugly molded fiberglass thing, with a horizontal rewind-plate (look's alot like a turntable). Unless yours is a five-deck... I can figure out where your 4th motor would be? ------------------ Barry Floyd Floyd Entertainment Group Lebanon, Tennessee Stardust Drive-In Theatre Watertown, Tennessee
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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 11-13-2002 04:44 PM
Brad,New production of the Kinoton platter will have adjustable angle rollers top and bottom. A Kelmar cleaner bracket is being considered, but as these can easily be mounted atop the projector it is not a priority. The idea of a latch at the inlet to the IR sensor is mysterious. I don't know what you mean by a "outward center drop". Please explain, as I've never heard of this request, or any other platter with such a feature. That said, creating such a thing would be really easy on our design. ------------------ Larry Shaw Kinoton America [Exclusive North American Distributor of Kinoton GmbH] 8 Goodenough Street Boston, MA 02135-1903 Tel: 617-562-0003 x104 Fax: 617-787-4253 E-Mail: larry@kinotonamerica.com Website:http://www.kinotonamerica.com
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David Kilderry
Master Film Handler

Posts: 355
From: Melbourne Australia
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 11-26-2002 06:20 AM
Kinoton platters for me, hands down. Others are competent, CNR 335, LP 270, AW3, some very ordinary ORC, Eprad.
The original Philips platter won an Oscar and now the Kinoton range (who took over manufacture from Philips) is very little changed, because it was right the first time. Simple, tough, yet built with precision and a make-up table that sits solid, is made of steel and winds film with confidence.
David
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-13-2004 02:04 AM
I had a microswitch fail today in an A-3. Big deal. They will fail. However, I think they fail for several basic reasons:
1. There is no shunt resistor across the microswitch contacts like the old CFS platters had. The old CFS platters used a Radio Shack microswith, and the switches lasted for years - as long as the resistors didn't burn out. 2. Insufficient inattention to insignificant minor details, like raising the elevator before turning off the platter mode switches, especially the pay-out. If the pay-out arm happens to be sitting in the "on" position like you might see in a severly off-level platter, kiss that switch good buy in a very short time especially if there is no ballast resistor like CFS used.
3. There is no bypass capacitor around the switch contacts. OK - what does that do? It supresses the arc on the switch when it opens. If the capacitive reactance is equal to inductive reactance of the motor, under normal conditions it will not arc, or if it did the arcing would me very slight. Nothing is perfect.
It is like a condenser in an old car distributor. It tunes the system to a series resonant circuit, and the circuit is then resistive - not inductive or capacitive. In the present microswitch setup like the A-3 has, the circuit is inductive.
Another comparison is if the buffer capacitors were shot in your old vacuum tube car radio, that radio will go through vibrators like crap through a goose. That's also why you may have seen some premature breaker point failures in automotive igintion systems. The condenser flaked out and ruined the points.
OK - if there is a arc-off build up on the points (or in this case the micro switch contacts), the build up will occur on one point, and a depression will occur on the other. Now which one is responsibe for what? That's what I forgot.
But I do know....if the circuit is inductive, the build up and depression will be on the opposite contact of the points than it would if the circuit is capacitive. Initially, what contact the build-up is depends on the polarity applied to the contacts. As most of you know, the platter drive motors of the A-3 run on unfiltered DC.
So, if Capacitive Reactance is equal to Inductive Reactance, the circuit will appear resistive and the points will last much longer than running them without some kind of arc suppression.
I smashed that microswitch with a hammer to inspect the points. here is what I saw:

This microswitch has seen an inductive load too often.
Notice the build-up on the contact circled in red. The surface of the contact circled in green does not show this type of build-up.
If the two wires were switched, the build-up would have been on the bottom contact instead of the top.
Some fixes are:
1. RTFM before you attempt to run your machine. 2. Put a ballast resistor across the contacts. The size (if I recall correctly) is 2 ohms 10-watt wire wound. That'll really increase the life of your micros. There is plenty of room to stuff a barrier strip and a resistor in the platter arm. 3. Experminent with various sizes of capacitors and an alligator clip or something to see what spark is minimal under normal conditions. BUT BE CAREFUL....THAT VOLTAGE WITH REFERENCE TO GROUND CAN GET UPWARDS TO 80 VOLTS OR BETTER, AND THAT IS SUFFICIENT TO KNOCK YOU ON YOUR BUTT!!!!
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