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Author Topic: Strong Alpha Platter Motor Dustin Mitchell Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1865 From: Mondovi, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 11-14-2002 12:38 AM                     By plugging the motor in though I run into the same problem. I think what Paul is suggesting is that I 'hot wire' the motor to bypass the bad diode.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 11-14-2002 12:52 AM                     Exactly. Use a jumper clip to bypass the diode. Since that motor is an AC/DC motor, you can also power it up with a car battery, and it'll run - but not very fast. It is a good way to check the integrety of the motor. If you want to try Daryl's method, you can...but be VERY careful. If the motor field or armature is shorted, you could damage the variac in the MUT if you gave the motor "too much balls". That's why I didn't suggest it.  |  IP: Logged Daryl C. W. O'Shea Film God Posts: 3977 From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from) Registered: Jun 2002 posted 11-14-2002 01:04 AM                        Yeah, I was just eating my dinner now and realized I had a bit of a brain gap there. Totally forgot about the variac in the table. How I don't know. If you have the ability to directly wire the motor go for it, if you're stuck (and you've got a spare MUT) try the MUT.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 11-14-2002 01:19 AM                     Been there, Daryl....I have had brain gaps, too...more than once!  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-14-2002 01:25 AM                     Dustin: I have forwarded the photos and info to you via email.  |  IP: Logged Dustin Mitchell Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1865 From: Mondovi, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 11-14-2002 01:52 AM                     Thank you very much Ken. Overall this has turned out very well, I should be able to have this deck going in time for Harry Potter.  |  IP: Logged Lance C. McFetridge Expert Film Handler Posts: 135 From: Penn Yan, New York Registered: Jul 99 posted 11-14-2002 06:52 AM                     Hi, Would the part number for the grainger motor be the same for a Potts 3 Alpha? I see where they list several models. Do the Strong and the Potts use the same motor? thanks lance  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-14-2002 08:47 AM                     Lance: Yes, the same Grainger motor 2M262 is used on Potts and Strong.  |  IP: Logged Lance C. McFetridge Expert Film Handler Posts: 135 From: Penn Yan, New York Registered: Jul 99 posted 11-14-2002 09:10 AM                     Thanks Ken, I appreciate the help. lance  |  IP: Logged Pat Moore Master Film Handler Posts: 363 Registered: Mar 2000 posted 11-14-2002 09:27 AM                     I'm pretty sure Ken knows more on the platter than most, so trust him. Makes me miss the Northwest at times... Pat  |  IP: Logged Dustin Mitchell Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1865 From: Mondovi, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 11-14-2002 10:52 AM                     Ok, I'm stumped. How the hell do you replace the diode? Everything seems to be in the way and I can't figure out how to get it out of there.  |  IP: Logged Dustin Mitchell Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1865 From: Mondovi, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 11-14-2002 12:07 PM                     Just for clarification sake, Dan was always available to take my questions. I didn't post this on Film-Tech because he is a poor tech or hard to get a hold of, in fact the exact opposite is true, he is very knowledgable and thorough tech and available via cell phone at a moments notice. The reason I posted this here is because it is easier for me to follow instructions when they are written. Posting on this board also enables me to see pictures and diagrams of how things should be done. I just thought doing it this way would be easier. Just to clarify.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-14-2002 05:32 PM                     I've always used a small ignition wrench set (from SEARS) to unbolt the diode and of course a soldering iron and solder sucker. If it's too cramped for you work in the motor shell then carefully drill out the pop rivet that attaches the plastic L-bracket that holds the diode.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 11-14-2002 06:43 PM                     Be sure to use the new mica insulators and the new plastic spacer, too if the "L" bracket is made of metal. You certainly do not want any part of that diode case referenced to ground. Ken, is that bracket plastic or metal?  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-15-2002 12:32 AM                     Paul: All the diode brackets I have seen have been made of a piece of ABS plastic formed into an "L" shape.  |  IP: Logged

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