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Author Topic: Millenium with a noisy HDS bearing Rick Long Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 759 From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 1999 posted 01-24-2003 09:38 AM                     My present bearing supplier is selling only bearings with both sides shielded with instructions to use a small-blade screwdriver to remove unwanted shields. Is this standard practice nowadays or should I start looking for another supplier?  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-24-2003 10:18 AM                     Yea, Rick, that is ok. Some bearings, especially the ones with rubber seals only come with them on both sodes. If you are neasy about pulling off one of the seals have them do it. Mark @ CLACO www.clacoequpment.com  |  IP: Logged Rick Long Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 759 From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 1999 posted 01-24-2003 04:32 PM                     Actually, I have been doing it for some time, especially with replacement bearings for the 5-star sound-drum. I just wondered if I was paying for a more expensive bearing than i really need.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-24-2003 04:38 PM                     Rick, The cost should be about a dollar difference. Mark  |  IP: Logged Randy Bowden Expert Film Handler Posts: 146 From: Portland, OR, USA Registered: Aug 2000 posted 01-24-2003 05:30 PM                     Mark, I like your idea about the rubber seal bearing in the Simplex Head. I have been doing the same thing in my Gear Box rebuilds. both the RCA and Simplex Call for a 6202 bearing, I buy the rubber sheild version, and pull of the side facing the oil bath. As far as simplex main drives are concerned I was always under the impression that the bearings should slip fit to allow for spring loading. I have done well over 50 simplex projector head rebuilds and it seem to be hit or miss on this issue. Most of the old black XL machines require a little honing on my part to get the proper slip fit. While the light blue version tend to need no work at all. You should be able to push on the main drive shaft and have it spring back.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-24-2003 05:44 PM                     Randy, You are exactly right....it is very hit and miss. Not sure what was happenning on the old ones. I use a brake cylinder hone to lap them out so you barely have a slip fit. I sometimes wonder if the older oils were somewhat acedic and caused a reaction in the bore between the steel race and the alumnium casting. Anyway, the brake cylinder hone works well but do it by hand only, it does not usually need but to be cleaned up a tad!! Here is a link to a Barden write up that explains the whys and hows of preloading a bearing. http://www.bardenbearings.com/PDF%20CD/PB11.PDF Mark @ CLACO www.clacoequipment.com  |  IP: Logged Jean-Michel Grin Expert Film Handler Posts: 222 From: Geneva & Lausanne, Switzerland Registered: Jul 2002 posted 01-25-2003 04:47 PM                        Mark, I got the same problem of oil spilling on the horizontal main drive shaft on a Simplex 1050 I want to replace the two balls bearing by rubber shielded models. My question are: How can I do to remove these bearings ? I have the idea there muss be maintened by a sealant (i.e. Loctite). Should de main vertical shaft assembly really removed to access the horizontal main shaft ? Another problem: I have to replace the sleeve bearing on the uper feed sprocket assembly, for the same problem of oil spiling, on the same projector. But is impossible to remove them. I't seems to me that these sleeve bearing are tight glued, do you have an idea to remove these parts ? Any help will welcome, and accept my apologyses for my really weak English Bye, Jean-Michel  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-25-2003 11:31 PM                     Hi Jean Michael, Does this Simplex 1050 have the main shaft seal where the drive pulley/gear is attached? I suspect that it does not. However, if you find that it does then you need to completely replace it because it is worn out. Also, just order the new entire seal kit that Strong sells to do this job. The new seal kit will have everything that you need to do the job. Perhaps Pat Moore can pipe in with the part number on that one.... Specify what type of sound reproducer and pulley type when you order the kit....or you might not get the correct type pulley. There are two pulley possibilities....the round tooth metric type, or the XL pitch type, or if you have an older sound reproducer that has a gear box drive, then there would be a gear instead of a pulley. Replacing the bearings should be pretty straight foreword to do. Some people do use a sealent on the gaskets on the film side bearing retainer(P-1547) and drive side bearing retainer(P-1548). This can make removal of these a bit tricky. Using a sharp edge under the edge of the bearing retainer will usually pop them free. If you use Strong's gaskets to replace them don't worry about sealent as they seal really well. Just be sure the sealing surface is spotlessly clean!! Take a look at the main drive shaft exploded view in the Simplex X-L manual(1960 version) to see how this is put together and you will see how it goes in there......use a seal driver, or something equal to the outer diameter of the bearing to tap them out of the bore if necessary. Never tap or push on the inner race of any bearing. You will ruin it instantly! Clean the bores very good and put some oil in them, then re-assemble in the reverse order with the new seal kit. Keep in mind that a little seepage from a Simplex is normal....rarely will you ever see one that does not leak at all. I have to say that Strong has done an excellent job to diminish the leaks down to a drop or two now and then. The main castings are also of far higher quality than they have ever been and are not so porus as to allow oil to seep right through the alumnium. The Powder coat finish also helps seal the main casting really well. As to the upper sprocket dripping at the bushing.....I have had this happen only a couple of times in past years. Its possible that the felt plug (P2891) has come out and the upper sprocket assy. is getting too much oil into it. This would cause excess oil to seep past the shaft. Also, there is an oil drail hole below this assembley on the gear side that might be plugged. Check all this out before you tear it apart. It is possible that the bushings are worn, but this is also rare. They have to be pressed out and new bushings pressed in place very accurately so they protrude the same amount as the old bearings did. I suppose they could be installed on the projector too. Tapping the old bushings out, and then squeezing the new in place with a bolt with washer at each end to protect the face of the bushings. It might be difficult to get them aligned just right though. If you remove any of the sprocket assembleys to work on them be sure to use a new gasket when you re-install them. You will also have to set the gear mesh....so pay attention to what it was so you can get it pretty close to the original clearance. Hope all this helps out..... Its not really that hard to work on them...just think it through before you actually do the work and be sure to have all necesary parts at hand. Mark @ CLACO www.clacoequipment.com  |  IP: Logged Jean-Michel Grin Expert Film Handler Posts: 222 From: Geneva & Lausanne, Switzerland Registered: Jul 2002 posted 01-26-2003 02:10 AM                        Mark, Thanks for you help, But I have an another question: Do you know if the bearings on the horizontal main drive shaft, are "standard" models, i mean that easy alvaible on local European market, or if they are specialy designed by Strong-Simplex for this projector ? Another question: The felt plug (P-2891) what kind of material is ? I wanted to make a probe with another material before order it. I was surprised that this felt plus can be ordered, In the first issue of the part list, this plug don't was alvaible. I hope that the ball bearing are not glued on the casting ! I replaced 2 times the oil seal and the problem still the same... Wish me good luck to do this job ! Bye, and thanks for your help  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-26-2003 11:20 AM                     If you've already replaced the seal then its leaking someplace else in the general vicinity, or perhaps fomr the oil gauge....especially if it is the front mounted type. Is the seal you replaced glued into the bearing retainer, or pressed in? Some of the older type were glued in place anbd rarely work at all. Thats why I reccommended getting the entire seal kit from Strong. The new type is pressed into the retainer and allows for almost perfect alignment. Another thing to check is the hub of the pulley that it seals to. If there is a groove in it then it also has to be replaced....it will simply tear up the new seal in a short time. You cannot offset the hub fomr the seal to effect a new sealing location either....has to be replaced. The bearings are very common, but the rubber seal variety will not help to keep oil from leaking out. There are sometimes oil drain passages in the bottom of that gear side bearing bore....Its the main shaft seal that keeps the oil in the machine. The rubber sealed bearing does help keep gunk from a failed shaft seal, and belt black crap from getting into the bearing and oil. Thats the only real reason to use a rubber sealed bearing there. I would go take some pics, but lost my battery charger for my Kodak Digital camera........will try another route though so you can see what I mean.... Mark  |  IP: Logged

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