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Author Topic: Dark Picture Mark J. Marshall Film God Posts: 3188 From: New Castle, DE, USA Registered: Aug 2002 posted 03-06-2003 11:23 AM                    We have a changeover that doesn't open all the way sometimes. The result is a shadow on the bottom of the screen.  |  IP: Logged Joe Morris Film Handler Posts: 35 From: Papillion, NE, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 03-06-2003 12:52 PM                     okay, it's the fire shutter, now how do i fix it on a Monee Universal MSP??  |  IP: Logged Daryl C. W. O'Shea Film God Posts: 3977 From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from) Registered: Jun 2002 posted 03-06-2003 06:22 PM                        My quick and dirty adjustment is an elastic band to hold it up. There is a way to adjust it though, but having never used a Monee I don't know. Usually it is as simple as turning a screw on the fire shutter unit. If you have a manual for it, it'll surely tell you how. Otherwise, Rick will know how.  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 03-06-2003 09:22 PM                     Do you NEED the fire shutter? You have a console dowser on the lamphouse, no? The projector has a changeover dowser, no? The fire shutter is a vestigial part unless you run nitrate. or If you have a "hot" lamphouse and would like to use it to prevent the film from melting so badly that's another reason to keep it. You have a CFS, though. They're not known for their ability to burn film quickly. If your booth isn't nitrate-safe you don't technically need it. If you're trying to keep your projector in as close to original condition as possible you may want to leave it in. You could carefully remove it and just save all the parts.  |  IP: Logged Joe Morris Film Handler Posts: 35 From: Papillion, NE, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 03-08-2003 12:04 AM                     thanks guys, I checked on one of my other projectors to see what i was missing. of course, on that particular projector...it was the fire shutter. so naturally checking the other 6 projectors, i figured out there's a stupid set screw that slipped down the vertical main drive shaft. thanks for all the help guys!  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 03-08-2003 09:55 AM                     Randy, Just because one doesn't NEED (as a matter of law) a fire shutter doesn't mean they are not a good idea. The concept is simple, if the projector is not running fast enough, the film is not exposed to the light/heat source. They are a good idea. A machine that has a sloppy fire shutter often is sloppy though and through. Given a choice, I'll always take a machine with a fire shutter over one without. Steve  |  IP: Logged Joe Morris Film Handler Posts: 35 From: Papillion, NE, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 03-08-2003 04:09 PM                     Thanks steve. This projector actually does run slower than the others...so it's probably a good idea that I put it back.....that and the owner might not be to happy with extra parts laying around...  |  IP: Logged System Notices Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi Posts: 215 Registered: Apr 2004 posted 04-06-2005 03:40 PM                 It has been 759 days since the last post.  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: California, U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 04-06-2005 03:40 PM                     What can be done however about a changeover douser on a Century that doesn't lift completely up and out of the way? I've currently got this issue on one of my machines. It's a Century SAW outfitted with a Kelmar electric changeover. If I lift the douser by the pushrod or tie rod just slightly, not like the changeover is sticking, but just enough to take up the play in the linkage it clears up but because it's just a slight mechanical play it's not going to stay up. The only thing I could think of is moving shortening the tie rod by about 1/32" or some small ammount and moving the douser up just slightly on it (the tie rod comes all the way down to the back of the douser as it is) but then that could possibly lead to light bleeding through into the gate before the douser is open. Advice? Did I miss the obvious answer?  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 04-06-2005 06:16 PM                        If you inspect the bellcrank (the triangle that converts lateral motion to up/down motion), you might discover another hole that is a better match for the actuator wire. This will result in more travel which, with adjustment of the blade/actuator wire, will translate into proper operation. The Kelmar changeovers have always worked well on the machines for which they were made. Occasionally a force-fit works less well. Louis  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-06-2005 08:22 PM                     Actually there have recently been some issues with certain runs of brand new out of the box Kelmar C/O's. If you get one that seems to have sticky armatures over in their travel it is because the two coils are not quite in line.... they are just a tad bit offset from each other because the mounting holes are not machined quite correct. If you encounter this problem take it apart and grind flats along both sides of both armatures. This will allow plenty of side clearance so there is no sticking of the armatures in the bore of the coils. Mark  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: California, U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 04-07-2005 02:20 PM                     I dont' think it's the coils for the fact that, when I pick up the douser by hand after it's opened all I'm taking up is a very small amount of play, the pushrod moves all the way back just fine. I'll have to check the bellcrank, I was sure I moved it to the furthest hole. If I didn't then once again I ask the stupid question Thanks guys.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 04-07-2005 08:29 PM                        There are no stupid questions! Answers, maybe.....  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: California, U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 04-09-2005 04:56 AM                     Well, in the end it turned out that this one WASN'T set to the last hole on the converter dealie. Trouble was, moving it there put the tie rod at such an angle that it would bind against the projector casing. In the end I used my pliers and bent the end of it slightly, this allowed free movement through the projector, of course now the issue was that it still wasn't perfect, the douser would drag on the guides. So after a little fiddling I ended up shifting the rear end of the changeover slightly out of line and it did the trick.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 04-09-2005 07:45 AM                        Sounds like you may have an earlier vintage douser blade where the connection point is rigidly attached. Newer ones swivel slightly which usually solves the interference between the casting and the rod. Another problem with the old setup was that the blade sometimes would bind in the channel. Your "fix" sounds good to me. Louis  |  IP: Logged

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