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This topic comprises 4 pages: 1 2 3 4
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Author
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Topic: Mark that Frame Knob
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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 03-30-2003 01:06 PM
What do you do with a projector that doesn`t have a frame knob? Like the Kinoton FP30E, it has two buttons for up and down since the intermittent is controlled electronically. Those buttons micro-adjust the sprocket in both directions and there is no centered position. You can slowly turn the sprocket in either direction forever if you want. Sure, you could always disconnect these buttons, but why downgrade the functionality of your equipment to make up for incompetent operators?
To make threading easier, we have always used leaders of clear film with thin CS-style frame lines. You can see the aperture plate very well through the frames and see if the framing is OK. Many use old trailers as framing leaders. It is much more difficult to see what you are doing. This is also why we always use preconfigured leaders with attached sound trailers and company logos. They are never taken apart, only spliced on to the feature, to minimise the risk of splices out of frame.
I always insist that the people I train check the entire film path from platter to projector and back step by step. The film has to sit perfectly on all rollers and sprockets, it has to enter the projector the right way around (sound track outwards), and of course the framing has to be checked while advancing a few frames. The FP30E has the advancing button on the front. I usually glue a little round felt pad on it so operators can easily find it even in the dark. I have always insisted that this routine is adhered to for every single show every time. Even if time is pressing, it only takes a few moments and avoids bigger problems which will take much longer to solve. Because if the film is not framed correctly and checked afterwards, chances are very good that it is also scratching somewhere and there is no knob to remove scratches from the film...
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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 03-30-2003 04:18 PM
You can get a very steady picture with a FP30E. Maybe there was a problem with the print or the projector wasn`t maintained very well. There is a software to calibrate the image steadiness of the FP30E which works very well. I have worked with dozens of them, and I have to say they it is my favourite projector, even though the electronic sprocket is a bit sensitive sometimes. Because the film transport is very quick, and there is more time to show the picture, you can get a very bright picture out. In one cinema I worked, we had triple blade shutters, and the image was virtually flicker-free at 72 frames.
A lot of innovative technologies are hampered by bad installations and maintenance. There are of course always children`s diseases which have to be remedied in the first phase, but if the result is good, it is always good to try something new out.
BTW, as I pointed out in my later post, the E series don`t have a framing marking anyway, the D projectors have it. Since the framing is controlled electronically, the E projectors have no central position.
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-30-2003 09:32 PM
Michael, I have wanted Kinoton to have two framing controls for their E machines for a couple of years now. One just a push button on the front side that every time you push it, it will jump the framing by one whole perf (one button to go up, one button to go down). Then on the back side of the machine (preferably behind some kind of panel or in a box that can be locked if desired) have a "fine tuning" framing control like Kinoton currently has to tweek things dead on. (Alternatively the fine tuning framing control could be two buttons on the main control panel that have the option of being disabled in software.)
A further thing I have wanted to see Kinoton implement is automatic framing. Seriously, all that would be required is the above mentioned framing scenario plus a cue sensor in the gate. What would happen is somewhere near the end of the leader there would be a "center cue" placed on the frameline of the leader. When the film passed, it would sense how far off it was and instantaneously adjust (easily within a second) to hit the screen in frame all the time, guaranteed. To further this idea, there should be loop sensors similar to what is on the ST200. If the upper loop sensor shows the loop is too big, it would adjust it smaller. Same for the lower loop. The end result would be a machine that so long as someone got the soundtrack facing out, could just slap the film in there and the projector itself would tweek the framing and threading. Hopefully the engineers at Kinoton will try and pull this off. Sales of those machines to multiplexes would go through the roof.
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Stephen Furley
Film God

Posts: 3059
From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
Registered: May 2002
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posted 03-31-2003 06:07 AM
Richard wrote:
quote: E movements have their place ( especially on huge wall to wall screens )and so does the maltese cross
I have used FP-30Ds, and older Kinoton machines, 35mm only, I have never used thier 16mm or 70mm ones, and I have never used the electronic models. What are the advantages and disadvantages of them, and when would you select an electronic rather than a mechanical machine, or vica versa.
How widely used are the electronic machines, I have seen loads of the mechanical machines, often quite old, but no electronic ones. How does the price compare between a new 'D', and an 'E'?
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