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Author Topic: Help with sound c/o wiring Don Furr Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 509 From: Sun City, Ca USA Registered: Nov 2002 posted 07-27-2003 12:57 PM                     Hi Frank....... Really the reason I put on Kelmar arms is because my XL's had nothing when I took possession! These XL's are soooooo much fun to operate. I run a pair of JJ's at a part time job (I'm retired) but I'm still partial to the XL's. Don  |  IP: Logged Frank Angel Film God Posts: 5305 From: Brooklyn NY USA Registered: Dec 1999 posted 07-28-2003 03:28 PM                        Don, To know them is to love them. Actually, I have been running 2000footers in the big theatre for years (decades, actually). Years ago when I got the chance to put in the 7000ft magazines that were being thrown out when a neighborhood theatre closed, I couldn't resist. I still only run 2000ft, but damn those big mags look awesome! Frank  |  IP: Logged Daryl C. W. O'Shea Film God Posts: 3977 From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from) Registered: Jun 2002 posted 07-28-2003 08:43 PM                        Good to hear you got it working Don. Hope you have fun with it all!  |  IP: Logged System Notices Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi Posts: 215 Registered: Apr 2004 posted 08-20-2004 08:01 PM                 It has been 388 days since the last post.  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-20-2004 08:01 PM                        Bump. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a "Kelmar ES-7200-B C/O Module"? This is the box with the "Normal/Emergency" switch which was originally designed to switch the exciter lamp for a Kelmar mono sound system. It has a P&B latching relay and two switches inside. I've figured out how to make it do what I want (connect to pushbuttons or footpedals along with picture c/o to toggle closed/open to control sound c/o on my CP65), but I'd kind of like to have the original wiring diagram in case I ever have the need to put it back into its original configuration. Thanks. (No, it's not in the Kelmar AS-7200 manual on F-T...I looked.)  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-21-2004 11:01 AM                     "Humm... I wonder what that field pays?" Tim, I once knew a person that was sent to "Bowling Alley Repair School" at either AMF or Brunswick, can't remember which and doesn't really matter. He was a maintainance guy for someone that I worked for in the past and had the bowling machine repairs more or less dumped on him. He was always underpaid and over worked. Hope that gives you some clue..... Mark Gulbrandsen  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 08-21-2004 11:48 AM                    quote: Mark Gulbrandsen Tim, I once knew a person that was sent to "Bowling Alley Repair School" at either AMF or Brunswick, can't remember which and doesn't really matter. He was a maintainance guy for someone that I worked for in the past and had the bowling machine repairs more or less dumped on him. He was always underpaid and over worked. Hope that gives you some clue..... Mark's posting (quoted to preserve) is a very subtle take on the very concept of changeover.  |  IP: Logged Josh Jones Redhat Posts: 1207 From: Plano, TX Registered: Apr 2000 posted 08-23-2004 02:58 AM                        Well, since i missed this the first time around, I might as well add my two cents. If you need a latching relay system, you can make it out of 3 normal relays. one relay functions as the latch, IE, its coil is powered by its own contacts. when voltage is applied to the coil, the contacts will pull in and keep the contacts latched. To dump the contacts interrupt the ground. this is where the two other relays come in. use one relay to latch the coil, and the other to interrupt the ground and dump the latch, ie release the contacts. whoila! Josh  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 08-23-2004 11:17 AM                     Josh, Normally that circuit is done with just two relays...one doing the self latching and one that breaks the circuit... However, nothing beats a KB or KBP series relay for doing the job...they also don't "forget" their position when powered down. Steve  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 08-23-2004 11:45 AM                    It takes 3 relays if you are working off the picture changeover circuits, running one relay off the 1>2 circuit and the other off the 2>1 circuit and the 3rd to latch. Even with a 120V relay for the latching circuit (and 120V C/O's) you still need a relay on the "make" side to isolate the continuous latching circuit from the C/O coil circuit. However, isolation can also be provided by using a DPST button...live power to both poles...one contact for the C/O circuit, the other directly into the relay latching circuit. Ditto if separate sound buttons are provided. But... if you're going to eliminate the "make" relay this way then why not also get rid of the "break" relay as well by using the N/C side of a SPDT button for the 2nd button (or SPST NC if separate sound button)? Then you only need one relay.  |  IP: Logged Josh Jones Redhat Posts: 1207 From: Plano, TX Registered: Apr 2000 posted 08-23-2004 06:28 PM                        Sorry, been designing curtain control circuits the last few days. I just like the idea of all the switches being the same, ie N.O. contacts. Josh  |  IP: Logged

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