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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Horizontal Movement On Strong Millennium (Page 3)

 
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
Author Topic: Horizontal Movement On Strong Millennium
Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-06-2009 08:18 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
the extra friction on the framing came from when they sealed up the INTERMITTENT CAM to the frame...that red O-ring...not the framing shaft itself.

I agree for the most part too. I don't have a problem with the T framing knob though. Strong has done way too many stupid things to even begin to offset the few good things they have done. Probably the best good thing they have done is to improve the main casting... beyond that there simply isn't much improvement to mention. The intermittents are way inferior to older Simplex manufactured movements anad thats the critical basis of any projector. The extra friction on the framing shaft is simply not needed to seal in static oil and is way too high, so much so that I have seen countless "O" rings extruded right out from under the back washer thats supposed to keep it in place... in fact an "O" ring is to be in a groove to function properly... so where's the groove... smart techs will continue to use the flat rubber washers from Wolk and install a lighter tension spring or cut off a couple of turns as Tony does. The flat washers seal just fine and I also agree on spending much on engineering/tooling to save basically nothing... something they've repeatedly done over the years.

Another good example.. take a look at the fine balance and dynamics and reliability of an old "Strong Toledo" manufactured Super Trooper and compare it to the pile of crap they been calling a Super Trooper for the last 15 years. What a piece of junk it is.

Mark

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-06-2009 02:23 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
Tony...the extra friction on the framing came from when they sealed up the INTERMITTENT CAM to the frame...that red O-ring...not the framing shaft itself.

Steve


True, but that added friction from the intermittent cam seal actually makes the framing mechanism have a better feel, and the friction from the cam seal is slight compared to that from the framing shaft. So they score one point for the cam seal, but lose two for the shaft seal and the shit handle. [thumbsdown]

quote:
<snip>The intermittents are way inferior to older Simplex manufactured movements anad thats the critical basis of any projector. The extra friction on the framing shaft is simply not needed to seal in static oil and is way too high, so much so that I have seen countless "O" rings extruded right out from under the back washer thats supposed to keep it in place... in fact an "O" ring is to be in a groove to function properly... so where's the groove... smart techs will continue to use the flat rubber washers from Wolk and install a lighter tension spring or cut off a couple of turns as Tony does. The flat washers seal just fine and I also agree on spending much on engineering/tooling to save basically nothing... something they've repeatedly done over the years.
Oh yeah, I had forgotten how crappy the intermittents are..and the factory rebuild service is worse. I sent one in for rebuild, it came back with a lot of slop in the flywheel shaft, a NON-VKF sprocket, and a paint job that looked like it was done with a steel broom. That insult cost over $1,100.00 and it was shit. I'll try to take a pic of it. I now rebuild them myself for a lot less money and get far better results.

Exactly on the o-ring issues..again, I wonder who the hell makes these stupid decisions there, trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist in the first place.

quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Another good example.. take a look at the fine balance and dynamics and reliability of an old "Strong Toledo" manufactured Super Trooper and compare it to the pile of crap they been calling a Super Trooper for the last 15 years. What a piece of junk it is.
Thanks for the reminder..I had worked with both styles at Knott's Berry Farm and for sure the new ones sucked big time. I almost threw one of the new ones off the roof by Reflection Lake during a fireworks show.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 02-06-2009 07:54 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sounds like some form of ballast weight is in order?? Louis

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-06-2009 07:57 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Louis, I wish, but the poor balance of that unit would make for a few precisely weighted and placed weights, and it still would have been crap. [Smile]

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-06-2009 08:44 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Louis Bornwasser
Sounds like some form of ballast weight is in order?? Louis

Exactly Louis! I have done just that.

quote: Tony Bandiera Jr
I almost threw one of the new ones off the roof by Reflection Lake during a fireworks show.

I gave them the name Stupid Trooper and I think its very fitting. Sometime I'll have to tell you the Stupid Trooper DC ignitor story... another un-needed solution that also didn't fix the problem it was supposed to.

Mark

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Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 02-07-2009 12:17 AM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Tony Bandiera Jr
Yes, I am talking about the gray handle, it looks like a cheap piece of shit that was molded by a 2 year-old
That's pretty f*(&%in funny.

This is what happens to me. I start a movie, I think it may need a slight adjustment. I attempt to move the framing T handle slowly, I gradually apply more and more pressure until all the sudden the whole damn picture jumps when I finally get it to turn. So much for trying to be subtle.

Thanks for the tip Mark, I'll try swapping the gate and trap from another machine. Honestly though I can feel the whole turret vibrating from the vibration of the motor. Is there some simple way to determine if the film is shaking or if the lens is shaking?

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-07-2009 12:31 AM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
I gave them the name Stupid Trooper and I think its very fitting. Sometime I'll have to tell you the Stupid Trooper DC ignitor story... another un-needed solution that also didn't fix the problem it was supposed to.

Is that by chance the same ignitor they use in the new consoles and lamphouses? What a piece of crap..I got bit by one once...

quote: Eric Robinson
I attempt to move the framing T handle slowly, I gradually apply more and more pressure until all the sudden the whole damn picture jumps when I finally get it to turn. So much for trying to be subtle.
Yep, that's another reason I hate that design. As I'd mentioned (and Mark elaborated on) you can cut a few coils off the spring on the framing shaft to get rid of the excess tension, then put the flat rubber washers on (you can find ones that fit at a good hardware store actually) and chuck that cast junk in the trash. Then either take the good phenolic knob off the non-op side or order one from Strong.

It's not hard to do but is a bit time consuming, but you'll feel better and your projector won't look like a toy anymore. [Smile]

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 02-07-2009 08:07 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John,

As for the missing stripper...yup...ever since they accommodated the Century turret on the PR-1060, they raised the upper feed and stripped the stripper! However, the reason for the milled place and tapped holes is that the upper-feed assemby is the same as the one used on the PR-1014, PR-1020 and PR-1030. As such, the make it as they always have, and then add an additional process for a turret machine by cutting the top off.

As for fire shutters...they are not available on the Simplex turret machines but have been available for Centurys, and Simplex single lens machines. In fact, they are standard on the PR-1020/1030 studio machines. Most exhibitors though would rip them out if they came standard on cinema machines...all it takes is one moron to pinch the fire shutter putting the trap back in and they'd start losing shows. To this day, we have some customers with them and some with out and they are maintained if they are in (and the customer is aware of them, their purpose and has people that know how to not damage them).

Steve

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-07-2009 02:15 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Eric Robinson
Honestly though I can feel the whole turret vibrating from the vibration of the motor.
Just picked up on this note...

You need to check the motor pulley for loose setscrews, the belt for any tooth damage or crud build up. Also check the flywheel to see if it has worked loose.

Most likely you'll find one of the pulley setscrews has backed out. Happened to me on one machine.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 02-07-2009 02:35 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wanna see if it is the motor...disconnect it from the projector/soundhead and just run it with its flywheel...any vibration?

The shutter is fastest spinning thing in the projector...if it is out of balance, it will cause a projector to shake. Take the shutter blade off and see if the shake goes away.

Steve

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-07-2009 02:43 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Good one, Steve, yeah the shutter blade is another possibility, especially of the hand dowser and Zipper were left open with the lamp on and the machine stopped..that'll warp a blade big time.

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Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 02-08-2009 01:00 AM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I did run the motor without belts and it seemed fine. I ran the motor with one belt driving the 5 Star lower feed sprocket, seemed fine. This projector did have a notable oil leak at the bottom center of the gear cover which caused a huge greasy mess in the belt compartment. I replaced the belts, and wiped everything down. It is possible; however, that some of the pulley teeth are still jammed with grease and grime. I'll check the pulley teeth and the flywheel screws. The shutter blade could be a culprit as well, the employees were white screening it a while back by manually turning the lamp switch on a minute before the show, (repeatedly), because they had trouble striking the bulb at the beginning of a show, because the bulb was nearly dead and they were too dumb to put a new one in.

Thanks for all the tips!

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 02-08-2009 02:25 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
wobbly shutter bearings?

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

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From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-08-2009 04:05 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
wobbly shutter bearings?
Not likely. They don't wear that badly, never seen any go bad really, except for the small one in the gear compartment end, it would freeze or get sticky and wear the end of the shutter shaft so the shaft spins in the bearing. When replacing it, I would use a file and put a few fine scores lengthwise on the shaft end so it would bite into the new bearing without slipping.

On a related note, if a Simplex ever gets travel ghost on both the top AND bottom of light text, that means the spring washer under the drive gear in the shutter assembly is shot. If you watch closely with the machine running you can see the shutter shaft bouncing in and out. The reason the double ghosting appears is because the bouncing makes the shutter timing jump from early to late. I rebuild those drives and have a few available on a repair-exchange basis.

quote: Eric Robinson
The shutter blade could be a culprit as well, the employees were white screening it a while back by manually turning the lamp switch on a minute before the show, (repeatedly), because they had trouble striking the bulb at the beginning of a show, because the bulb was nearly dead and they were too dumb to put a new one in.
I think that's the problem then..bet one or more of the shutter blades is warped. Take off the shutter cover and turn the machine over by hand and see if any of the blades are bent, warped or burned. If so, get a new shutter.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 02-08-2009 04:57 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
On the shutters: Knowing that they are made of cast potmetal and with Tony's discussion on warped or bent blades, even on a new shutter, the assembly doesn't rotate in a smooth cone: it looks like the tips of the blades are outside of this cone when the assembly rotates.

Thus, don't even try to bend those blade tips back into this cone for you'll bust them quite easily - an unfortunate learning experience for me thinking of the same in a single screen changeover house and had no spare shutter. Thus, I had ghosting on that one machine until I got a new shutter.

-Monte

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