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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Platter problems. Speco LP270/3. bottom platter scratching
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Bill Langfield
Master Film Handler

Posts: 280
From: Prospect, NSW, Australia
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-24-2003 06:02 PM
Kevin,
Sounds very much like emulsion side down scratching by the plate at take up. These are scratches (green ones) going from top left to bottom right. RIGHT??
Firstly, I believe the newer Speco's are the BEST platters going around.
The problem with the earlier ones (with the slide-adjustable take-up roller) was that, with bottom deck there was only about 10mm between it locking in and GOING TOO low, which can be missed. On the top and middle deck you noticed pretty quick if you did not get a GOOD lock.
The white paint used on earlier Speco's sucked, and was easy damaged by moving prints all the time, so having a print drag on that area (the edge) would not be good. (The new ones seem to have a more durable surface)
Regarding the the locking pin, they suck, when they come loose they are a pain in the ass to fix, but once loc-tighten they are fine, until the spring in pin gives up. Then try removing one loc-tightened!
The newer Speco's, where you have to actually remove the whole take up roller and move it to a different are deck, are a 'pain', but at least you are sure it's not going anywhere. (Even if they do use the same pin)
The 'inbween' Speco's that used complicated 'digital' to detect which plate should be taking-up/paying-out plain sucked.
That said, and again I think SPECO is the BEST, it seems many platter systems have this lower deck problem where the take up roller-slide assembly can can slip just that 1/2 inch lower that where it should be.
1/ The older Speco. (BTW: Never skip a take-up roller and use 4 of the 5, it winds F888ing TIGHT!!!) 2/ The AW-3 (been so long, cant even remember if the older ones had slide take up rollers) 3/ The CNR-35 (though this one will not take up unless it is locked into place, activating a micro switch) 4/ The ERM, can even remember the name now, but they sucked, erm, Eprad perhaps, I hated those. 5/ No wonder I got FIRED, I can't remember a thing. Stress?? (Hello to 'I KNOW WHO YOU ARE' - asshole)
Back to your problem, there are 3 things I've noted with Speco's.
1/ They need to be DEAD level - Not that, that effects the overall film path. 2/ They need to be put together correctly - and even if so... 3/ They need slight modifications. (one being 'angle of attack' of the arm that holds the plate)
Point three is the most important in your case. (and this is a bit hard to explain)
All 3 or 4 arms that hold the plate up are not always 'square' to level when bolted together. The four bolts that hold the arm on might need a washer or two added to the lower two bolts to 'lift' it a little. (The Film never needs to drag on the outer edge of the plate - a 1/4 inch (max) above is fine, I say)
As it seems you are only having trouble with the lower deck pin location, I would straight away drill and pin so the roller assembly can't EVER go below where it can drag the film on the plate. (It is intersting however, that you note, you have never seen the film drag on the plate)
You point out the MUT might be being a cause. Are you using 35mm/70mm (Speco) rollers to make-up from MUT to plate? If so, avoid it, they pinch the film, get 35mm rollers off another MUT. I'm not saying that is the problem though.
Again with the MUT, I know it's annoying to get the roller in the right position to make-up to plate, but an idea is to mark where the roller should be for each plate with a paint marker in a general area slightly AVOVE the perfect spot! Also make sure all take-up rollers track with the plate as it fills up.
I would stay with sound track down (on the test film you suggested) until you find the cause, you said you are using film-guard, this could be masking how many prints are being damaged, due to film guard being able to 'fix' base damage.
Just a few thoughts.
Regards Bill.
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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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