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Author Topic: Strong AP3 Platter make-up mode Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 08-27-2003 11:58 AM                     Tim mentioned paper clips. The works OK on CFS platters, but not Strong's. Although they are very effective on some platters, I don't like to use them because if sctatching of the alumunum surface near the edge. Tail tucks?? This is what I do and I do it with an old preview. It does not cost anything and won't throw itself off the platter. Works great! Most of the time I use three....each one placed 120 degrees from each other. The do not leave a gooey residue on the platter. When the sticky side of the tape is worn out, just a few more inside-out wraps fixes it right up again.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-27-2003 12:23 PM                     good luck with the opening "break a leg "  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 08-27-2003 12:24 PM                        Another idea is to make an "hula hoop" out of 1-inch flexible PVC pipe and put that around the outside of the roll as a retaining ring, attaching it to the platter surface. Even if the platter speed goes wild, it should keep the print from sliding or suffering "platter fling". If you like the idea of a film-based retaining ring, Kodak's subsidiary FPC sells a very stiff 7-mil polyester leader used by processing labs: http://www.fpchollywood.com/film-leaders-lab-processing-machine-leaders-blue-polyester-leaders.html  |  IP: Logged Chris Hipp Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1462 From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas) Registered: Jul 2003 posted 08-27-2003 09:28 PM                     TECO stick a poos work well. I only use a wrap with long movies. Tucking the tail works fine. As long as you build up properly and your prints are super static charged, then you won't have any problems. I can only remember one brain wrap recently, and that was because someone didnt get all the adhesive off after removing cue tape. I can't even remember the last time I had a print with bad static, but if you do have a static problem, I've foudn that putting q-tips in the keepers on the outside of the brain will keep the film from jumping a roller.  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 08-27-2003 09:34 PM                        quote: I can't even remember the last time I had a print with bad static. The improved Kodak VISION Color Print Film with the scratch-resistant conductive anti-static layer has been on the market for well over a year. Before that, labs had to add a special anti-static additive (ACL Staticide) to the final rinse in the processing machine, so sometimes a few prints got out without adequate static protection. Now, ALL 35mm Kodak color prints should be very resistant to "static cling" on platters.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 08-27-2003 10:41 PM                     Chris, use rubber bands instead of Q tips. Cue tips can dislodge themselves and possibly jam the pay-out arm. I stole the rubber band idea form a Regal theatre. Sticky poos....sure they work. But if it is one of those poos that is about 16mm high, a fart in a windstorm can blow the tail up an over that thing. Besides, Poo costs money. Previews are free. I'm cheap!!!! I still think tail tucks  |  IP: Logged Chris Hipp Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1462 From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas) Registered: Jul 2003 posted 08-28-2003 12:02 AM                     Paul: Do you mean connect the keepers with rubberbands? I'm not sure I understand.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 08-28-2003 12:26 AM                     Chris, yes. That is what I was getting at. It works great! Use a low-tension rubber bands between each parameter roller on the pay-out head, probably the same as what you are doing with Q-tips. Here is a picture. I just happen to have a junk pay-out head from a CFS platter to use as an example. Sorry about the crappy drawing of the rubber bands, but I think you will immediately see what I am talking about. It looks as though there is not enough clearence for the rubber band to stay clear of an idler roller, but there is: Complements to Regal...probably one of their "trade secrets" that I am probably not supposed to know about...you know Regal...  |  IP: Logged Chris Hipp Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1462 From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas) Registered: Jul 2003 posted 08-28-2003 09:51 AM                     Actually, I stick the q tips inside the rollers. On our brains there is a hole in the center of the outside rollers so I stick the qtip in and then if the film does go up onto the roller, it has to travel up about 6 inches before going over. I'll try the rubberbands tonight, it seems easier to thread like that than with the qtips.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 08-28-2003 01:31 PM                     Chris, I think you will like the rubber band thing. Let us know what you think of the idea after you try it. The only time I have seel film climb the roller is when the roller spindle was bashed and bent due to careless operation such as turning the platter motor on while the center ring is only engaged in one hole. I always insist my operators never place the center ring on the platter without engaging the pins in both holes. I have seen more pay-out heads severly damaged because someone had their "drift factor" engaged and not paying attention to what they are doing.  |  IP: Logged

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