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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Film Gaurd Scratched a print?
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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-27-2003 01:09 PM
So, scratching doesn't occur when the cleaner is not being used, no? Same projector, same film, same everything else but the film cleaner?
If so the answer seems clear that one of two things is the problem. First, the tension on the film may be too tight, causing excess friction and scratching the film. Second, mounting the film cleaner may alter the film path, causing it to rub somewhere it's not supposed to.
If you're using Strong platters, I think the film tension theory is eliminated unless you're seriously misthreading it. If that's true then you'd be seeing scratching all the time, thus this whole issue would become moot.
Now, it is quite easy to have a clear film path in "normal" conditions and a "bad" film path when the cleaner is added.
Where in the system is your cleaner located? Platter? Projector-mounted? Let's assume projector mount, for the sake of discussion. (Same principles apply for platters. Just transfer the ideas.)
Thread up some old film without the cleaner. You don't have to run the machine. Just a hunk of an old trailer will do. Follow the film as it comes off the upper roller above the projector and turns downward, into the machine. Notice that it makes a "compound bend". Not only does it make a 90º turn, going from horizontal to vertical but it makes another 90º turn as it "barrell rolls" going into the projector. This makes the alignment of that upper roller pretty tricky to get right. The position of this roller is KEY to having a clear film path. Fidget that roller around until the film goes perfectly flat over the center of the roller and doesn't hit against the keeper(s) or the flanges. You're likely to find that the roller will have to be bent into a very odd looking position... kind of pointing sideways and down a bit.
Once you have the path clear for NO cleaner, install the cleaner and repeat the process. You're likely to find that the position of the roller(s) will change slightly. This is where the fun begins. The film path for ONE situation may not be suitable for the other. You're going to have to fiddle around until you get a postion that satisfies both. It's just one of those things you're going to have to fool around with until it's right. A lot of people aren't willing to spend the time or effort to do this seemingly simple task but I would say that it's the source of a majority of scratched prints.
When you have your problem solved, tell your manager that FilmGuard is the thing that's going to save his ass! One of the properties of F.G. is that it hides scratches. If the scratching isn't so severe that the emulsion is disturbed you're likely to find that a good, healthy application of F.G. will make most, if not all, of those scratches disappear!
Solve your problem with the scratches, load up some F.G. on the cleaner and run it exclusively on the damaged print during every showing for a couple-three days. Follow all other directions exactly. You will find that the more runs of the F.G. cleaner you put on the film, the better it will be. Geez, if you can run it on that one film for a whole week, all's the better!
The only thing I would do differently than the instructions would be to make sure that the pads of the cleaner are good and wet with F.G. After about a 1/2 week, check them and wet them again if they need it. In my opinion, this is the one and only case where extra FilmGuard is a good thing. Just be sure you don't put so much on there that the film won't run correctly through the projector. (You'll get jitters.) That's why I said to wait before resoaking.
Do that and, if the scratches aren't so bad that F.G. can't fix them, show the film to your manager again. I guarantee (s)he'll be whistling a different tune!
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