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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Cleaning & Relubricating floating hub reels (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Cleaning & Relubricating floating hub reels
John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-13-2003 08:24 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Avoid using lubricants that may get oil or particles (graphite) onto the film.

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Erick Akers
Arse Kicker

Posts: 201
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: May 2001


 - posted 10-13-2003 05:42 PM      Profile for Erick Akers   Email Erick Akers   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That was exactly why posed the question.
What I found after breaking them down was a film like grease, but it is a dryer substence with a white color similar to lithium grease that has been discolored slightly grey by the aluminum hubs. What ever they used has a real tendency to dry out over time.

I rejected using oil, graphite and any petrolium based grease for the exact reasons mentioned by John P. and I was considering a silicon type lubricant.

From what I can see, the lubricant that was used never made it past the hub, and I'm sure that friction could possibaly make some lubricants liquify and run beyond them.

From using silicon dry lubes in the past, they tend to ball up as they dry when used in a moving rotation situation and I am unsure of the abrasiveness of silicon.

Any more thoughts?

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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-27-2010 01:20 PM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 2328 days since the last post.


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Jim Bedford
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 597
From: Telluride, CO, USA (733 mi. WNW of Rockwall, TX but it seems much, much longer)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-27-2010 01:20 PM      Profile for Jim Bedford   Author's Homepage   Email Jim Bedford   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've searched but can't find the exact answer I need, although Tim Reed's comments come close.

The floating flanges on our floating hub 5K and 6K reels are getting gunked up in the tracks on the hub. The reels are riveted and can not be easily taken apart. How do I get the gunk out and then what do I lubricate them with when they are clean that will reduce the chances of them gunking up again?

Tim's suggestions leaves out how to extract all the dirt in the tracks. Is there a way (high pressure spray of air or something, spin the gunk out, etc.) to really clean the tracks and the flanges where they fit into the tracks, or is this the best that can be done?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 02-27-2010 03:41 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You can get a reel-repair-kit from any Goldberg dealer and I think Wolk still offers their "sav-a-reel" screw on rivots. Thus, you can drill out the rivets...pull the whole thing apart, clean, lubricate and put it back together. Once you have the screw on rivets, you can clean them when ever you want. Also, you may find the core needs to be changed, particularly if it is a 5/16" keyed type...they always wear out...particularly on larger reels.

As for a lubricant that won't get gunked up...I don't know of any.

Steve

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 02-27-2010 03:42 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I can't speak to floating hub reels in particular, but the standard approach to such mechanical systems is to flood them with a volatile solvent and let that pull out the dirt and grime, and then follow it with enough lubricant to get the solvent out.

Using compressed air can dramatically help this process along.

In this case, I would probably start with WD40 as a solvent. If that wasn't good enough, you could use kerosene. But if you do, make sure you follow it with enough light oil to get the kerosene out of the way and restore real lubrication (this also applies with WD40, but it's not quite so critical). You might also follow the light oil with grease (or, if you Zirc fittings for grease injection, just start off with grease).

If you're really stuck getting the gunk out, and if there is sufficient access to insert compressed air, you can also clean with a degreaser like Simple Green, and then flush with water, and then follow with air to get the water out. This is probably the most effective approach (because you can flood with a LOT of water), but you need to make sure you can adequately get the water out (again, compressed air is generally sufficient).

--jhawk
(who PM'd several ball-bearing casters this way yesterday)

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 02-27-2010 05:11 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I really wish my floating hub reels would seize permanently. I wish they were mine to trade for solid hub reels, but alas they are not. Is there any way for me to expedite the seizing process? Floating hub reels shouldn't even be allowed in platter booths unless the print was transferred that way from a changeover theater.

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Chris Slycord
Film God

Posts: 2986
From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted 02-27-2010 05:22 PM      Profile for Chris Slycord   Email Chris Slycord   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wouldn't there be a way to take it apart like mentioned above then weld the pieces together? Granted, this assumes you have access to welding gear.

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Ian Parfrey
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1049
From: Imbil Australia 26 deg 27' 42.66" S 152 deg 42' 23.40" E
Registered: Feb 2009


 - posted 02-27-2010 05:38 PM      Profile for Ian Parfrey   Email Ian Parfrey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Joe Redifer
Is there any way for me to expedite the seizing process?
14 lb. sledge works wonders.

As for lubrication, one drop of kerosene ONLY.

The kero can be used to flush out the gunk and after removing, one drop will lubricate the flanges.

Kero is used in the metal trade for lubricating cutting tools when working on aluminium. It sounds weird, but it works and works well.

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 02-27-2010 10:57 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kerosene evaporates and leaves a very very thin coat. I'd seriously question leaving it for any mechanical system -- you'd have to relubricate fairly frequently for it to persist, I think.

Of course, if you clean with kerosene and let evaporate, then you could follow with dry lube (graphite).

--jhawk

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