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Author Topic: Filling in an aperture plate Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 11-21-2003 11:58 PM                    Hundred bucks for the Norelco plate? And that really is just a plate; nothing pressed or embossed or anything. Only the notch and the hole require any degree of precision.  |  IP: Logged Daniel Braun Film Handler Posts: 4 From: burbank , ca Registered: Aug 2003 posted 11-22-2003 12:34 AM                        asfhosdighlbngf,.dfm,cdfnmmldfdf  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-22-2003 11:17 AM                     The Norelco plate is a bit more than just a plate. They are still, stamped, cut, bent, engraved and painted. Remember too...just how many DP70 plates do you think are sold in a year? Nobody is going to get rich on them. The Simplex P-8005 plate is indeed rather reasonably priced and lists in the $30-$40 range...considering it is two plates in one...very resonable. Steve [ 11-22-2003, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: Steve Guttag ]  |  IP: Logged Peter Mork Expert Film Handler Posts: 181 From: Newton, MA, USA Registered: Jun 2002 posted 11-22-2003 07:39 PM                     I have done it this way: mixing up some high-temp epoxy cement (JB Weld is my favorite), smearing some on aluminum foil, folding the foil to make a cement sandwich, cutting off a narrow strip and cementing it to the plate; the folded edge is straight and makes a dandy new edge that, when hardened, can be filed if needed. Quick, and it holds up to lamp heat surprisingly well. But I like this idea of pounding them out - must try it.  |  IP: Logged Greg Mueller Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1687 From: Port Gamble, WA Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-22-2003 07:50 PM                        I make my own for the Noreldo (damn, shouldn't have said that). At first I used aluminum, then I switched to hard brass. I know the originals are curved slightly, but I haven't had any problem with just using flat stock. I took a while to figure out, a lot of cutting and fitting, but eventually I got it right and made one for each format I could think of, so they'd all be in reference to each other. Sounds screwy but it works. Ultimately less than $100 per  |  IP: Logged Will Kutler Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1506 From: Tucson, AZ, USA Registered: Feb 2001 posted 11-24-2003 01:41 PM                     Mark G. beat me to a response.... First, Century and Simplex plates are dirt cheap, just replace the damn things if they are really bad.... As for Christie plates....pretty damn expensive. And ya, if they are messed up, high temp silver solder will do the trick. Ideally, any reputable jewler should be able to fix, seeing as how high temp silver solder will require the use of a jewlers torch. A Bernz-O-Matic might work, but it is going a little overboard for this purpose. Just beware that the cost of repair might equal that of buying a new plate. Christie plates are too damn expensive for what they are, gee whiz, the material only costs a few bucks. The hyped up cost is probably due to cnc shop time. In reality, these plates are more suited to a cnc converted Sherline mill...or a cnc converted Bridgeport. Another way to reduce cost...investment cast the damn things...through this process...Christie would definately turen a profit at $15.00 a pop. In another post, someone mentioned "special aperture plate files". No such thing...in other threads where we spoke of tools for the booth, I mentioned the use of Grobet nontapered "safe" files...as well as how to properly use and care for files.  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-24-2003 02:08 PM                        What's the going rate for Simplex PR-1014 (non-turret) plates? Last I checked, they were significantly more than Century "C" or "SA" plates (~$7 the last time I bought them).  |  IP: Logged

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