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Author Topic: Re-striking a xenon bulb Per Hauberg Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 883 From: Malling, Denmark Registered: Jul 2000 posted 11-22-2003 08:01 PM                        On my new FP30D with Kinoton 700/2000 lamphouse, I was a bit disappointed, finding that the lamp has no manual dowser (or what is the correct word in english), only the c/o dowser, which is so small that it allows a bit of light to get around it - just enough to let You see the numbers of the leader on a dark screen. The automation is therefore born, so that the lamp can not stay turned on, when projector is not running. Lamp is ignited and turned off with every motor start/stop, unless You cut off the power (when treading film, etc.) I have always learned, that every ignition cots 15-20 minutes of the lamp's life, and do not find this good. Also, -now I have for the first time ever, a projector with a bit of automation, -I would like to use it to have my hands free for scratching, nosepicking and other duties, but I have to hold one hand in front of lens, to keep those darn numbers away from screen. Are these (otherwise great) lamphouses from Kinoton not equipped with proper closing devices, when installed for bigger lamps than my 700 watt, either ? Per  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 11-23-2003 06:24 PM                     ahhhhh....the manual douser is an option. Kinoton is like our hamburger food chain...Burger King..which you can have your burger any way you want....you just have to ask for the pickle ( manual douser )  |  IP: Logged Per Hauberg Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 883 From: Malling, Denmark Registered: Jul 2000 posted 11-23-2003 07:50 PM                        Richard: Of course, one always want the best possible price on new equipment, but... well, -i'd better ask, if they've got a glass of pickles left down there... p  |  IP: Logged System Notices Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi Posts: 215 Registered: Apr 2004 posted 05-15-2005 01:02 PM                 It has been 538 days since the last post.  |  IP: Logged Brad Allen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 688 From: Evansville, IN, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 05-15-2005 01:02 PM                     quote: Darryl Spicer I used to work with Xenex II lamphouses year ago. This was a common problem with those. What they did was change the igniter to one that was used in a stong lamphouse. Problem never occured again What would be involved in replacing the ignitor in a Xenex 1 L2000 lamphouse with a Strong or other recommended ignitor?  |  IP: Logged Brad Allen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 688 From: Evansville, IN, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 05-16-2005 09:03 PM                     Anyone?  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-16-2005 10:09 PM                     Brad, What for? The Kneisley ignitor is not all that bad... pretty reliable, although a tad noisy like a Super Lume-Ex. I've only repaired two in over 25 years. Both of those were repaired and then put back in place and are still working today. I don't think Strong has nearly as good a track record as Kneisley in the ignitor departmment. I have installed LP ignitors in Xetrons due to the high cost of the replacement IREM units though. Basically, any ignitor designed to work at the negative end of the lamp should work though. Mark  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 05-17-2005 10:30 AM                     The Kneisley ignitor was also designed to withstand the infared heat coming out the rear of the glass reflector. Very rare problems with their ignitor....most problems are on the autostrike relay board or start switch which are away from the ignitor. The weak point is the wiring connection to the main coil to the negative bulb attachment...the coil can rotate slighty when loosening the connection to the bulb lead and flex the wiring....just hold on the coil when tighting / loosening the stud + nut.  |  IP: Logged Brad Allen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 688 From: Evansville, IN, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 05-17-2005 11:52 AM                     I'm just grasping at straws, trying to cure a couple of on going issues with my Xenex 1's. I had seen mention of the Kniesley ignitor being "noisy". I took that to mean it was electrically noisy, I'm still trying to cure the problem when starting Projector C, when the lamp ignites, it cause's the TA-10 on Projector B to go into "intermission". I'm doing the Grainger blower upgrade soon (been ordered) on the lamphouse's, hoping that cures the hot bulb starting problems. Another of my reasoning for possibly replacing the ignitor with another brand. And at times, we have problems with starting cold bulbs. Wow, "Betty at that extension" can really get testy when you call and ask questions that make her think your being critical of "her" equipment. All I did was ask to speak to someone who could tell me the correct wiring for the new autostrike boards? "All our equipment comes with instructions"....Uh, these didn't Betty. It was funny. Comments appreciated.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-17-2005 10:46 PM                     quote: Brad Allen I'm still trying to cure the problem when starting Projector C, when the lamp ignites, it cause's the TA-10 on Projector B to go into "intermission". Brad, The problem is the TA-10. Really a dinosaur of an automation and it is pretty susceptabale to ignition noise. I quit using them after about the 3rd unit. The EPRAD ultimation and Strong units are basically immune to noise... just as a comparison of automations. EPRADS father company, TL Industries, designs and builds computer controled robotic controllers for the auto industry and they have extensive experince with controllers being used in noisy areas. You can also try bypassing the AC lines with some caps and see if this helps out. Bypasas at both the automation and at the lamaphouse. Whaht might actually work here is just a simnple CORCOM ac line filter. These are available form places like Allied Radio. go to www.corcom.com Check out the B series filters on the products page. Probably the quietest ignitor out there is the old LUM-EX unit. All you hear is a little tick from it. Why Strong quit making that design is beyond me. Good luck with the blowers. Won't help the noise much but it will give much longer lamp life anad generate some different noise. Again, be sure to check the rotation direction after assembly..... there is a huge differece in suction. Mark  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 05-18-2005 09:02 AM                     The brute force design of the Kneisley tends to make it noisy. In addition to Mark's good tips, Component Engineering has a shield kit for RF problems that you are experiencing for the TA10.  |  IP: Logged Brad Allen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 688 From: Evansville, IN, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 05-19-2005 03:51 PM                     Mark, Yesterday I installed a Tripp-Lite surge protector on both offending TA-10's. Unit includes RFI and EMI filtering. If this doesn't help, I will try the part you suggested. I also discovered yesterday, that the conduit for the DC wires from the P.S. to the lamphouse on the offending lamphouse, was watertight type & did not have any metal in it, so no RF shielding. I replaced with metal flex. Richard, I knew Component Eng. had the RF shield kit, but I thought it was only for the drawer mount. Will it work/fit in my Wall mount units? I just thought, I don't have the cable that goes from the FM-35 to the TA-10 in flex conduit, should I. I assume this would be a source of picking up RF? Thanks for the suggestions guys, much appreciated.  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 05-19-2005 05:08 PM                     I have used the shield unit on TA-10 wall mounts.  |  IP: Logged Marin Zorica Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 671 From: Biograd na Moru, Croatia Registered: May 2003 posted 05-23-2005 10:09 AM                     I didn't have any problems with striking a hot lamp with most equipment what is in use, but i have with new equipment, because rectifier i use have 95-120V no load voltage!!!!!! So for that isn't hard to strike bulb even after 2 hours working! Also igniter have around 45KV ignition voltage! But with new equipment i had some problems because some new rectifier have 75-80V no load voltage (what is low if you ask me!). What is with vertical bulb rotation? How often must be rotated and how much in degrees?  |  IP: Logged Brad Allen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 688 From: Evansville, IN, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 05-26-2005 02:49 PM                     Ok, to update this, I installed two Tripp_lite surge suppressors on both TA-10's. These also filter RFI/EMI. At the same time I replaced the water tight conduit from the rectifier to lamphouse with BX flex. One of the two things cured the problem. It's been a week now, and nary a hiccup out of either the TA-10s.  |  IP: Logged

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