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This topic comprises 5 pages: 1  2  3  4  5 
 
Author Topic: 3-bladed shutters
Matthew Jaro
Film Handler

Posts: 74
From: Gaithersburg, MD, USA
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 07-21-2004 02:14 PM      Profile for Matthew Jaro   Author's Homepage   Email Matthew Jaro   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sam --- How could the contrast possibly be reduced? It would seem that this is physically impossible. Consider for a moment the higher-frame rate formats like Todd-A-O. There was certainly no loss of contrast. Everyone says that a higher frame rate is always better. Three blades would be similar to higher frame rates, except you are seeing the same frame more than two times so that motion would not be as smooth. But contrast?

Incidently, all motion (for example, water) looks much smoother. The effect is truely stunning.

Leo -- Why would you ever want to go back to a two blade shutter if you have a three blade shutter? Changing shutters on an XL is only a matter of minutes anyway.

Brad -- You have to try this. With your state-of-the-art system you don't know what you are missing. The difference is like night and day.

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 07-21-2004 04:42 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Matthew Jaro
If anyone has adjusted multi-sync computer montitors, they will note that 60 Hz refreseh rate is intolerable and they will raise it. 48 is horrible.
Yes, but you cannot directly compare these. A monitor is building up the image line by line, and while the film projector also "builds up" the image by progressively revealing it, when the shutter is open, the image is statically present for a moment.
It's hard to compare the two, but subjectively I would say the amount of flicker you see in 48 Hz projection is comparable to about 70-75 Hz on a computer monitor. My eye needs about 85 Hz for a stable monitor image, but at 72 Hz on the big screen I don't see any flicker anymore either.
I don't know about the contrast since I never had the opportunity to see an A-B comparison, but I did work a lot with 3-bladed FP30Es, and these had a very stable image indeed.

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Carl Martin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1424
From: Oakland, CA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 02:33 AM      Profile for Carl Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Carl Martin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
1. I can assert that all three blades are the same size.

...

4. There is less ghosting because the blades are much wider than you need to mask the pulldown.

so the blades are what, 100 degrees or so? that makes 300 degrees worth of blades, only 60 degrees worth of void. can that be?

carl

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Matthew Jaro
Film Handler

Posts: 74
From: Gaithersburg, MD, USA
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 07-22-2004 07:57 AM      Profile for Matthew Jaro   Author's Homepage   Email Matthew Jaro   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes. The void part is barely wider than the aperture!

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 07-22-2004 09:31 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My this is an interesting debate!

Here are some facts...3-wing shutters can have ZERO affect on contrast ratio. However, I read Sam's post as "perceived" contrast...that is what one thinks they are seeing and that can not be measured with a meter. The meter will still measure the bright areas and the dark areas and come up with a ratio. As Sam says...what is the equivalent to psychoacoustics for vision?

However...while I'm on that subject...contrast on 3-wings. I have not observed the same thing. I have not seen contrast ratio change. I wonder when Sam did his experiments if his meter was calibrated to integrate properly for 72Hz as well as 48Hz to provide equivalent light levels.

I bring this up because of my work with Kinoton's "E" projectors. Most of the ones I work with have a shutter that operates as a 2-wing above 20fps and as a 3-wing below 20fps. It is one of the advantages of having the shutter as a separate motorized item and not tied to the gear train. There are merely 3 passes of the blades before advancement below 20 fps (note, one can have the machine configured for 3-wing at even higher speeds...it is all in how the software is programmed...they also have a "3-wing" verson of the projector that has a different shutter blade all together...it is actually a two-wing blade but with very narrow openings on the order of a Simplex or Century 3-wing...but I digress).

Now consider this...as one slows down the projector and the machine switches from 2-wing to 3-wing mode...I don't see any shift in light or contrast on the screen (perceived). If the perception of contrast was based soley on the number of flashes per cycle, then one should see the screen image dramatically change but you don't. The flicker just diminishes from not bad to not there (you can hear the blade speed up when this happens).

BTW...if you do need to run a mix of silent and sound films...there is no substitute for me now...there is only the Kinoton "E" series of projectors. There is no switching of shutter blades...it is just done is software and it works flawlessly. It is really cool watching stuff at 16fps without flicker.

I will say, I have yet to meet the person that installed 3-wing shutters in a screening room or small screen venue that didn't think they made all the difference in picture quality.

Sam is also correct on his statement on the light loss being more than just 33%. A typical Simplex shutter has a 84-degree shutter (closed portion). This leaves us with a 53% shutter. A 3-wing shutter will also have 84-degree shutters but three of them. Leaving us with just 108-degrees for the three open portions or just 36-degrees each. The math is such that the true light is an integration over the entire cycle of the shutter blade. The three wing shutter is only 30% efficient leaving us with about 56% of the light of our 2-wing counterpart. Again presumming the closed portion of the 3-wing blade is still 84-degrees for both 2-wing and 3-wing.

On those machines with a 90-degree shutter with 50% efficientcy, the numbers fall such that a 3-wing shutter has a 30-degree opening so the efficientcy is only 25% which is only 50% of that of the 2-wing...as Sam stated above.

As to the rise and fall times of a 2-wing over a 3-wing...there is ZERO difference. The rise and fall times are a function of the shutter speed and the radius of the blade...period. A small shutter (i.e. Christie) will have a more pronounced flicker due to its small shutter than a large shutter (e.g. Norelco AA2 running a double speed). The frequency of the blades in both machines is the same...48Hz...the velocity of the blades as they cross the aperture are not. This is easily observed using John's solar cell connected to an O'Scope. Personally, I find it easy to observe on the screen. Century used a double shutter to increase the velocity of their shutter (double it) without increasing its size. One can also decrease the shutter closed portion as well since there are now two blades to further increase the light. However...there is a penalty...each shutter will have some bounce to it due to gear lash and the reversing shutters goes through several extra gears...since each blade is bouncing differently at different times, there will be a bouncing hot-spot on the screen. This is further accentuated since the center is the last part of the frame to close and the first to open. A light weight aluminum shutter will have a violent bounce...a heavy steel shutter will have a more damped bounce....I've seen several mis-diagnosed xenon lamps (flicker) that really was due to shutter bounce on a double shutter.

Now, consider this. I've had some of the same comments about 100-degree steel shutters (Century part C1-D-50S) as some have made here about 3-wings increasing the perceived sharpness. This is also in a screening room like environment with a relatively small screen and low wattage lamps.

Steve

[ 07-22-2004, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: Steve Guttag ]

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 07-22-2004 06:58 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Matthew Jaro
Leo -- Why would you ever want to go back to a two blade shutter if you have a three blade shutter? Changing shutters on an XL is only a matter of minutes anyway.
Light loss; especially if you're dealing with a venue which hardly ever shows silents and started with two-blade shutters. If you don't have much spare lamp capacity to play with then you're faced with deciding which is the lesser of two evils: the flicker from a two-blade shutter running at low speeds, or the light loss of a three-blade shutter? If you go for the latter, then obviously you want to replace the two-blade shutter when you go back to running at 24fps.

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Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 08:07 PM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've got a friend here in Atlanta who, about a year ago, bought two new 3 blade shutters and installed them on his pair of XL's.

According to him, he could NEVER get the strobe out of the picture. After a lot of trying things, he returned the shutters.

Does anyone have an idea what went wrong? Is there a trick in the timing from a two to a three blade shutter?

Don

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 08:45 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
A small shutter (i.e. Christie) will have a more pronounced flicker due to its small shutter than a large shutter
Why? Isn't the perceived flicker dependent on the relation of the open and closed portions?

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 10:12 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The edge of a larger shutter crosses the aperture faster than a smaller shutter. A larger shutter's edge also crosses the aperture more closely to a vertical wipe than a smaller shutter does.

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Sam D. Chavez
Film God

Posts: 2153
From: Martinez, CA USA
Registered: Aug 2003


 - posted 07-22-2004 10:16 PM      Profile for Sam D. Chavez   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Responding to Don Furr, I would bet money that the blades were not all the same size. This will always create intolerable flicker as the brain is expecting to see even pulses.

As to Guttag, I and other perceive what we perceive. Studio guys like Jim Nord and others have noticed the same thing.

I used a modern Minolta spot meter that I still own. It was alleged to be able to handle either flicker rate and the current increase came out correctly if you do the math.

I'm not saying It's astonishingly different but it is not the same. There were many good postulates offered on this thread and there is something to it.

Perhaps the PK 60 handles the film in such a way that it does not pop or breathe as much as the DP75's on which I did my tests.

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 10:36 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Daryl C. W. O'Shea
The edge of a larger shutter crosses the aperture faster than a smaller shutter. A larger shutter's edge also crosses the aperture more closely to a vertical wipe than a smaller shutter does.
You mean because a relatively large shutter usually has the edges at an angle that does not go through the geometrical center of the shutter? That makes sense.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-22-2004 10:47 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
"A small shutter (i.e. Christie) will have a more pronounced flicker due to its small shutter than a large shutter (e.g. Norelco AA2 running a double speed)."
_________________________________________________________________

Actually the Christie double bladed 1440 rpm shutter was so awful for flicker that Christie ended up going to a single blade double speed as in the AA-2. Although the shutter is still the same small diameter as before there is now no percevable flicker in a Christie thats been converted over. Sure it going to have more measaurable flicker than the larger AA-2 shutter has and you could measure it with the photocell method, but to me the perceived difference in this respect is far more important than a reading.

Mark @ CLACO
(Live from Winnemucca, NV.)

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 10:58 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Michael Schaffer
You mean because a relatively large shutter usually has the edges at an angle that does not go through the geometrical center of the shutter? That makes sense.
That helps with the wipe being more vertical than diagonal, but it's the larger diameter that makes the edge move faster since the outside of a disc moves faster than the inside of (or smaller) disc.

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 07-22-2004 11:06 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Right. That`s what I had been missing all the time since I was fixated on the relative size of the blades and overlooked the total size of the whole shutter as opposed to smaller shutters. Thanks!

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 07-23-2004 08:22 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The vertical "wipe" effect has more to do with being a conical shutter rather than a flat one. If you look at a Simplex or a DP70, you will see that the shutter shaft is at an angle. Then the end of the blade is formed so that it cuts the aperture squarely.

When thinking of a small diameter shutter versus a large one...think of a clipped sine wave on an O'scope...a small blade will have less of its peaks clipped since so much time is spent actually opening or closing the aperture. A large shutter will present nearly a square wave since the transistion from open to close (or vice-versa) happens so fast. The frequency is the same, however...just like you can have square and sine waves of the same frequency but look and sound completely different.

Steve

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