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Author Topic: DIRTY PROJECTOR OIL Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-19-2004 08:44 AM                     Yea, Be sure to follow Gords guide lines so he gets to rebuild your movement again within a couple of years !! After 1000 hours regular projector oil in an SA or X-L has broken down so far that its almost not oil any longer...its also going to be full of metal and other particles that cannot be removed by the simple strainer in a Simplex . As for LaVezzi oil, I've never had the experience he's speaking of. Must be the Mars like temperatures making it thicker up there north of the border.... Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-19-2004 10:33 AM                     Never had a rebuilt movement come back and that was also the rateing of many manufacturers. As for Lavezzi oil I have several cans that were partially empty sitting around and they all have different weights in them and several other engineers I have worked with have compained about the same issue  |  IP: Logged John Hawkinson Film God Posts: 2273 From: Cambridge, MA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 01-19-2004 11:32 AM                     So, has anyone asked Lavezzi about this? It would seem good to do so and put the speculation/rumor to rest, or confirm it. --jhawk  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-19-2004 07:03 PM                     Never had to ask LaVezzi about it as I never had that problem. IMHO Gord should have complained to them instead of bellyaching about it here. Its best to complain to either Norm or directly to Al LaVezzi himself. I would think that Gord would at least want his $$ back anyway. Its expensive stuff to leave laying around . Also what the manufacturers had rated things at in the "old" manuals really does not pertain any longer to new parts. Many of those ratings were for parts they made in their own plants. The parts that are made today with the exception of sprockets are very different, made from different materials and in my experience are not as well made and don't last nearly as long as the parts that were made by the manufacturers themselves in the "old days". Old parts were much harder and believe me I've tested and compared quite a few old vs. new parts with a hardness tester. So if you prefer to have metal particles mixing with your oil go ahead and do oil changes at 1000 hrs! Hey, anyway, its fine.... many of us stand to make alot of money off those repairs anyway. Changing oil every 250 hrs, say at lamp rotation for those that do that can only help things, and believe me it does. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-19-2004 08:28 PM                        What about soundhead oil? For those who use SH-1000, RCA-1040 or -9030/9050, or similar soundheads, how often do you change it? Assume the use of either Simplex soundhead oil or 30-weight non-detergent motor oil. With Simplexes and Centurys, I've been pretty religious about changing oil every six months or so, but after reading Mark's comments, I get the impression that I should be doing it more often, particularly in platter houses where each machine gets twice the running time. I've never seen an intermittent fail and I know of a couple of Century Cs that have movements which haven't been rebuilt in twenty years and still run rock steady. What is the difference between "Genuine Simplex Oil" and "Genuine Century Oil," anyway? (Or is there one?) I've never seen LaVezzi oil.  |  IP: Logged Daryl C. W. O'Shea Film God Posts: 3977 From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from) Registered: Jun 2002 posted 01-19-2004 08:32 PM                        Who rotates their lamps at 250 hours?  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-19-2004 08:43 PM                     Scott, the SH1000 gearbox, and RCA's for that matter are another matter thats for sure. There is so little oil in those that its amazing they last as long as they do. Almost all of them I've ever rebuilt are pitch black inside from all the bronze partlcles. The drive pinion in them can also get worn to the point that the driving faces of its teeth have little what amount to little teeth worn into them...these will go through new gears like no tommrrow. Replacing the upper bronze , drive pinion and all the bearings at the same time is the best bet when rebulding one. I would certainly change its oil at least every 250 hours...its only a few onces of oil in there and its going to get really dirty really fast..... assumming your gearbox is tight and does not leak. I reccomend 40 weight non detergent but may soon experiment with 30 weight synthetic compressor oil in one reproducer at a twin near our shop and 90 weight synthetic in the other. The synthetic would certainly hold up better in what would be considered an extreme pressure condition...IE: the contact between the pinion and bronze gear teeth. As for projector oil hopefully if you get your oil from the units manufacturer they are still sending out what amounts to something close to what the original stuff was years ago. I can affirm that Simplex oil is still pretty close to what it was years ago. I reccomend LaVezzi in Centurys and DP-70's but its ultimately up to the customer to buy it. Some do and some don't. I'm not surprised that your 20 y.o. Centurys are still running well. I have a 20 plus y.o. movement, with 1/4" star shaft no less, in one of mine thats still running very, very nice. Mark  |  IP: Logged

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