my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Motor replacement for CFS Super platters (Page 2)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2

Author Topic: Motor replacement for CFS Super platters Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-18-2004 10:21 AM                     Just to update this thread, Stephen: Someone just gave me a blue CFS Super Platter motor to experiment on. It is a standard USA 120 volt model. There are a couple of ways to identify what Ametek-Lamb (www.ameteklamb.com) motor you have in order to cross reference repairing/replacing it. Ametek-Lamb likes to rubber stamp certain parts of the motor with some numbers. The Ametek-Lamb motor # 115750 (also known as the Grainger # 2M262) has the number "750" rubber stamped on the die cast aluminum bearing holder frame near the brushes. Ametek puts the last 3 digits of the motor number on that frame. Hence 750 = motor # 115750. Take the covers (with the toggle switch) off for a look inside several of your motors to see what numbers are stamped there. Sometimes the frame gets very dirty with carbon dust so be careful about cleaning it off lest you clean the numbers off the frame! Also, on the side of the field winding metal laminations is the Ametek part number for the field coil which would identify it's voltage. On the 120 volt models it should be rubber stamped "315737". The CFS platter motor I was given has never had anything done to it so it's all original. The motor metal laminations are rubber stamped 315737 indicating it's a 120 volt motor. The rear bearing frame is rubber stamped 750 so it is indeed a # 115750 (a.k.a. Grainger 2M262) motor! Perhaps it is one of the earliest versions (now obsolete) that had a longer threaded shaft for the CFS capstan (or "drive hub" as Strong/Potts calls them). You could order a Strong or Potts # 1190 Drive Hub (1/2" diameter by 2" long) and use that in place of the original CFS capstan. Ametek-Lamb did have some early versions of their motors with a longer threaded shaft but they are long since discontinued and were replaced with the length like on the 115750 (2M262). That's where you would now use one of the Potts or Strong "drive hubs" in place of the original CFS 'capstan'. The Potts/Strong drive hubs are made of steel and are drilled all the way through to make it easy to tighten it to the shaft with a pair of pliers and an Allen wrench. Just for my reference, is the power in Australia 220 volt or 240 volt?  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Worthing Master Film Handler Posts: 384 From: Hereford, UK Registered: Apr 2001 posted 08-19-2004 07:01 AM                     One common fault I have found is the switch on the motor. It has a bad solder Joint on it. This with the temperature the resistor gets up to it has a tendency to break the joint. As it under strain it is not always evident that it has broken.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-19-2004 08:38 AM                     I can't believe after all these posts that no one has suggested installing a REAL platter system in its place...... Dam "Stupid Platters" Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Worthing Master Film Handler Posts: 384 From: Hereford, UK Registered: Apr 2001 posted 08-19-2004 10:53 AM                     hmmm It's nice to have hold of the purse strings  |  IP: Logged John A. Parker Jr. Film Handler Posts: 21 From: Brevard, N.C., USA Registered: May 2003 posted 08-19-2004 11:14 AM                     If you have a complete system that runs on 120 volts, then you will have to replace the autotransformer as well. But if the whole thing is still at 120 volts, just buy a step-down transformer from 240 to 120 volts. John A. Parker Jr.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-20-2004 12:15 AM                     The unthreaded holes on the 2M262 motor are usually threaded to 10-24 threads if doing a Strong/Potts motor. On a Super Platter motor though the mounting holes are drilled out larger diameter and threaded to 1/4"-20 threads.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-27-2004 11:02 AM                     I successfully did a Super Platter motor with the Grainger 2M262 and definitely had to drill out and tap all the mounting holes to 1/4"-20 threads. I will be doing 5 more of these motors in the near future, I just need to pick them up from the theater.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 11-28-2004 04:01 AM                     Yea..I've done a dozen or so of them 2M262 Grainger/Lamb changeouts with these A3/AP3 Alpha/Strong Platters (if anyone want's a pict detail of how to do the changeout, my address is mlf1142@msn.com and I'll send you a pictorial instructions on how to do it that I've put together in saving hundreds of dollars from buying stock Strong "vacuum motors"..and most of these changes were due to the bearings going out, or the fan decides to go off-center and vibrates horribly-brushes are easy to change out..), and yes, after removing the front chamber cover, removing the nut, fan and belt pulley (save the washer..)remove the diffuser blades from the front of the second stage cover, remove the shim shaft from the old assembly that runs the "O" ring drive tire assembly, re-wire and re-assemble in reverse. Bingo-save a bunch. (yea, "StupidPlatters" - CFS is gone...like PerkinElmers -).. Monte  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-28-2004 07:20 AM                     Monte, And you can save hundreds more by sending the bad motors down to us for rebuild. Yes, they can almost alwyas be rebuilt. Generally costs about 1 hour shop labor. Mark  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-28-2004 10:20 AM                     Monte: I've already been sending out a step-by-step pictorial on how to do the Strong motors to Grainger 2M262 for over a year now. I have a thread here on the Film Handlers Forum discussing this already.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 11-28-2004 10:25 PM                     Thx Marko. I'll swing that by Robert and see if he wants to do that service that you offered, for I have a bunch of old motors needing rebuilt that we can use again that I've changed out. Being a "newbie" in this forum, it was worth a try to help out,for I didn't know that the thread on motor replacement was already posted. But since we're picking on the "Strong" side of things, (and if this has already been posted as well, please disregard): Grainger also have the microswitches for those brains that uses the (damnable) switch for the A3/AP3 platers that I've discovered recently. Grainger's 6X284 switch, where one must remove the spring underneath the tab to make the tab more sensitive to the payout arm. These are bucks cheaper than Strong's price. thx-Monte  |  IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2

Printer-friendly view of this topic

Hop To: Select a Forum: Category: Operations -------------------- Digital Cinema Forum Film Handlers' Forum Large Format Forum Ground Level Feature Info, Trailer Attachments & REAL Credit Offsets Category: Community -------------------- Film-Yak Film Handlers' Movie Reviews The Afterlife Bob Maar's Joke-A-Thon Category: Classified -------------------- Equipment and Supplies Wanted/For Sale Help Wanted/Seeking Employment Category: System -------------------- Software Beta Testing Forum

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.