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Author Topic: Unstable Century Gate Tension Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 07-31-2006 08:39 AM                     Carl, First off you need to get rid of those stupid "studio guides". I haven't seen a projector that actually didn't improve on its side weave spec. by removing them. They are usless anda nuisance! Really... think about it... there are no two strips of film that are exactly the same identical width... especially with used prints so what function do they actually serve? More likely to get in the way and prevent proper alignment of the film path. You only need keep one or two of the correct size guides and screws kicking around to re-set the gate clearance into the trap when the gate open/close casting is removed and put back. It might actually be high time to take that head out and have someone with a large granite surface plate do some measuring of its parts and their alignment..... Something is definately amuck in there for sure. Centurys are always sloppy in that regard but they usually do focus very well. Also check the top of the trap... the little attach points where the tops of the gate bands screw to. One of those little attach points might be stuck causing uneven tension of the bands. Mark  |  IP: Logged Carl Martin Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1424 From: Oakland, CA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 07-31-2006 11:24 PM                        i neglected to mention that the screen's at a bit of an oblique angle which complicates matters. also, it's possible that that trap was dropped once (not by me!). i'd probably catch hell for removing the studio guides but i'll check how much clearance there is between them. i'll have a look at the gate band attach points too. won't be back in until thursday though. anyways, i mainly just wanted to point out the discrepancy in the thicknesses of studio guides for those who use them to set the gate closure. maybe it would be better to ignore them entirely and reckon 7/16" between the surface of the trap and the flat plate with the runners?  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 08-01-2006 07:44 AM                        Just move the studio guides out to their widest position. The edge guiding of the film should be done by the fixed and spring-loaded rollers at the top of the gate.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 08-02-2006 04:05 PM                        Adding to John P's posting: The 4 screws that hold the large metal block that holds the gate knob asssembly are critical to focus & stability. We use a suitable sized allen wrench laid on top of the studio guide to assure that the gate is square with the aperture plate. On a Century it is critical not to "over insert" the solid film shoe into the film path. Way too much will "trap" the film up against the aperure plate, resulting in wear and film damage. Too loose is usually not a problem. Lowest possible pressure on gate should be OK, if the intermittent is OK. Louis  |  IP: Logged

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