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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Rebuiding Neutronic platter moter? (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Rebuiding Neutronic platter moter?
John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 04-15-2007 05:11 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey, Mark. You mean you don't have a tailstock camera mount? All the cool kids have one... [Big Grin]

--jhawk

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 04-15-2007 05:14 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yea, the brushes for the 2M262 motors are the 1R234 - both from Grainger Wholesale.

..just follow the instruction on seating the brushes before using the motor (which the instructions for seating the brushes are on the back of the package blister for the brushes), or the motor won't be up to speed right at the beginning.

Trick I use if I have a motor that died and the com is jet black and needs to be burnished back to copper, it to take a drill (cordless is more handier), remove the drive tire wheel assembly to make the drill attachment much easier,take off the collar off the motor shaft, put the shaft in the chuck of the drill, and with brushes removed turn the drill on and take some fine emory cloth to burnish up the com back to copper.

It's a cheap way to lathe a com back to shine, but it works pretty good.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-15-2007 06:37 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
or the motor won't be up to speed right at the beginning.
Actually none of the Strong/Potts(and pans) motors new or after rebuild run with the same tourque that they used to. This is due to a manufacturing change in the armature assy. itself. This necessitates changing the sleve on the end of the motor shaft which is threaded to a different diameter sleve depending on how it times out. I believe there is a Stong Service Bulliten on this change.

Mark

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-15-2007 07:21 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Monte said "take some fine emory cloth to burnish up the com"
Emory cloth is not a good idea compared to fine sand paper or crocus cloth as emory powder is conductive and if any gets trapped between the segments it will cause a ring of fire around the com

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Jeremy Weigel
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1062
From: Edmond, OK, USA
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted 04-15-2007 08:12 PM      Profile for Jeremy Weigel   Email Jeremy Weigel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey Mark,

Where do you get your rubber sealed bearings for the Neumade motors. I have had to replace several of these over the past few years and have gotten replacement NTN bearings from Grainger, but they're not rubber sealed.

I would also add that a "press" is also handy when trying to remove the bearing(s) from the shaft.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 04-16-2007 01:29 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
believe there is a Stong Service Bulletin on this change.


Yea, I forgot about that update bulletin..that the 1/2" x 2" sleeve has to be used on these new mods since the rotation speed of these newer Ametek/LAMB motor has changed.

(then, I forgot to mention on using that emory cloth, is to clean out the grooves with either a brush or compressed air..sorry on that, Gord..)

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-16-2007 03:58 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Jeremy Weigel
Where do you get your rubber sealed bearings for the Neumade motors.
Any large bearing distributer... Motion Industries or McGuire Bearings will have them.

Mark

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 04-16-2007 09:14 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Note that the motors used with Neumade Neutronic platter are not exactly the same as what you get from Grainger. The windings are slightly different and the bearing is a better grade because of the sideways load. The Grainger motor will work, but you might have to readjust the payout head for proper speed. Now if you move that payout head to another deck, it might make the motor run too fast or slow.

Also, note that the 'square' frame motor has been replaced with a 'round' frame type from Bodine. It's a better quality motor. The downside though is you must use a different mounting brackets for the top and bottom. The new top bracket is 11-0116022 and the bottom is 11-0116003 Rev F or later.

 -

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-16-2007 09:54 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John,

Actually the "Grainger Motor" we were referring to is the one for the Strong/Potts(and pans) platter. We get our Neumade motors from you.

Mark

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Jeremy Weigel
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1062
From: Edmond, OK, USA
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted 06-06-2007 12:36 PM      Profile for Jeremy Weigel   Email Jeremy Weigel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Any large bearing distributer... Motion Industries or McGuire Bearings will have them.

Hey Mark,

Which of these bearings(if any) from Motion Ind do you use?

https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mi/motion.jsp

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