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Author Topic: The right Neumade splicer model
Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-22-2004 06:45 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In rebuilding a Neiumade 35SS today it brought back just how crappily built these splicers really are, pot metal really and cheap soft metric screws,rubber feet that are just stick on and eventually fall off. From a machinists viewpoint its very cheaply made.

Isn't there a Hollywood splicer that will work. Sure they take the more expensive pre-perforated tape but they also last far longer and the parts when needed are far less expensive. Thay are also very well made! Once one learns how to use it properly it seems like a far better route to go for either gauge than any Neumade splicer.

Mark @ CLACO

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 11-23-2004 04:09 AM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'll second that, Mr G. We spent tons of money rebuilding our Neumade splicers this year, and ordered parts by the ton too. That is why I just ordered Ciro for our new location.
Christian - don't buy that stuff! It might seem like an interesting exotic alternative to you, but it is just as exotic as vehement diarrhoe on a vacation on faraway shores.

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 11-23-2004 04:09 AM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
oops

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-23-2004 08:16 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Michael,

You will definately have less breakage proglems with the Ciro splicers but the U shaped tape cutter blade gets dull way to fast. Be sure to keep those in stock... but the rest of the CIRO is much better than any Neumade splicer. I'm still leaning towards the Hallywood type splicer amnd a number of our customers have already gone this route. The only part on one that CAN go bad is the $2.50 cutter blade.

Mark

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Frank Angel
Film God

Posts: 5305
From: Brooklyn NY USA
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-23-2004 01:57 PM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark, I am always open to new approaches. Tell me about this Hollywood splicer. (do you have a picture of it?) I take it you need prepunched tape. It that still easy to get? I used to use it years ago, some on rolls and also the Hudson QuickTabs (they were quite expensive tho).

I am back doing some restoration work on a mag print now-a-days and find that I am going to eventually need a splicer with foxholes. Does CIRO make such a beast?

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-23-2004 03:54 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I usually find the CIR blades don't go dull but get coated with gum and that is what makes them not cut well

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-23-2004 07:27 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Pre-perfed tape is certainly available. In fact, some prefer it for the simple reason of no chads sticking to the film.

Studio suppliers like FPC, Hollywood Film Company, J&R film Co. and such supply it. Also Hudson Photo has their pre-perfed splice tabs that one of our customers swears by (T35-DP). 3M seems to be the big maker of the pre-perf stuff on a roll. It is tough stuff too.

For permanent work, no splicing tape is good...I much prefer ultrasonic or cement.

As to the Somar, aka Neumade, splicer...while it is indeed easily damaged...generally I only find it damaged in places where it can only be described as abused. In places where it is treated like a precision piece...they last indefinately.

If the operators are going to abuse the splicer, I am now going with Strong's splicer...sure it has a couple of issues but it has yet to break on me in one of those abusive theatres.

I don't mind the CIR splicer like some here do either.

Both CIR and Somar have CS splicers (or did)...Neumade supplied me with a 35CS just last year.

Steve

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Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 11-23-2004 09:17 PM      Profile for Paul Mayer   Author's Homepage   Email Paul Mayer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Frank, look for the name "Rivas" amongst the others Steve mentioned when searching for one of those perf-tape splicers. There always seems to be one or two listed on ebay.

 -

I have both 16 and 35mm Rivas splicers. Learned to use the 35mm one when I ran dailies and got pressed into service pre-making daily- and Kem-reel heads and tails. It is pretty much the standard splicer that film editors use. It takes a little practice to get both fast and good using one--I like it.

I also have the Tokyo Seiki (i.e. Neumade in the US) 8-perf 35mm splicer. I don't get to use it anymore but it makes great splices. I've never damaged any of mine so I don't know how well they hold up after such an event.

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 11-24-2004 03:22 AM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
If the operators are going to abuse the splicer, I am now going with Strong's splicer...sure it has a couple of issues but it has yet to break on me in one of those abusive theatres.
Actually the Strong splicer did look really rugged when they showed it at the recent factory training. They said it would survive a fall from the platter deck easily. But they didn't want to let us try it...

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Jonathan Worthing
Master Film Handler

Posts: 384
From: Hereford, UK
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 11-24-2004 04:19 AM      Profile for Jonathan Worthing   Email Jonathan Worthing   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Christian Appelt
most of you preferred the Neumade splicers
Who says

The CIR 16mm Is a good Little Splicer Less of a tank more of a piece of equipment.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-24-2004 07:44 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Michael, Zero, and I mean zero Strong splicers have come back to us for repair. They are in theatres were Neumades wouldn't last 2-weeks (literally). It isn't the most precise splicer out there but it does the job well enough for these theatres.

Steve

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-24-2004 09:52 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm leaning towards selling the Rivas type splicers more and more. While the Strong may be heavier and hold up against a fall or two it is a pain in the ass to use and also does not cut tape very well. I sold one or two, got to use two at different locations and never sold any more of them... a big dissapointment and a very good example that shows the lack of precision in its products which company cranks out.

There is also some very, very good tape available for the Rivas type units that allow you to make about a 16mm wide splice that will not fall apart. Quite a few of our customers are doing this.

As for the Ciro splicer I disagree with Gord, somewhat....yes the blades do get full of goo and can be cleaned but only once or twice and after that the blade has typically gone south and will need replacement. The blades last at least a couple of years on average. IMHO the Ciro splicers are built much better than the Neumade(no pot metal castings!) and parts are also a bit less expensive but not by much and typically they do not fall apart.

Mark @ CLACO

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-29-2004 02:50 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yea Marko... I had a Strong "doorstop" splicer at Nampa, and sent that "doorstop" to Overland for a trade for their Marble that was busted pretty bad, which was the results of being left on platter decks too much. Luckilly,I found some old Neumades all parted out, and with these parted ones, I manage to rebuild a Neumade for Nampa and can do better splicing with than with that "doorstop".

Any more blurb on those Marble splicers that we got a hold of also?

(Yep, I miss my Ciros that I had at EDW's, just couldn't get over the 5-hole splice configurations though-tough to use "zebra" tape with..)

thx-Monte

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