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Author Topic: Wet Film Larry Myers Master Film Handler Posts: 371 From: Herndon, VA, USA Registered: Jan 2001 posted 04-27-2005 09:45 PM                 Hi Talcum powder is not completely off the wall when it comes to film. It's used in most aerial recon films to keep the film from sticking together as a result of a tight rap. Larry  |  IP: Logged Mike Heenan Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1896 From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 04-27-2005 10:31 PM                     Definitely use some FG if you have it as described by Brad and others, the same thing happened to us twice with a leaky in the ventilation, one case the water was there for quite some hours and the other case maybe 10 minutes or so, and in both cases FG sprayed all along the edges saved the day.  |  IP: Logged Richard Greco Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1180 From: Plant City, FL Registered: Nov 2003 posted 04-28-2005 12:11 AM                     Well, I ran it through today. I seperated the layers and threaded up. Once I got the film going, It ran rather smoothly. I think that the head got wet since it was threaded early yesterday and wasn't ran till like 2 hrs later.  |  IP: Logged Don Anderson Master Film Handler Posts: 312 From: West Bend, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 04-28-2005 12:55 AM                     28 years in the film processing industry, and I have NEVER heard of anyone using baby powder or talc to dry film. The only other weird use for it was a short lived product to spray in your hair to avoid washing it. Remember that from the late 70s-early 80s???  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-28-2005 03:24 AM                     ..yet, I've heard, in the past, of many operators using baby powder when doing splices, especially the white gooey opaque variety...to get rid of the stickiness of that gooey splice...but OH!...what a "snow job" on the screen when the joins come together.... Richard, now is the good time to do either of two things: Go buy you a good chunck of visquine (plastic sheet stuff) to cover your prints with, or tell that SOB owner of yours to invest into some fitted platter covers that you can get from your booth supplier, so this accident doesn't come across again. Any form of platter covers is an absolute must for drive-ins. That should be an automatic policy for drive-in owners.. Seems like you can find another theatre to go work at around there.... -Monte  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 04-28-2005 08:37 AM                     I wouldn't recommend a regular platter cover for Richard. Those cloth ones if wet can make more of a mess on a print. The drop cloth/visquine stuff is the best solution, plus it's really cheap.  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 04-28-2005 10:52 AM                        quote: Larry Myers Talcum powder is not completely off the wall when it comes to film. It's used in most aerial recon films to keep the film from sticking together as a result of a tight rap. In that application, the talc is acting as a "matte" to help alleviate ferrotyping. Kodak actually coats very tiny (about 1 micrometer) polymeric matte particles on some film products. But talc will NOT fix a wet film problem, and will just stick to wet film as a gooey debris.  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-28-2005 03:51 PM                     I know you have nice weather in Florida but it's BOUND to rain in the window(s) again and MORE damage will occur. The first time it happens it could be considered an unfortunate accident. After that it's NEGLIGENCE! Basically, this puts you "On Notice" that such things can happen and WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. So... Why doesn't somebody go get a chunk of plywood, a couple of hinges, a handfull of screws and make a flap to cover the port hole when the place is closed? Cripes! There's probably a piece of plywood lying around out back, somewhere! Just go get that old, rusty saw down from the back of the tool shed and whack off a chunk of it big enough to cover the hole! With ten minutes worth of work you have assured that this problem will never happen again or, at least, you have done everything you could to prevent it. It's something so easy that even RICHARD can do it! JK  |  IP: Logged John T. Hendrickson, Jr Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 889 From: Freehold, NJ, USA Registered: Apr 2001 posted 04-28-2005 06:23 PM                     The Drive-Ins I worked at (many years ago) had shutters on the ports which were closed at the end of the night.  |  IP: Logged Kenneth Wuepper Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1026 From: Saginaw, MI, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 04-29-2005 06:25 AM                     All of the ports of our Drive-In theatres had metal "eyelids". These were 3 sided structures which protruded toward the screens and were large enough to keep rain out of the ports even if the glass was removed. KEN  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-29-2005 04:23 PM                     Kinda dumb for a drive-in in FLA not having port hole doors being the wet weather that state can get at times.... Who in their right mind (if they have any..) not think of this when this place was built? I thought that port hole covers was a mandatory thing for drive-ins, in the ones that I've seen. That's an absolutely no-brainer operation in not having port hole covers. No wonder of the dust problem as well (can you think how the machinery is without port glass and wind blowing dust and dirt around grinding around inside the machinery?) - better get those prints covered up pronto...! ...plus, not fixing that broken window pane as well... It there any upper management/owner intelligence located that this drive-in? That's a pretty sad place.... - Monte  |  IP: Logged Richard Greco Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1180 From: Plant City, FL Registered: Nov 2003 posted 04-30-2005 02:22 AM                     Well, I have addressed the problems and new glass is being ordered for the broken one. The 2 portholes without glass will be fitted with non reflective glass. There are covers on the portholes, the are just used at nighttime at closing.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 05-01-2005 02:42 AM                     Now, I have to ask this question: how big are the portholes and how did rain get inside the booth to get a print wet. Was it windy as well and blowing into the portholes to throw rain in as well, or is there a big pane window close to the platter that was opened to get a print wet. ...sorry, can't perceive how a print got wet if the platter could be that far enough away from an open window/opening... thx_monte  |  IP: Logged Richard Greco Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1180 From: Plant City, FL Registered: Nov 2003 posted 05-08-2005 04:46 AM                     Ok, I need to modify my earlier question... If a print got a little wet the night before, and the next day before it is run, can one use a little baby powder to ease the film through the brain? I don't think I was clear enough. The film DID dry.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-08-2005 09:05 AM                     Nope, no baby powder on film, ever.  |  IP: Logged

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