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Author Topic: Projector wont run, bulb lights..it just stopped. Michael Schaffer "Where is the Boardwalk Hotel?" Posts: 4143 From: Boston, MA Registered: Apr 2002 posted 09-28-2005 12:20 PM                        quote: Gordon McLeod It will often then devlop slip and run below sync speed which increase the heat inside Apart from the fan turning slower, why would the motor run hotter when running below sync speed?  |  IP: Logged Aaron Sisemore Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day! Posts: 3061 From: Rockwall TX USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 09-28-2005 12:45 PM                     Yoy may also want to check the breaker in the wall that supplies power to the motor: we had one leg of a three-phase breaker fail intermitteltly that would cause the motor to just randomly stop in the middle of a show while the automation sound and lamp kept right on going (causing many burned up spots in a print). After checking everything out several times (I too thought the motor was a goner) and calling several people it was discovered that the breaker has burned up one leg and would connect for a bit then heat up and disconnect, and reconnect after cooling down. Just another thing to check. -Aaron  |  IP: Logged Frank Dubrois Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 896 From: Cleveland, OH Registered: Mar 2005 posted 09-28-2005 04:26 PM                    They are Bodine motors. I installed a new Bodine motor (its all we got) and the motor seems to run at 1/2 speed. With a little extra nudge we can coax it into normal speed. The motor seems to be VERY hot for running only a few seconds at a time to test it. We replaced THAT motor with another motor, and the same thing happened. We then put the original motor back in and the SAME thing happened. All seem to want to run about 1/2 speed. We thought there might be some drag on the motor, slowing it down, but we removed the motor and held it while starting it up...half speed for a few seconds, then it jumps up to full speed by it self (this while its removed from the projector, installed, it wont reach full speed unless we give it a little extra help). I don't think all three motors can be bad..which leads me to something else electrical in the projector. I'm no electrician, so I I have no clue where to even begin looking. Ideas? This really sucks!  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-28-2005 05:53 PM                     Actually I've never had a Bodine Motor fail on a Christie P35GP and there are a ton of Christes out here in the Mt. States. A properly running Christie places almost no load on that motor. The motor you have may just be a 120/220 motor or may require a start and/or run capacitor. There are several versions of that motor and a call to Jum Greatz at Christie Digital giving him the part number on the motor may be helpful to you for getting the proper hookup for that particuluar motor! There are no Leesons available for the P35GP that I am aware of. Generally tracing the 120 volt line with a meter will show where its lost. Start at the automation wiring terminals for the motor circuit. BE sure the 120 volt feed is good forst, then leaving the manual motor switch on go right down the line and up into the projector. This is as simple as tourbleshooting gets . you could also work backwards starting at the motor... which ever is the more convenient for you. quote: Gordon McLeod Sync motors use permenant magnets for there fields and over time they loose there strength and then the motor looses torque Gord, None of the Bodine sync motors are permanent magnet. they are all 4 pole with machined qyadrants in the armature that lock the rotor to the frequency. Frank, Geez Drank.....The number one rule in this buisness is dont touch anyting until you are damed sure that you know what to do. Simply trying something as you have now done generally causes alot more trouble and greater expense. If the new motor has smelled in the least fomr over heating as it sounds then the enamel on the wire used for the windings has gotten mighty hot and that motor is also ruined. Call Jum Greatz at Christie tech support. Jim is a real nice guy and I'm sure would be happy ro help you. Mark  |  IP: Logged Bruce McGee Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1776 From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular. Registered: Aug 1999 posted 09-28-2005 05:53 PM                     Is there a contactor in your Christies? One of the contacts on it could be burned up and causing your motors to fry.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 09-28-2005 06:27 PM                     Jim used to be an EDWARDS tekkie before REG took over. Him and I had many-a-conversations on Christie topics. I do believe his last name is Grayton - I know it's hard to hear him pronounce his last name over the phone at times... -Monte  |  IP: Logged Frank Dubrois Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 896 From: Cleveland, OH Registered: Mar 2005 posted 09-28-2005 06:59 PM                    Mark, When the motor was stopping (assuming from overheating as many have suggested) I did nothing other than take the old motor off and replace it with a NEW motor. I never suspected anything other problems. It was supposed to be nothing more than a motor swap, after all was said and done, THEN I run into problems. Had I know this would have happened, beleive me, I wouldnt have even bothered with it. I've swapped out a motor before with no problems. I suspect deeper problems than simple overheating of an old motor....somethings up.  |  IP: Logged Floyd Justin Newton Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 559 From: Phoenix, Arizona, USA Registered: Jun 2002 posted 09-28-2005 07:16 PM                     Frank-- Don't panic..... just remember that the solution to ANY problem lies within the problem itself. ,  |  IP: Logged Frank Dubrois Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 896 From: Cleveland, OH Registered: Mar 2005 posted 09-28-2005 07:27 PM                    ...If only the solution was as evident as the problem..or..the problem was invisible as the solution.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-28-2005 11:14 PM                     Frank, You mentioned that the new motor had four leads and the old motor had two.... I suspect that is whats up..... If the old motor had two and the new had four how did you just swap it out? Mark  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-28-2005 11:46 PM                     If I guess right, Mark is hinting at the same thing I'm thinking. If you look closely, those four wires from the replacement motor aren't simply hot/neut. leads. You have to hook them up the correct way or else the motor won't work right. There's a datasheet that comes with that motor. If there isn't a datasheet, there's a diagram underneath the cover on the wiring compartment. There are markings on the wires. It's something like "X1", "X2", "Y1" and "Y2". For instance, you might have to hook "Y2" and "X2" together. Then "X1" becomes the hot and "Y1" becomes neut. I don't remember exactly. It's been a while since I worked on one of these. I think you get the idea. If you have 110v power you have to hook the wires up one way. If you have 220v you have to do it another. If you want the motor to spin CW there's one way. If you want it to spin CCW there's another way. Some motors even can be operated on single phase or 3ø. The old motor LOOKED like it only had two wires because the other ones are inside the wiring compartment on the back of the motor. The new one had all of them just hanging out because the manufacturer doesn't know which way you might want them to be hooked up. Another thing is the start/run capacitor(s). Sometimes they are pre-installed. Other times they are not. You have to check. I forget the details because it's been so long since I did it. Again, there is either a datasheet in the box with the new motor or there is a nameplate that will tell you this information. You have to read the information on that datasheet and/or nameplate then act accordingly. Otherwise you'll end up with a motor that won't work. One thing I almost always do is get out my volt meter and check the line voltage before I start. 1) It is a safety measure. If I'm working on a different voltage and I don't know it I could be in danger. There was one time when I got wise and didn't check. It turned out I was working on a 277 volt circuit and didn't even know it! One false move and I could have been killed! 2) It can help diagnose hidden problems. IF the voltage is different than you expected you now have the option of checking other components in the equipment to see if the problem lies elsewhere. One minute with the volt meter can save you several hours worth of work if you use it correctly.  |  IP: Logged Frank Dubrois Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 896 From: Cleveland, OH Registered: Mar 2005 posted 09-29-2005 12:27 AM                    The wires were labelled. 1, 4, 5, 8. I called the supplier of the motor and they advised me the correct combo. It was a matter of twisting the four wires into two pairs. If I needed the motor to spin the other direction, I would swap #5 with #8 for example. Even if that was the problem for that particular motor, that wouldnt explain the other two motors doing the same thing. They only have two leads coming out, so there was no chance to screw that up. I understand what your saying, but I think I took care of that problem by calling the manufacturer and getting the correct wire combo.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 09-29-2005 01:59 AM                     True, I thought that the motor for the P35's only had two leads running down to that terminal strip inside the bottom of the case. Cord looks like a regular 18/2 round cord with white and black leads. Heard to that reversing leads on these 4 lead motors will take out the start windings pretty bad. -Monte  |  IP: Logged System Notices Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi Posts: 215 Registered: Apr 2004 posted 02-06-2009 04:36 AM                 It has been 1226 days since the last post.  |  IP: Logged Janusz Antkiewicz Film Handler Posts: 40 From: Wroclaw, Dolny Slask, Poland Registered: Jan 2009 posted 02-06-2009 04:36 AM                     Hello Everyone! Since I can't see any separate forum for introductions let me introduce myself with my 1st post. Keeping it short and skipping the "name-and-age-and-nationality" part (you see that very well) I'd like to say that I'm not a very experienced projectionist (to say the least ) and would rather watch you guys trying to figure out things that crop up than offer my opinion. I think you're all doing an amazing job helping each other solve all sorts of technical problems. Now, to the point. I was totally pleased to find out that not only I have this problem with Bodine motor that overheats (and eventually breaks down). With my cinema it's a very serious problem since, having 10 projectors (motors), we replaced each and every one of them at least once and there are cases where we installed new motors twice or even for the 3rd time (we opened 1,5 year ago). So I begin my shift with a thought with my head: Which one goes off today? At 1st we thought that there's something wrong with the wiring: there was pressure to open the cinema as soon as possible and some things may have been done too hastily (we still tend to agree with this). A mile away is yet another cinema having exactly the same projectors (Christie P35GPS) and motors and they replaced "a reasonable)amount of motors. 2nd, we checked the belts as we were told that too tight belts might lead to motor overheating. Belts checked=everything's right>motors still break down too easily. 3rd, the wiring of motors were thoroughly checked for loose parts, connections etc. and still nothing. The idea that "these Bodine motors are just like that" doesn't convince me: is it too much too ask for a motor that works fine for a year??? That's why I don't believe that the manufacturer is here to blame. Don't know if you checked the Bodine Handbook http://www.bodine-electric.com/TechTools/ (pdf file) where on one of the last pages (213) there's a summary of common failures and possible reasons. I will get down to it as soon as I get the chance. PS. Sorry for any article, linguistic etc mistakes in this and my future post- please remember that English is not my mother-tongue.  |  IP: Logged

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