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Author Topic: Kelmar newbie - Rewinding through Kelmar cleaner? Ben LaCrosse Film Handler Posts: 27 From: Alpharetta, GA, USA Registered: Feb 2008 posted 05-18-2008 03:38 AM                     Old thread but pertains to me, ie stupid questions... Do you rewind the media somehow after a run? I looked at our cleaner and couldn't figure out how to rewind the damn thing. But hey I am a filmguard and kelmar newbie, so what can you expect? Also, on the filmguard info page it suggests that a 14 plex with 2 cleaners should saturate a fresh set of media each day to run in their respective houses. But I have also read to only saturate once a week and to use the same media for the whole week. What gives? Wouldn't this be a waste of product? Using new media every day, and then saturating to boot. I have less than 10oz filmguard, i've never had any and came across some by chance. This is my one shot to prove to mgmt that this product is worth it. If anyone has any suggestions on how to best utilize my lil bottle of honey, then please I'll take them. Until then, I am holding off initiating the 14x2 scenario presented on the info page. [ 05-18-2008, 04:52 AM: Message edited by: Ben LaCrosse ]  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 05-18-2008 10:48 AM                     When you buy film guard (or the film guard media pads) they come with keyed rewinding cores. So if you're using regular media pads then transfer it onto the plastic core that came with your film guard and then rewind it using the other core that fits it like a key.  |  IP: Logged Ben LaCrosse Film Handler Posts: 27 From: Alpharetta, GA, USA Registered: Feb 2008 posted 05-18-2008 03:27 PM                     That is just the thing, though. I didn't buy the filmguard. Corporate was in town and low and behold, made of honor was suddenly scratched. WEll, at 2a.m. sat morning I had to drive to downtown ATL to pick up a pristine filmguarded print. The manager and I got to talking and He ended up giving me a small bottle of the stuff. No key comes with that.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-18-2008 03:46 PM                     Picture instructions are here. If you are going to pick one print and clean it all week (maximum benefit), then you should saturate a new set of pads once a week and reuse it on that print the entire week. If you are going to move the cleaner around every day to a different print between 7 prints, you should resaturate the media every day, so each print gets the normal amount of FilmGuard on the media (not already partially dried-out media). Bear in mind you will have to change the media when cycling the cleaner like this every 2-3 days. If you are doing a demo, your best bet is to just pick one film and run it exclusively on it all week.  |  IP: Logged Ben LaCrosse Film Handler Posts: 27 From: Alpharetta, GA, USA Registered: Feb 2008 posted 05-19-2008 01:16 AM                     Man, that is freakin sweet. I love this site. I will using the "maximum benefit" scenario you have presented. Tonight I got out the box of old/nasty/scratched snipes and experimented. I spliced a few together, dabbed my gloves in FG, and got a good coating, then wound and rewound a few times with dry gloves. The splotchy-ness look of the film upon inspection made me think I needed to keep making dry runs. And honestly I was a little disappointed, until I ran the film through the projector. After I picked up my jaw off the floor, I realized this stuff is for shizzle. er something... If applied in the correct amount, what is the film supposed to look like? Kinda glossy and wet, smooth and even coat? Streaky when applied and splotchy afterwards?? btw, the experimental method I used was not through a spray nozzle. I put my glove on, opened bottle, put gloved middle finger/index finger over top and then one single shake to moisten cloth. Wrong method, right? Too much, methinks but don't knows. sorry for the edit... but whoa, wait! The cleaner in the "Threading 101" pictures is not oriented like ours. Our Kelmar Cleaner brackets are positioned at the top of the platter tree, perpendicular to the payout. Strong 3 deck platters. Um so only prints coming off the top platter can be cleaned. After the payout/brain, the film goes directly to the cleaner. The cleaner is positioned vertical, as well. Does it matter what position the film enters and exits the cleaner? If its vertical or sideways? And if a bracket relocation proclamation is to be signed, what kind of fundamentals should I follow? Feel free to slap me around a bit for all these questions. I can take it. [ 05-19-2008, 05:27 AM: Message edited by: Ben LaCrosse ]  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 05-19-2008 02:11 AM                     Any blotches you saw were likely a result of the way you applied the stuff (with gloves rather than the kelmar cleaner). Normally, your first run-through or two with the film guard will look like the image on screen has some water streaking but that's the film guard. Apparently if you apply the stuff to the media pads a day before you're going to use them, then the streaking doesn't happen that first show but you still get it cleaning well.  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-19-2008 03:03 AM                     quote: Ben LaCrosse ...honestly I was a little disappointed, until I ran the film through the projector. After I picked up my jaw off the floor, I realized... Yep...that's it.  |  IP: Logged Sean McKinnon Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1712 From: Peabody Massachusetts Registered: Sep 2000 posted 05-19-2008 09:53 AM                        You should be able to thread payout from any deck on your strong platter and as the film is traveling up towards the roller on the very top of the platter tree you should be able to thread the cleaner. The problem is that with the Potts style platter there is absolutely NO back tension on payout unlike say a Christie AW3 so that might cause problem with the operation of your film cleaner. I have seen somewhere where someone was able to modify a Potts alpha platter style payout head to use the christie rollers and provide some back tension. I dont remember where I saw it but that would greatly improve the performance of your Kelmar cleaner!  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 05-19-2008 10:27 AM                     Or you could just ask your technician to see if they could put a bracket for your cleaner on top of the projector since it sounds like there wasn't a good place for having it placed on the tree.  |  IP: Logged Sean McKinnon Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1712 From: Peabody Massachusetts Registered: Sep 2000 posted 05-19-2008 01:57 PM                        How does moving the film cleaner to the top of the projector make a difference in back tension?  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-19-2008 04:42 PM                     quote: Sean McKinnon How does moving the film cleaner to the top of the projector make a difference in back tension? Maybe the guy installing it also does massages?  |  IP: Logged Alan Gouger Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 501 From: Bradenton, FL, USA Registered: Jul 2000 posted 05-19-2008 05:22 PM                        quote: Brad Miller Picture instructions are here. Brad thanks for that link. I always wondered what those keys were for.  |  IP: Logged Mike Sellars Film Handler Posts: 34 From: Robertsdale, AL., USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 05-19-2008 06:17 PM                     I might be using mine incorrectly, so here's the deal: We have one on projector mount that we rotate through all 14 houses, one house per show, changing pads and soaking weekly on Wednesdays. If starting the cleaner on house 1 for the day, when house 1 breaks we move it to house 2 and then run it on house 2 for the next complete show, then house 3, ad nauseum. Based on what Brad said above, should we recharge our pads every morning? Should we just run one house per day as is suggested above? Mike  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-19-2008 07:21 PM                     You're not getting the most out of your cleaners by a long way. Judging by the fact you have only one cleaner for 14 screens, I'll assume money's an issue and a couple more cleaners are out of the question. So here's what I'd do... clean only the new prints in the house...one screen per day then move the cleaner to the next house for the next day. Re-soak the pads for each new print run. If the pads are looking foul then change them. Doing it this way, you should expect to be changing out pads at least two or three times per week. The older prints won't get a clean at all but should still be looking pretty good as eventually all your prints will be treated with FilmGuard. Ideally though, you need 13 more cleaners.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 05-19-2008 08:16 PM                     John put it best in the post directly above. And the Strong/Potts brain mod was something I did around 2001-2003ish. It is posted somewhere here in the archives. So which theater in downtown Atlanta has their shit together in the booth?  |  IP: Logged

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