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Author Topic: Christie AW3 Take-up Issue Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-09-2006 02:14 AM                     quote: I have been using the Christie method 70K at 70% which seems to work quite well. I use a tachometer and set RPM's to 22 RPM at 70%. This is where the simple mechanical/electrical comes into play with the AW3(r) decks - 1- get the mechanical adjustments set first (which is getting the notch of the shutter to be directly above the edge of the fotosensor by adjusting that small allen situated on the end of the return tang in the platter arm with the cover open..and power off. 2-After this mechanical adustments is made, there is the resistance settings of the LED with the "finger" at the 70 degree mark on the brainplate and having the 70k ohm reading on the VOM - as per instructed in the manual. 3- Then do your lo/hi pot adjustments per the 20 and 70 degree mark on the brainplate with the correct revolutions per setting. (and it really does help with a platter tach, but understand that not everyone has access to one..even though the cost a little over a hundred bucks from Christie..) If you got "platter creep" even with all that can be done, you've got a good chance of a fotosensor is starting to short out and an easy way to see is when the sensor is taken out of the arm and you look into the glass. If you see black inbetween the wavy lines of the sensor..it's starting to short out. Time for a new one. Done many AW3(r) platter timings...love these things if you keep them timed just right - and never had any problems with these units..(outside of shortened sensors and just get a sticky motor puk once in a while...lol) with the timing settings above. -Monte  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-10-2006 11:26 AM                     I'm not sure I'm following your instruction: quote: Monte L Fullmer getting the notch of the shutter to be directly above the edge of the fotosensor The platters I have worked on have a flat spot on the rod which the variable density filter mounts to. This pretty much defines the rotational position of the variable density filter. I do take a peek into the arm though to make sure the heigth of the variable density filter is such that there are no mechanical conflicts when the brain plate feed out arm is excercised to either extreme as well as the take up arm. I also check to make sure the take up arm white plastic hook is catching the arm on the variable density filter assembly properly. Are there additional adjustments with the variable density filter that I should consider?  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-11-2006 01:33 PM                     quote: I'm not sure I'm following your instruction: Sorry on this. Got ahead of myself. This adjustment gets the "V" notch on the 'wig-wag' arm over the "zero" setting on the brainplate as much as gets the notched edge of the filterdisc above the left edge of the fotosensor. The black tang that rests against that white "hook" has an allen set screw adjustment there - a real small allen set screw. This is where you make this mechanical adjustment mentioned above.  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-13-2006 12:09 AM                     Monte - You sound like a pro with these Christie platters. I was following you on the "wig wag arm", but: quote: Monte L Fullmer as much as gets the notched edge of the filterdisc above the left edge of the fotosensor. I have never seen a notch in the filterdisc. Also the brain plates used in my location have very worn slots in the posts which seat into the platter axle shaft. The mating slot is so sloppy that you can rotate the brain plate to the left and right about 1/2". On other platters, the pin which mates with the brain plate to keep it in one position have come loose and they slide out of position, allowing the brain plate to spin in circles. Do you know if this condition is repairable somehow. I have looked into the cost of new platter shaft assemblies and they are quite expensive.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-13-2006 12:26 PM                     quote: Eric Robinson have never seen a notch in the filterdisc If you look right on the edge of the filter disk with the brain in the socket and the brain in in the closed position, it should be there - a round notch. If you take the sensor out, the return arm out, then pull the platter shaft assembly out, the filter disc will stil be attached to the brain cam shaft..then you can see where I'm coming from. .and that is what you need - new platter deck shafts...and get those brain plate centers replaced as well that has no pin on them... Seriously, I actually hate "brain flopping" - moving brains from deck to deck on a continual basis, especially with the AW3 because of the wear that can happen with them if not taken proper care and usage. This will cure up a lot of your problems.. ..like trying to tune up a car with a distributor that won't lock down completely - you're not going to get there. ...can't figure out why those are so worn badly...unless the operators there are so brutal in handling these units...whom should be released immediately. sorry on this, but misuse is costly. good luck and thx - Monte  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-18-2006 07:43 PM                     I just had a look into the platter arm today and yes I saw the notch in the variable density filter. This is a good thing to know about. By the way does anyone know if the red LED sensor is any different than the green LED sensor. I have some older platters with red LED's and have run out of red LED replacements, I have plenty of green though.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-18-2006 11:53 PM                     I ran both colors..just means a different vintage of sensors, but they do the same task needed. There is a later version of the sensor,but I'm not familiar with those since I left the theatre that had the AW3's .. and was immediately blessed with adopting STRONG booths from now on.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 04-19-2006 04:58 AM                     Blessed??? Monte my friend, I'm afraid you have gone senile. BTW, the red leds are far more stable than the green ones.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-19-2006 01:20 PM                     ..should have put quotes around "blessed" LOL .. since I'm now stuck with these units...-monte  |  IP: Logged

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