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Author Topic: Bizarre projector mount Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-16-2006 09:09 AM                     quote: Phil Hill Mark, that Loc-Tite process looks interesting... Phil, Every Harley Davidson engine and transmission casting gets the Loc-Tite treatment! Theats why they don't leak any more. Mark  |  IP: Logged Tim Hull Film Handler Posts: 11 From: Chatsworth, California, USA Registered: Dec 2004 posted 01-16-2006 03:15 PM                        Hey Phil, Do you know a good powder coating company in or near the San Fernando valley? I'm located in Chatsworth and need black powder coat for these bases: http://www.timhull.com/supersimplex/super_project_web/index.html Also, do you know if it is possible to get the wrinkle paint applied after the powder coat? Thanks! Tim Hull  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 01-16-2006 05:49 PM                        Wrinkle, high gloss, hammer-tone, etc. is specified when the paint is ordered, just like the color. Not every color is available in every finish. Generally only one coat. Really it is fogged on and then "melted" in an oven. In concept, it is just like old style kitchen sink except instead of a "glass" finish it is a form of a plastic finish. Louis  |  IP: Logged Phil Hill I love my cootie bug Posts: 7595 From: Hollywood, CA USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 01-16-2006 06:08 PM                  Tim, there is a really good place close to you. Dunno know if they are competitive in their pricing, but their work is immaculate! Powder Coater Link  |  IP: Logged Tim Hull Film Handler Posts: 11 From: Chatsworth, California, USA Registered: Dec 2004 posted 01-16-2006 06:45 PM                        Hey Louis Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to stay away from the wrinkle finish and just use black high gloss powder coat. Phil - Thanks for the link. I have already gone over and met with these people. Their samples look really good, but I don't know much about powder coating so I just wasn't sure. Your recommendation makes me feel good about using them. Thanks! (hey, if i mention your name, will I get a discount?...jk) Tim  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 01-16-2006 07:06 PM                        Nah!! I don't think they know Phil, but if they did, they'd probably charge extra! Louis  |  IP: Logged Phil Hill I love my cootie bug Posts: 7595 From: Hollywood, CA USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 01-16-2006 07:12 PM                  Ya beat me to it, Louis! I was just going to say the same thing. Also, I agree about the "nostalgic" wrinkle finish... it only collects dust and dirt and is a PITA to clean.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-16-2006 07:55 PM                     Be sure they bring those large cast pieces up to temperature slooowwwly or else thay may crack from being subjected to 400 degrees to quickly. A good way is for them to be in the oven at the beginning of the day when its brought on line. Either way castings that large, thick and heavy will have to be pre-heated before they can be powdered or the powder will not fuse evenly. I like the finish on the SPECO arms and had my Super-LumEx end castings done in that finish..... I think its called "silver river" er something like that. Mark  |  IP: Logged Tim Hull Film Handler Posts: 11 From: Chatsworth, California, USA Registered: Dec 2004 posted 01-16-2006 09:32 PM                        Mark - Thanks a lot! That's the kind of information that is really going to help me out. I want these bases to be perfect. I'm getting ready to disassemble the lamphouse as well for chrome plating and black powder coat. I am little concerned about the tolerances on some parts and the thickness of the powder coat. Have you run into any problems with this? I have seen them run into problems with this on American Chopper on the Discovery channel! Thanks! Tim  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-16-2006 10:32 PM                     quote: Tim Hull I am little concerned about the tolerances on some parts and the thickness of the powder coat. Have you run into any problems with this? Absolutely have had excess powder paint problems, everyone has that problem to some extent. For holes a set of adjustable reamers is very handy for removing excess powder paint...... ya just got to be careful and pay alot of attention to detail. I forgot to mention that the only way to remove excess powder paint after its been fused is to machine it off! So be VERY careful at your masking job and be sure that it is perfect. The plater should be able to plug any holes for you before it hits the dip. What I do with the powder guy here is let the painter mask and plug and then I go double check his work before the powder hits it. Also keep in mind that no matter how good the sprayer says he is he can never get it perfect...... Manual spray powder lines like you will be using suffer from this while automatic lines suffer from it alot less, they also generally recover the excess powder that doesn't make it onto the product and then re-cycle it. Another tihng you will have trouble with is stripping the old paint off, some of that stuff, the 1040 in particuluar may have been Japanned black, some Western Electric equipment definately was and it was a common process back then. BEWARE THAT all of that old paint you will remove DOES CONTAIN LEAD! TAKE PROPER PRECAUTIONS! In Salt Lake City use a local paint removal place called The Stripper. We get XL and other castings back from them looking like brand new... and these guys do it all by hand! I have also used the Redi-Strip dunk strip method alot of times. Its expensive for something like you're doing but very affordable on large runs of castings like I did back in the Midwest... I used to take Simplex's and Century's there by the truckload! Its a smelly process and the castings stink for a while afterwords, you can smell the plant from a half mile away! I had my own paint system and booth back there but would never go that route again... it not worth it out here, the cost to paint stuff is oh so reasonable. Back there I used a Zinc Chromate primer followed by a bake on Grey Hammertone that I got from a local Chicago paint manufacturer (Durable Specialty Coatings) in 10 gallon drums. I think over the years that I used that booth and spray system it certainly paid for itself but the exposure to paint fumes and other related chemicals was not good for me in spite of the massive exhaust system on the paint booth. Customers that are still running those machines report that the paint has held up very well over the years. P.S. I forgot to mention that parts can also warp in the heat during curing/fusing. DAYOR! FYI: Durable Specialty Coatings 1925 W. Hubbard Street Chicago , IL 60622 Mark  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 01-17-2006 09:17 AM                        Mark; we do our own bead blasting with plastic beads and then have our own oven and power coat application booth. All is "in house." Powder coat is so tame that the dominant smell is that of a hot oven. Remember that masking must be done with high-temperature tape (Kapton, I think) Also, if you "bondo" any holes, then special hi-temp, metallic material must be used or the paint will not attract in the electro-static paint booth. Generally, we tape machined surfaces and re-tap holes. Some certain runs of Centurys are actually better with a little bit of powder coat in the tapped holes!! Louis  |  IP: Logged Ron Yost Master Film Handler Posts: 344 From: Paso Robles, CA Registered: Aug 2003 posted 01-17-2006 12:51 PM                     Modern plastic powder coat and chrome plating on an early piece of machinery?? Ewwwwwwww. Tacky. That's not 'restoration', in my opinion. Better to paint (if you absolutely have to) that which was Japanned and nickle plate that which was nickle plated originally. Ron Yost  |  IP: Logged Tim Hull Film Handler Posts: 11 From: Chatsworth, California, USA Registered: Dec 2004 posted 01-17-2006 01:55 PM                        Thanks again for the info everyone! Ron - yeah, I guess I'm really taking the hotrod route with these. Personally, I think you really can't go wrong with high gloss black and chrome. IMHO. Don't worry tho... I won't be putting flames on the side of the lamphouse! Tim  |  IP: Logged William Hooper Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1879 From: Mobile, AL USA Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-18-2006 04:31 AM                        Powder coat is a good-looking, tough finish, but there are reports from the auto enthusiast/restoration world that it splits into thin fissures over time, moisture gets in, & the material oxidizes unseen under the coat until it crumbles away. Sheet metal as you'd suspect is the worst: the first reports were from folks who thought that powder coating would be the grand final answer for painting floorboards (which are prone to dings & rust). It's like the problem was with undercoating, only made worse, since undercoating is more flexible. It came around again to the best solution for undercarriage & body is plain coach paint, sanding & repainting scratches (& the whole thing again when needed).  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-18-2006 07:42 AM                     quote: Louis Bornwasser Mark; we do our own bead blasting with plastic beads and then have our own oven and power coat application booth. All is "in house." Even though we do a fairly high volume I would still never get back into it and do it myself again. The price for powder coating an entire X-L or Century machine is far less expensive out here than it was back in the Midwest days. Our DP-70's are enamled as they are too large to heat evenly for powder application so I deal with a variety of paint people. Also one thing I really dislike about blasting anything is that it spreads lead into the atmosphere. No matter how good your dust removal blower company's spec's are its still going to let lead escape..... and thats a very dangerous problem. Even the area in and around the blast cabinet is lead comtaminated! (No, I'm not an environmentalist, I'm just cautious!) Also.... Pray you don't ever get a visit from the EPA! They are very strict with paint booths and related equipment of all types, some operations have to be liscensed by them, more so today than 15 years ago. But the lead problem is the main reason that I prefer to just have them done by hand the old fashioned way. That confines the lead and confines it to the person doing the paint removal operation. If that person is smart he will wear proper protective gear. At least at the "Stripper" the paint is disposed of in an approved manner as hazadarous waste. Mine system was kept "secret" at the advice of an engineer friend at GM that deals with the EPA for them on that sort of thing....... hopefully yours is too! Mark  |  IP: Logged

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