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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » DTS timecode drop out/TCR LED switching (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: DTS timecode drop out/TCR LED switching
Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 01-20-2006 08:26 PM      Profile for Frank Dubrois     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I guess my question is, if I know how to solder, would I be able to buy the LEDS from you and solder it in myself? Or are there scopes and other devices that need to be hooked up in order to "calibrate" or adjust the LED in anyway?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-20-2006 10:59 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I will only do them in house because of the equipment needed to align them. Also we inspect other aspects of the scanner such as drum width wear and bearings. If your reader has to be sent back to DTS due to the drum width being excessive then you can do it through us or we will be happy to return it to you and you can have your own dealer handle it for you.

Mark

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Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 01-20-2006 11:59 PM      Profile for Frank Dubrois     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thats quite a savings if we send it to you instead of DTS, the only problem we have then is we dont have an extra reader during the time that we send it off to you. Doesnt DTS send us the reader, then we just send ours in as a core?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-21-2006 12:13 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, they do. However for the savings you get I can't justify sending out loaner readers. It shouldn't be a problem running analog for a few days unless you have really really bad analog......

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-21-2006 01:33 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
..speaking of which...as some of us do the optical/CAT-701 LED power supply tied in with the motor start so the LED is off during machine rest, is there a way to do to the same with the DTS timecode reader's LED - outside of having the entire unit switched with the motor start to keep this LED off during machine rest.

Or, is this too complicated of a trick to do on DTS units?

thx-Monte

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 01-21-2006 02:15 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Monte:

It would be relatively simple to do what you propose. You would only need to interrupt pin 5 of the 9-pin connector to the reader (the +5v supply) in order to shut off the reader. Use a relay off the motor power and let that relay's contacts open up pin 5 when the motor is off.

Anyone interested in how can contact me for a diagram, or if they would like me to build a breakout connector for the TCR cable.

edited to finish contacts sentence.

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Jason Miller
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 241
From: Little Rock, AR,
Registered: Mar 2004


 - posted 01-21-2006 07:29 PM      Profile for Jason Miller     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I kinda want to hear Karen or someone from DTS input on this.

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Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 01-21-2006 08:27 PM      Profile for Frank Dubrois     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I remember speaking to hear about it once before. Basically its a "No user servicable parts inside, you need to send it back" type answer. I guess for the normal person, thats true though. I don't think I'd dink around with one, especially with the replacement cost being so high.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-21-2006 09:26 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree with Tony. Its an easy thing to do and quite logical.

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-22-2006 02:53 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yea, now to think about it, it would be an easy adaptation to do: pop open the cover, goto the DB-9 timecode reader socket, find Pin #5 for the +5vdc (which would be the red lead coming from the AT powersupply), snip the red lead and plop a relay inbetween the snip. If a small relay is used, then a stepdown transformer would be needed to drop the 120v down to the relay's winding voltage to do the trick. One can easily parallel the 120v leads for the transformer into the input lines for the AT power supply.

This all could be done inside the unit being there is so much room inside the case itself. Just have to bolt down the transformer some what to the case.

How close am I with this assumption?

thx-monte

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 01-22-2006 09:31 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Monte...a bit drastic and warranty voiding solution.

How about...put a 120V relay on the motor for the projector or use the "exciter" relay in an automation if the contacts are available...or have a relay that is triggered based on what format your sound processor is in...ie if in Non-Sync, no DTS LED...nixes potential multiple reversions at the end of show and the premature jump to DTS at the beginning too....the possibilities are endless.

Then make a special DTS reader cable that breaks out the +5 line to the relay contacts. Are you comfortable making up Dsub connectors? Believe it or not, most of the 9 pins in the DTS reader cable are not used. +5, Ground/Reference, TC1 (and TC2 for changeovers) and Reader status LED (the green one on the reader).

Depending on how you want to monitor when the reader LED should be lit, break the +5 line at that end and route it as necessary with some 2-conductor cable.

Steve

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-22-2006 01:55 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thx Steve for these ideas. I can then work with these suggested routes then.

-Monte

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-22-2006 03:07 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
I can then work with these suggested routes then.

What ever route you do take be sure to do it with the power off..... [Big Grin] .

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-22-2006 05:16 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
lol..duh! ...just like working on a computer... [Razz]

..have no problems working with Dsub connections. Used to work in a wire assembly plant where hand soldering was a mandatory part of the operation and working with all sorts of connectors, switches PC boards, et.al. ...

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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 01-23-2006 05:19 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
Depending on how you want to monitor when the reader LED should be lit, break the +5 line at that end and route it as necessary with some 2-conductor cable.
Why 2-conductor? Which cable do you recommend?

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