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Topic: Picture flicker on Christies

Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 04-03-2007 01:02 AM

quote: Phil Ranucci was the last to post
On the three-phase, 18 position rotary tap switch, look behind that switch and take a small socket wrench and double chek those nuts that are holding down the wires to that rotor switch plate, for if you have a couple of loose wirenuts there, that rotor switch will go 'kapooie' on you without you knowing about it..(and you wonder why your light output goes real dark all of a sudden..HMMMMM....have you checked this area out some per chance on this flickering issue, per any chance?

I had no idea that could even be a problem or how to even locate that. I will look at the SLC manual..I assume that rotor switch plate is listed there?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 04-03-2007 02:09 AM

quote: Phil Ranucci
Be aware that the ones you get from Christie now have much larger posts on them, which is good from a reliability standpoint, but bad from a service standpoint since none of the wires will fit and you'll have to put new terminals on all the wiring. We had some old ones that we swapped in. You might get lucky and go to a different tap setting that will give acceptable light until you can get a new switch.

Yep..been there and done that as well - had a plate burn a good sized hole (got a call from one of my guys saying that one house suddenly went dim and I knew that I changed a bulb recently. Made the dash to the cinema and I went to that switching area and immediately notices position '3' was burnt to no end, but it didn't harm '4' position. Thus, ran the bulb a little on the hot side until the end of the night when I changed a plate out) and had to use the larger style that we had in store..and had to spend two extra hrs changing out the ring tongue connectors to the larger ones on all 18 leads.

Another joy is to drive out that taper pin that holds the selector knob in place on the rotor plate shaft before I could take the defective assembly out.

Also, dbl check all of the 6 leads that goes on both ends of that contactor assembly bolted to the back of that selector baffle plate as well - had to replace a couple of contactors as well due to one leg likes to work loose and smoke up things a bit down there (and if you do smoke one up and have no spare contactor, get a nut type wiresplice and splice the two leg ends together for a good temp fix and wrap with electrical tape until a replacement contactor comes in for replacement).

some fun working with SLC consoles... - Monte

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Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 04-03-2007 02:16 AM

Well now were getting involved here. Before jumping into those items, I'm going to switch out the diodes first. I dont remember if I asked, but does anyone know what an empty rack would run? Or do they come packed with diodes? Just a ballpark figure would be cool so I could let them know what to expect.

Thanks again

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