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Author Topic: Tips for Booth Operations Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-02-2007 09:45 AM                     One of our bearing suppliers has the R4 in three different grades...the light duty grade seems to be a pefect match to the one used by Christie.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-02-2007 07:45 PM                     Repairing an AW-3 Slide Bar...... I see alot of abuse of platters in general but this is one of the more common abuses I see on AW-3's. Operators drop the cluster roller down the slide bar to the peg they are going to. Eventually this obliterates the roll pins that are pressed into the bar. The one in the photo was temporarily repaired by someone in the booth but it too fell apart. One can repair the bar if the holes for the pins are ovaled out by drilling and pressing in the next larger roll pin. I have a far sturdier way to repair these that follows. Some of you may already be doing this and some may not know about it... You will need a drill, set of common bits, three roll pins that are either the same diameter as the factory pins assuming the holes are not yet out of round, or three roll pins that are the next size larger in diameter if the holes are ovaled out. Either way the pins need to be at least 1/2" longer than the width of the bar. You will lso need a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel. If the holes are still round and you are able to stay at the same size pin you will need to simply drill using the same size bit as the existing hole but go straight through the other side of the slider bar. Then press the longer pin all the way thorugh until about 1/8" of the new pin exits the other side of the bar... or be sure that the tapered end of the pin is well past the other side of the bar. Next use the dremel to cut the pin off flush with the other side of the bar. This longer pin that is anchored to both sides of the bar will take alot more abuse over the short stubby pins that come as stock. If the hole is out of round as shown above and as I usually find then use at least the next size larger pin and drill the existing hole larger to accomodate the new diameter pin but again go all the way through the other side of the bar and then press the pin in until about 1/8" of the new pin exits the other side of the bar and then cut it off flush with the dremel tool. A few pics follow..... Use a vice to press the pin in. When its flush then tap it farther through with a hammer until the taper end is well through the other side of the bar. Roll pin cut off with Dremel and cut off wheel on opposite side of slider bar. Some of the typical abuse I see during routine service. The longer roll pin survives but the stopper plate is mangled and about to fall off! Hope this helps someone out there.... I've done about 30+ slider bars this way over the years and never had to go back to repair one twice.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-02-2007 10:18 PM                     If people are going to do this, make sure the bottom deck has LONGER pins, so that the roller cluster cannot accidentally be lowered farther downward than the bottom pin. All new AW3 systems are like this from the factory now.  |  IP: Logged Paul Konen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 981 From: Frisco, TX. (North of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-03-2007 02:10 PM                     Sure, Christie has done a few mods like that after I figure out a way around it. Regards to bottom platter. I attached small hose clamps under the cluster assy when in position for the bottom platter. It doesn't prevent from going below the pin, but won't let the assy be positioned straight up / down. Diode Racks. Initially, they had a standard 1/4 bolts to attach the rack directly to the struts. I changed them to carriage bolts and bolted them to the strut. Then place the diode rack directly on the bolt. This saved time when changing a diode and trying to get the bolt back into place. Now, they are using a much beefier diode for the SLC 30.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-04-2007 07:34 AM                     quote: Steve Guttag the light duty grade seems to be a pefect match to the one used by Christie. Steve, All versions of the R-4 bearing ARE light duty bearings from what ever angle you decide look at it. Being ABEC 5 or ABEC 7 only means they are specially selected versions with tighter tolerances and marked high spots. You need to be more specific... IE: No lube, dry lube, grease as they normally come, special lube, or just a plain ole $3.00 R-4 bearing.... the latter doesn't work properly though. Perhaps you should post the bearing number if you are going to be here to actually give any meaningful booth tips. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-04-2007 08:34 AM                     Sorry Mark...that is how the supplier presents them...it is an ABEC-5 grade stainless steel bearing going by the trade number SR4ZZ. However, our supplier repacks the bearings for unit sales with their number so I don't have the manufacturer's info...it is in an SKF section though I wouldn't guarantee it is and SKF. I looked at one and could not make out any markings but boy does it spin forever.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-04-2007 06:05 PM                     Yea, sounds like there's either no lube in it or some sort of dry lube. Pretty much equivelent to what Christie sells. There are no markings what so ever on the Christie bearings that I have in the van right now. Mark  |  IP: Logged Thomas Pitt Master Film Handler Posts: 266 From: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2007 posted 06-05-2007 02:54 AM                     Here's a tip regarding film cues. Measure the distance between the film gate and the cue reader in your projection setup. That way, you can precisely time when a cue will be triggered in response to a certain point on the film. Since most theaters will use the same projection equipment for each screen, once you know the distance you can add cues to your film prints when building up. It seems like common sense, but you'd be surprised how many film handlers don't do this! I go to a theater where they use Simplex Millennium projectors; the lens turret is fairly slow and requires 5-8 seconds of 'spacer' film to be spliced in to cover the changeover. Most film handlers put the cue mark at the beginning of this spacer film, but since the cue doesn't pass through the reader until a short time later, the spacer film (often a VERY scratchy spare piece of leader) is projected on the screen for a couple of seconds!  |  IP: Logged James Wheeler Film Handler Posts: 2 From: New Baltimore, MI, USA Registered: Nov 2006 posted 06-05-2007 02:16 PM                     I'd like to request a tip. I've been building a Super Simplex and I'm only a lamphouse and Exciter Lamp Bracket Assy. away from being functional. My request is a picture of what this projector looks like when the film is threaded properly. I would also like to know why the top reel is backwards. Thanks  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 06-06-2007 01:53 AM                     quote: James Wheeler I would also like to know why the top reel is backwards. We can give thanks to Mr. Edison that began that "B" (anti-clockwise rotation) wind of the supply reel... You can take a peek at this manual for the SuperSimplex  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-07-2007 10:32 PM                     Mainly for JHawk..... but also for anyone else interested. This is the boost-1 that Neumade makes for those older lowly IREM rectifiers that can't put out enough no-load DC to properly start a lamp. Typically you will find these rectifiers running on 208 3 phase and the no-load to be less than 80 volts DC, I had two that were outputting less than 75 volts! Acording to John Walsh at Neumade these older rectifiers are actually intended to operate on 380 volts 3-phase which is the more common AC supply in Europe and at that voltage they do indeed supply 130 volts no-load, later IREM rectifiers are specifically wound for the measly lower AC voltages found here in the U.S.. The Boost-1 is an independent dc supply that raises the no-load to 130 volts and it will work with up to 3kw lamps. It shuts off the instant the lamp ignites. It can be mounted on the rectifier provided you have one of the larger units or at the lamphouse, I don't know how this thing would fit inside a console....? I mounted these on the lamphouse pedestal of the DP-70 and it made it very easy for hookup. It definately works too just as it should, there is light before you hear the clunk of the rectifier's contactor. Mark  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 06-08-2007 02:17 AM                     (I love it when yu see booths that keeps their bulb carriers clamped around the rectifier cables....)  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-08-2007 05:13 AM                     Really Monte? Why is that? I prefer to find booths where they save not only the bulb carrier but also the BOX that has the serial number and such printed on it for potential warranty return.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-08-2007 07:17 AM                     quote: Brad Miller I prefer to find booths where they save not only the bulb carrier but also the BOX that has the serial number and such printed on it for potential warranty return. Brad, How unthinkable! Return a Christie lamp thats under warranty.... almost never! We haven't had a Christie lamp to return in warranty in at least several years. This is not our customer that runs them for anywhere from 12,000 to 19,000 hours though... its a different guy and he thinks that guy is crazy. They are so reliable that this customer goes by years of use... not by hours. It equates only to an average of about 2500 hours on a 3kw and 4000 hours on the 2kw's... its a shame to pull em actually but he does. His minimum use time is 1 year and all are grind operations, they stay that length unless they become unstable. Ok, that happens to a 3kw after 2,000 hours sometimes. Notice thats the older style Christie bulb housing that hasn't existed for over two years. Can't say the same for Osram or LTI though.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 06-08-2007 12:55 PM                     (lol..way too funny.) Oh, it's obvious why of the carrier clamped to the cables and fully understand, just that it's a bit comical seeing the carrier stored this way instead of putting the carrier in the box and having all of it stored in booth storage areas...but that's just me ... (But do a rare case in years: I did have a CXL-25SC die on me with 800hrs on it...just waiting for the warranty return confirmation and return procedures..)  |  IP: Logged

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