my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Using an oil additive to prolong life of parts such as duralube or slick 50 (Page 3)

This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4

Author Topic: Using an oil additive to prolong life of parts such as duralube or slick 50 Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-27-2007 02:18 PM                        I change about every week, this might be on the heavy side, I have seen others post on here that they do not change for months, I'm not sure it that is the right way to do it. All I can say is changing often is not going to hurt a thing, other then cost you more money. If your oil is turning dark black then this could mean your getting metal wear. I also use a special tool I developed to help direct the draining oil from the intermittent; (Picture is in the "booth tips" thread)it really helps to keep the oil from running all over the place. Mike  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-27-2007 03:43 PM                     Well, I've been sold on synthetics for years now. First used Mobil-1 in my 95 Dodge V-10 and this is about when I started using them in projctors. The Dodge always passed emissions very cleanly and the emission quantities never changed over the 4 years and 160,000 miles I drove it. Same for my Land Rover which has an alumnium engine and is required to use Synthetics... and they are very specific on which brands to use with Castrol and Mobil-1 being 1st and second on their list. With 64,000 miles on the Land Rover the engine still runs like new and has always passed emissions by a mile every year. Mark  |  IP: Logged Jon Miller Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 973 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 05-27-2007 04:47 PM                     quote: Monte L Fullmer I have a XL that would blacken the oil a week after a changeout, thus, I drained the dirty out then put ATF in the gearing and let it run for a couple of months. What type of ATF did you use, Monte? Was it Dexron III/Mercon, Type F, or some other type?  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 05-27-2007 08:04 PM                        No; flushing oil out with fresh is always good. I once had a car with an alumium block and BLACK oil. Oil change every 500 miles for 2500 miles took out all the impurities and from then on the oil was only slightly discolored at the normal oil change interval. This was a used car with 60k miles; I don't think the previous owner ever changed the oil.Louis  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-27-2007 09:00 PM                     quote: I have a XL that would blacken the oil a week after a changeout, Then I would say you have a serious problem with that X-L Monte.... You should have looked for and fixed the problem first. Louis..... Was it the alumnium block Buick Engine you had? Those ere pretty good engines and are actually the basis of the V-8 Land Rover engine. Mark  |  IP: Logged Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-27-2007 09:54 PM                        Yes! Mark is right, if oil is black when you change it from a machine, whether it is a projector, lathe, mill, or anything with gears, that is an indicator of metal that is in solution with oil; indicating that excessive wear is taking place. Mike  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 05-27-2007 10:16 PM                        1962 Buick V6 Louis  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 05-28-2007 02:37 AM                     One way I've seen Simplex Oil blacken is when they will assemble them with shielded bearings...that have lubricant...the oil will leach out the bearing lube and contaminate the oil.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 05-28-2007 03:36 AM                     quote: What type of ATF did you use - Dexron III/Mercon, Type F, or some other type? Dextron is what I used. I have to go along with what Steve mentioned is that the front shutter bearing did have shields on it, which afterwards I took the shields off and there was a bit of black crud inside this bearing which I washed out with WD-40 and then shot oil inside the races to relubricate before reassembly. I still let the machine use the ATF til the fluid remained red, then I flushed out the ATF and put in the regular oil and it's been staying clean ever since. Heard stories that with the use of AMSOIL on certain motor teardowns that with motors with over 220k miles on them, the mechanics would just put the motor back together and tell the operators that the motor still looks and is tight like new...no major wear factors esp. in the main bearing areas..  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 05-28-2007 06:20 AM                        Besides lubrication, oil has another function: removing particles that need to be not there. That is why you have oil changes; it is not because the oil "is bad." In fact, oil can be recycled probably forever, if allowed to stand still in a tall flask and the impurities allowed to settle. It's not worth it, of course. Louis  |  IP: Logged Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-28-2007 07:27 AM                        Any average oil does reduce friction by a coefficient of 0.025, Some are better some are worse, but when you consider that steel rubbing against steel without any oil has a coefficient of friction of about 0.45 a reduction is needed. The reason why Bronze is uses for bushings and bearings itself and steel have a coefficient of friction of about 0.22, and so when oil is added you reduces that number by about 0.025. (0.195); the difference in size of number may appear small; however in the world of friction it is huge. If you take motor oil, and put it on a slide and look at it under the microscope, you will see dirt particles, and yes little shards of metal. I have done this before and it cool to see; and is one of the test that material scientist and tribologist do when analyzing oil. The last I read about oil recycling was that the filtering process is rarely used in the USA anymore to re-fine the oil and reconstitute it back to its original form used in cars and trucks. Because of the tighter tolerances, and demands of modern engines; it can not be reused. However it is used in bunker oil to thin it down and is blended back into fuel oil to burn in your house, it just has higher ash content due to dirt, impurities, and metal flake. Some countries may still use the filter technique and reuse the oil in cars and trucks. Mike  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-28-2007 03:10 PM                     quote: Michael Moore If you take motor oil, and put it on a slide and look at it under the microscope, you will see dirt particles, and yes little shards of metal. All the better reason to use pure synthetics since they are created in the lab so to say... They are far cleaner out of the bottle... they don't come out of the ground. They also reduce the friction far more than regular oil does. Stating that steel on steel coeffiient is pretty vague since nothing I can think of runs steel on steel... certainly no car engine and no projector does that I can think of. If the fit is metal on metal then some sort of bearing material.. bronze, cast iron, babbit, or an alloy of some sort is always used. Having built alot of model steam engnes over the years I love steel running on cast iron... like your Super Simplex... Lasts for ever if oiled properlyand the cast iron age hardens... gets tougher with age. Mark  |  IP: Logged Michael Moore Expert Film Handler Posts: 188 From: Dover, DE / USA Registered: Jun 2006 posted 05-28-2007 07:26 PM                        Are ball bearings made of steel alloy? do they rub against each other and against the race (also steel alloy)? is that not steel against steel? I did mention Bronze and steel (0.22). Mike  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-28-2007 07:47 PM                     Actually bearings are normally made of steel that has very high chrome/nickel content... the alloy is very very hard. IN excess of RC 65 to 70.  |  IP: Logged Bill Enos Film God Posts: 2081 From: Richmond, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2000 posted 05-28-2007 08:24 PM                     ATF is an excellent low viscosity gear oil which as described above has lots of additives that would make it ideal for use in a projector. I drained our XLs and refilled with Amsoil DexronIII/Mercon all synthetic ATF. When the first machine was turned off after the first 6K reel after the change, it was noticeably freer to turn, so much so that I made a comparison with the other machine which had not been changed and had been off for about 45 min. After running it for a minute or so I did the comparison again, still the synthetic lubed XL was a lot easier to turn. After the second machine was changed they were both the same. Only problem I can see is that they might be running a frame or two faster.  |  IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4

Printer-friendly view of this topic

Hop To: Select a Forum: Category: Operations -------------------- Digital Cinema Forum Film Handlers' Forum Large Format Forum Ground Level Feature Info, Trailer Attachments & REAL Credit Offsets Category: Community -------------------- Film-Yak Film Handlers' Movie Reviews The Afterlife Bob Maar's Joke-A-Thon Category: Classified -------------------- Equipment and Supplies Wanted/For Sale Help Wanted/Seeking Employment Category: System -------------------- Software Beta Testing Forum

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.