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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Lamphouse Air Temperature (Page 3)

 
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Author Topic: Lamphouse Air Temperature
Michael Schaffer
"Where is the
Boardwalk Hotel?"

Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 06-11-2007 11:05 PM      Profile for Michael Schaffer   Author's Homepage   Email Michael Schaffer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
We super cool too.
Sorry Mark, but you aren't cool. Certainly not as cool as Louis. That's nothing personal, I am just stating the obvious.

Speaking of the obvious, some lamphouse manufacturers warn about having *too much* air exhaust, and I wondered, why? Obviously, no one is going to cool the lamp down to freezing temperatures, so that shouldn't be an issue. Constantly repeated heating and cooling cycles could be, but since the air exhaust runs continuously, that wouldn't apply - the lamp would just heat up to a certain temperature and then level out.

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 06-12-2007 05:39 AM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK, it's time to OCR Osram's engineering document...*done*.
Let me email it to Brad...

Michael asks, "Why?"

Osram says, on p.25, "Excessive cooling is not good because it too can bring about increased arc instability due to turbulence in the lamp bulb. If the lamp voltage with cooling falls by more than 1 volt compared with uncooled operation, this normally means that cooling is excessive."

In some more detail, on p.32, they detail causes of arc instability, noting, "Bulb cooling: excessive forced bulb cooling increases the temperature gradient between arc and bulb wall, resulting in greater radial gas flow and turbulence which mainly affect the tail of the arc."

--jhawk

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 06-12-2007 10:25 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Michael Schaffer
Obviously, no one is going to cool the lamp down to freezing temperatures, so that shouldn't be an issue.
Try the Teton Theater in Jackson Hole, or the Roman Theater in Red Lodge, MT. Both locations quite often go to more then 20 below which brings the booth temps during closed time to in the freeing range. Heat in the building comes up an ahour before opening but the booths take some time to gt that heat. neither location seems to be affected much by the cold... except for the projector oil.

Mark

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Dan Reiter
Film Handler

Posts: 74
From: Easton PA
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 06-12-2007 10:53 AM      Profile for Dan Reiter   Email Dan Reiter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The most important aspect of lamp cooling is to not allow a major differential between the positive & negative ends of the lamp, a major differential between the ends and the seals, nor allow it to overheat. As well, the bulb does need to come up to an operating temperature so that all the gasses and internal parts heat up properly and "do thier thing". All manufacturers use different methods to cool the lamphouse and lamp itself. As long as the bulb does not discolor, it runs at normal specs, and there is no Anode or cathode damage, and the flame is steady & true, the lamp is running OK.

And, as we all know, cooler is better than hotter.

All said wearing my SQP work hat.

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 06-28-2007 09:52 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wow. Tonight I saw one of the scarier things I'd seen in a while. We were doing some lamphouse voltage measurements, and I needed my Fluke hooked up across the bulb terminals. So I ran two sheathed banana leads (you have to really try in order to make contact with them) out of the lamphouse, closed it up, and struck the bulb.

As the igniter pulse was going, the entire negative lead (a Fluke TL22) literally glowed (through the insulation). It was like there was a purple fluorescent light on inside the test lead. It was really quite something.

It certainly drives home why you should never have a digital meter hooked up when you strike the lamp (I didn't!)! I wish I'd been recording it on a camera...

--jhawk

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 06-28-2007 10:11 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I am aware of the Osram statement about overcooling.

My experience is that overcooling is bunk; even though Osram says so. Louis

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 06-30-2007 03:13 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I must add here, that sometime ago I was having problems with lamps (Osrams) igniting in my Kneisleys. With the advice of Mark G, Louis and Brad M. and others, I installed the Grainger/Dayton 550CFM blowers on top of each of the lamphouses. Each exhaust through it's own 10" flex duct to the outside.

Previously they had been exhausted with a single system that had been installed when the building was built, it was deteremined that it was only providing approx 100CFM of exhaust per lamp house.

All I can say is wow, it has made all the differance in igniting, stability of arc, and increased hours on the bulbs...just as everyone told me it would. Bulb envelope's are still good and clear even at 2500hrs and up.

I believe it might pass Louis's test of sucking up a shop rag. [Wink]
Thanks Guys.

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