Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: ORC 1000 Automation Wiring

my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

»	Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE » Operations » Film Handlers' Forum » ORC 1000 Automation Wiring (Page 2)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2

Author

Topic: ORC 1000 Automation Wiring

Bernie Anderson Jr
Master Film Handler

Posts: 435
From: Woodbridge, New Jersey
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 02-21-2010 11:56 PM

Hey Sean,

I took a look at the lamp again tonight. Everything up to the first interlock (which is the only one) is high voltage and high current. There is really no "real" safety circuit. I pull the relay to see what would happen. Of course it wouldn't like, put you still can hear that the transformer's powered, although the lamp was off. Here's the schematic for this particular version. See what you think? ORC 1000 Electrical Schematic I'm starting to think that a 18-20 amp 110vac relay might be the easiest way to go.

Thanks

| IP: Logged

Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 02-22-2010 07:36 AM

With this particular unit you could switch the incoming 120V A/C because the entire unit runs off of that single phase "house" current unlike most other xenon lamp houses/power supplies. However, it may become an issue where if you modify something inside of a unit it would not require an electrician, if you modify the power coming into the unit then you might need an electrician. I would add a relay (or use your automations existing lamp control relay) between "cb1" and "s1" or between "s2" and "tb1"

What kind of automation are you using? Your automation should have a 120V AC relay for the lamp. I am not sure what you mean by "high" voltage. If you mean the 120V ac "house" current then that is what you are looking to switch with that relay. The only low voltage will be what the automation sends to open/close that relay. The relay itself should be built to pass 120V ac.

If you are unsure about running wires into your automation to carry 120 Volts you could install a similar relay inside the unit (If there is room) and run the low voltage control circuit to the lamphouse if that makes you more comfortable. That way you would not have to "splice" any 120 Volt wires.

| IP: Logged

Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004

posted 02-23-2010 12:06 AM

quote: Sean McKinnon
Your automation should have a 120V AC relay for the lamp. I am not sure what you mean by "high" voltage. If you mean the 120V ac "house" current then that is what you are looking to switch with that relay. The only low voltage will be what the automation sends to open/close that relay. The relay itself should be built to pass 120V ac.

Sean, stop right here! The relays in most automations for the lamp are designed to handle at MOST 5 amps at 120 volts!! You will fry the relay and possibly the automation's wiring if you try to control the 13-plus amps of one of those ORC's. The lamp relay in automation is intended to only pull in the rectifier contactor of a standard lamphouse.

Even the motor relays are usually rated at only ten amps.

Bernie, use an outboard relay with at least 20 amp contacts rating and let your automation switch that outboard relay. Use 12 gauge wire to connect the contacts and make sure all connections are tight.

| IP: Logged

Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-23-2010 07:13 AM

Tony is correct the automation relays will not handle the full lamphouse current
that said the normal relay used in most automations are 10a for the 120 circuits
put a contactor in serries with the lamphouse feed and swithc it

| IP: Logged

Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 02-23-2010 05:45 PM

At fist I thought these units had a built in contactor. That is what I intended for him to switch with his automation was a 120v 5amp circuit. On my last post I meant to say that he should install a seperate relay (contactor) either in his automation or in the unit if there was room but I realize now re reading what I wrote that it was not what I said. I will edit it for any future readers.

Well the forum wont let me edit it as it has been too long. The following is how I should have written my post;

With this particular unit you could switch the incoming 120V A/C because the entire unit runs off of that single phase "house" current unlike most other xenon lamp houses/power supplies. However, it may become an issue where if you modify something inside of a unit it would not require an electrician, if you modify the power coming into the unit then you might need an electrician. I would add a relay capable of handling 120 volts at 20amps between "cb1" and "s1" or between "s2" and "tb1"

What kind of automation are you using? Your automation should have a 120V AC relay for the lamp but you will not want to use that as it will not handle the current of the lamphouse. You can replace it with a relay capable of latching with your automation but able to pass 120 Volts at 20 amps. The only low voltage will be what the automation sends to open/close that relay. The relay itself should be built to pass 120V ac at 20 amps.

If you are unsure about running wires into your automation to carry 120 Volts you could install a similar relay inside the unit (If there is room) and run the low voltage control circuit to the lamphouse if that makes you more comfortable. That way you would not have to "splice" any 120 Volt wires.

| IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2

Printer-friendly view of this topic

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.