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Author Topic: Correct oil to use in a Simplex 35 Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 10-11-2008 07:12 AM                        We stock at least 110 gallons at all times. Louis (Hadden)  |  IP: Logged Robert Minichino Master Film Handler Posts: 350 From: Haskell, NJ, USA Registered: Dec 2005 posted 10-11-2008 09:48 AM                        If you decide to use an ATF for the long term, make sure you choose one with an ASTM D-130 copper strip corrosion class of 1 (1a or 1b). Any higher and the lube will corrode yellow metal bushings. Also a good reason to avoid API GL-5 gear oils as the amount of sulfur-bearing anti-wear additives will also attack yellow metal (API GL-4 is generally safe).  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-11-2008 11:14 AM                     You guys can experiment all you want... your machines only have to run say another 5 years at best... I personally try to avoid using or selling any sulphur based anything... Always synthetic if at all possible. The word sulphur, crude oil, and varnish don't exist in this world. The words long life, no wear, still looks new, runs smoother all come into being. Also, haven't used anything but synthetic in my cars for many years. Mark  |  IP: Logged Robert Minichino Master Film Handler Posts: 350 From: Haskell, NJ, USA Registered: Dec 2005 posted 10-11-2008 11:27 AM                        You mean like molybdenum disulfide, Mark? Other more complex sulfur-based EP additives with active sulfur can also corrode copper and yellow metals, but in moderate amounts they can be balanced with anti-corrosion additives. Lubricants with heavy EP additives are often made from extreme hydrocracked or synthetic base stock that contains little to no sulfur itself. So active sulfur content has little to do with quality when it comes to lubrication, you just need to make sure you have the right lube for your application.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-11-2008 10:59 PM                     quote: Robert Minichino Also a good reason to avoid API GL-5 gear oils as the amount of sulfur-bearing anti-wear additives will also attack yellow metal (API GL-4 is generally safe). (..a bit off-topic here: .. and I remember a syn oils salesman telling me that GL-5 is good stuff in a FWD transaxle setup..and I just about flipped! 'Wanna see the syncros disappear in a couple of years in my tranny?')  |  IP: Logged Louis Belloisy Expert Film Handler Posts: 120 From: morris, ct usa Registered: Jun 2006 posted 10-12-2008 03:24 PM                        compressor oil is a good substitute for simplex oil. louis  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 10-12-2008 03:46 PM                     Good grief people, the quart can of GENUINE Simplex oil isn't THAT expensive!!! And a quart can has enough oil for anywhere from 5-10 machines. Why risk blowing an intermittant in the middle of a show (and we all know that it'll only happen with a full house on Friday night) trying to save a few bucks? Sheesh. On the other hand, as long as you're in the L.A. area, go ahead and play around with the oil, I'll make money selling you a rebuilt intermittant and the proper oil. There are plenty of other areas to save money in a cinema operation, experimenting with the most important piece of equipment in your business is NOT one of those areas. To put it another way, would you be willing to experiment with other concoctions to clean your film because FilmGuard is "too expensive"?  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-13-2008 08:13 AM                     Louis... Exactly! As long as it's the synthetic type. Mark  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-15-2008 07:40 PM                     Now, why would any company put varnish in oil for lubrication? What is the purpose of varnish in Simplex oil?  |  IP: Logged Robert Minichino Master Film Handler Posts: 350 From: Haskell, NJ, USA Registered: Dec 2005 posted 10-15-2008 10:21 PM                        Varnish comes from oxidized oil, usually from when oil is subjected to heat. Varnish is found in cheap lubricating oil that isn't sufficiently refined and processed.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-16-2008 01:09 AM                     quote: Robert Minichino Varnish comes from oxidized oil, usually from when oil is subjected to heat Gotcha - when one pulls the rocker cover off of a motor and the valve train is all of a dark caramel color...one can tell if oil changes has been observed... quote: Robert Minichino Varnish is found in cheap lubricating oil that isn't sufficiently refined and processed. That almost points towards the QA dept of the makers of Simplex oil then...and they charge a bundle for a quart??? ..go figure...  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 10-16-2008 06:34 AM                        On a related topic, what oil would I use in a Century H type projector? Is the Simplex oil suitable? Also, do all the Century projectors use the same intermittent?  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 10-16-2008 08:28 AM                        Century intermittents are ALMOST the same. Varnish was added to old Simplex oil to help with seal leakage. I had Chevron USA analyze Simplex oil in the 1979 era and they found 10% varnish. For that reason, I started carrying my own oil. If you ever buy any, DO NOT used it to "break in" anything. It will eventually do it, but it will take about 100 times longer. We have plently of left over oil from buying old booths to cover us for break in. Louis  |  IP: Logged

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