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Author Topic: Highlight II/Switching power supply -- Lamp won't strike Jeremy Weigel Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1062 From: Edmond, OK, USA Registered: Mar 2007 posted 11-20-2008 05:24 PM                     Are you getting any no load voltage reading on the meter? Since everything worked until you closed the door I would open it back up bypass the switch again as before and gently wiggle the wires going up to that control board. This is how I found out that I had those loose connections. You might even have a broken wire inside the insulation.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 11-23-2008 12:09 AM                     Ken, any update on this issue?  |  IP: Logged Ken Lackner Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1907 From: Atlanta, GA, USA Registered: Sep 2001 posted 11-23-2008 12:26 AM                     Remember my jumper across terminals 4 and 6? Those terminals are now hooked up to a switch, so at least for now they can strike the lamp manually that way. I did not check the no load voltage because the lamp will strike under certain conditions and not others, so I know the power supply, ignitor, and lamp are all fine. The GO light on the PS is not coming on, so there won't be any no load voltage because the PS isn't even trying to strike the lamp. I did open the door and reconnect my jumper, still nothing. I have checked continuities, reseated connectors, measured voltages, all many times over. Still nothing. At this point, all I can think of is replacing each part of the interlock circuit until it works. Despite what my multimeter is telling me, the problem has to be somewhere in there. How can it not?  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 11-24-2008 02:19 AM                     I agree with you that the problem is in the interlock circuits. And yes, despite what your multimeter is telling you, you def have a bad swich somewhere in that interlock circuit. It is possible that the contacts are fried badly enough to prevent proper current flow. ANY switch that has a resistance value (when closed) of greater than 0.25 (1/4) ohm is bad. Use the lowest ohm range on your meter (1 or 10 ohm fullscale). Another trick to test the interlocks is to connect them up as they should be, then with power on, set your meter to 200volt AC scale, connect one lead to 2 (or 5, since they're jumpered) and use the other lead to read voltage on EACH side of EVERY switch. If the switch is good, you'll read the 120vac ON BOTH sides. The bad switch is the one where you read 120vac ON ONE side only. And if you read 0 volts on BOTH sides, then it is the next switch back in the loop that's bad. I hope that makes sense, it's hard to do this as a text.. K, let me try this: 2-----(jumper)------5 (Meter lead 1 here) 4-----x1(sw)x2----x3(sw)x4-----x5(sw)x6------x7(sw)x8------6 test with meter lead two at the "x"s Let's say the switch in BOLD is the bad one, so here's what you'd get at each of the x's: x1: 120v x2: 120v x3: 120v x4: 120v x5: 120v x6: 0v x7: 0v x8: 0v  |  IP: Logged

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