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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Need help withSuper Lume-X lamphouse
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Dave Macaulay
Film God
Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-24-2009 07:56 AM
The collet (the white plastic piece with the brass tip where the lamp is attached) is held in the focussing unit's swivel bushing with a snap ring at the back. The collet can be a very tight fit in the swivel bushing and you can sometimes push the bushing assembly out of the aluminum housing when trying to push out a collet. The bushing will just press back in, there's a plastic part around the metal ball that allows the swiveling. You have to get the collet out of the bushing, and it only goes one way. If the bushing pops out you have to be gentle with it... don't clamp it in a vise for example. I have reversed the stuck collet/bushing in the aluminum part (so it will push solidly against the step in the aluminum part's bore) and pressed a really jammed collet out with force, either a drill press/arbor press or a hammer. I think the bushing will go either way but you might have to force it out again and reverse it. If you disassemble the focussing unit, be careful not to lose the wee nylon ball that jams the focus threads when you tighten the locking thumbscrew.
If your new collet is super tight as well, take a file and reduce the diameter of the end where it goes through the bushing. It should go in without a big fight, it will be held securely by the snap ring but don't overdo the filing.
Your problem does look like just an overheating lamp end, usually that's because of a loosish cable clamp on the cathode. Check the cable bolt connection for tightness and the crimp connector too, and replace the cable if the wire strands are charred looking.
Make sure the clamping allen screw is in good shape and is the correct one. If someone cut off a longer one to fit, the threads may not be long enough to clamp onto the lamp even with the screw really really tight (I've seen this). Use a bit of dielectric grease or antiseize on the allen screw threads and washer - this allows easy tightening and loosening without the skreeking that seems to scare people out of tightening properly.
Ensure the fan is turning freely and is clean. When the lamp is out the fan is easy to remove and reinstall for cleaning and oiling, disconnect the microswitch wires and power wires and it unscrews after removing the finger guard. Keep the screws carefully, the finger guard uses very short screws that are hard to find.
The squirrel cage gets gummed up and furry, which drastically reduces airflow. Clean it as well as you can with strong detergent and hot water, it comes off the motor shaft once you undo the screw on the side of the shaft - either a hex head setscrew on older ones or torx (20 or 15?) on newer ones. Clean out the inside of the fan housing as well as you can too. Oil the motor bearings, 3in1 electric motor oil is OK.
the fan pressurizes the rear compartment of the lamphouse, primarily blowing air through the mirror hole to cool the lamp envelope and also cooling the cathode end a bit. If the airflow is weak here the lamp will get hot, and the mirror can be damaged (look for a burnt/flaky ring around the centre hole).
Check the airflow microswitch operation (the wires, by the way, go on the bent lug that comes off the switch side and the adjacent centre lug that comes out of the switch end). The arm should move freely. You can check the operation by blocking the fan inlet with the lamp on: the rectifier (and lamp) should switch off more or less immediately, and come back on soon after unblocking the intake.
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