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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Topic: Repair or replace insubordinate subwoofer?
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Robert Minichino
Master Film Handler
Posts: 350
From: Haskell, NJ, USA
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 04-19-2010 07:49 PM
Tony, a properly set limiter CAN protect a sub from damage, but improperly set it will make it much easier to damage a sub. A brick wall limiter setup will greatly increase the average power going to the sub, increasing the risk of thermal damage. Since huge transients generally don't damage subs, a limiter with a fairly leisurely attack time will allow the transients to pass, keeping subjective sound quality good, but will still be effective at cutting long term high power conditions. This should obviously be used in concert with a long release time and a low threshold to preserve the average power limiting characteristic.
This is a common configuration in permanently installed live sound systems, especially when you don't know what half-deaf yahoo is going to be behind the board from day to day. If you need something like this in a theatre then something is seriously wrong with your staff, and no amount of electronics will fix that.
Oh, and having more subwoofers is better, especially if they're spread out along the front wall, even if you don't need more output. More cone area means less excursion which means less power compression and less distortion. Also, multiple subs are more likely to evenly excite room modes (more of an issue for smaller rooms) and makes it less likely that some seats will end up in a node.
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 04-19-2010 08:56 PM
Thanks Robert...you beat me to a response to John (and by extension, to Tony).
A limiter in this application is just about completely the wrong tool for the job...the odds that one cooks the sub with a limiter, in this application is greater than actually protecting it.
A better design for a cinema sub would be the careful use of a compressor. If you declare a portion of the output to be "normal" non effect "booms" just low frequency extension of the main channels (as is often done in a analog soundtrack), then you would leave this area linear. Then carefully select the hinge point and compression factor to extend the usable range of the sub such that only the big effects get squashed. You could stack a couple of compressors to double hinge the output so the compression gets more progressive and leave the lower level signals effectively "normal". You could then end this with a limiter as Robert describes to deal with prolonged loud sub passages though, in my experience, the limiter will do very little in a cinema environment to help. The sub channel normally does not have "stings" or other short burst noises...they are often prolonged and high powered. All the limiter can do is slam the lid down and cook the driver.
Because this system is so underpowered and under subed, a limiter alone just wouldn't work, it would forever be in limit when the sub channel came on.
But lets look at this again...Adding the second subwoofer, without changing the amplifier will have how much difference in gain (presuming solid state amps of typical design)? Anyone?
6dB, typical. You get 3dB from mutual coupling and another 3dB from the amplifier through more efficient power transfer.
This is one of the chief reasons the second sub in any system yields a lot of "boom-for-the-buck." It is more efficient all of the way around.
To put it in more perspective, 6dB difference is the difference between 300-watts and 1200-watts...it is huge.
By the time you buy the compressor/limiter and pay someone qualified to set them up, the 2nd sub was cheaper and better.
As stated before, with the right size amplifier(s), the 3rd sub puts you over the top in terms of power handling/sound producing. The trick there is getting amplifiers with that much power and have it be cost effective. Odds are, the 4th subwoofer will allow one to use a more reasonable sized amplifier and lower the effort of the entire system.
Steve
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