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Author Topic: Simplex 35 Projector / Framing issue Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-09-2012 04:29 PM                     Zachary sent me a PM asking a few other questions so I'll answer here too: Some other possibilities that came up from the questions are: The gear that drives the shutter off the vertical shaft (I'm too lazy to look up the part # right now) if it is loose or the bore is worn out it MIGHT cause this problem..I have never seen this on a Simplex, but it is very common on Century's. Another thought that occurred to me: If the shutter is warped or the shaft is damaged it could also cause problems. This is one time where a video of the projector in action would help..can you upload one to Youtube or something Zachary?  |  IP: Logged Zachary C Washburn Film Handler Posts: 18 From: Peoria, IL Registered: Sep 2005 posted 03-09-2012 05:06 PM                     Thanks Tony. I am glad that you mentioned the warped shutter. This thought had crossed my mind this morning. That if the shutter was bent the centrifugal force could be enough to cause the sliding. I am going to try to make a couple videos to show you. Here is a link to the 1st video of the assembly. http://youtu.be/5Z4cADvSPyY I have a show playing right now. But as soon as I can I will try to get a good one the shutter movement. I am looking at the Framing and Shutter assembly that I removed from this head and another that I have in a canabalized head. I can't make either one of them move like they do while in motion with the rest of the projector. And at this point the only thing I have not changed out internally is the horizontal drive shaft.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-09-2012 06:16 PM                     Yep that is the classic shutter drive failure. You need a rebuilt drive for sure. There is a spring washer and solid washer behind that gear that go bad and cause what you are seeing. Another thing: That outboard bearing is too far out on the shaft...it needs to be pushed in to eliminate end play. To do that, on the right bottom of the casting, below the slot, there is a setscrew. Loosen it, and using your fingers, push that outboard bearing in as far as it will go. (If the bearing won't move, GENTLY pry open the slot on the right.) Retighten the setscrew (don't overtighten it or you will break the casting.) If you are really lucky that will solve the problem without a rebuild..as long as the washers I mentioned are still ok. CAUTION: After doing that turn the machine over by hand and feel and listen carefully...if the washers are too far gone it is possible to push the bearing in too far and cause binding or a mis-mesh of the vert. shaft and shutter drive gears. The machine sounds a bit rough too...is it quieter without film? (If that was how it runs without film there are bigger issues here...)  |  IP: Logged Zachary C Washburn Film Handler Posts: 18 From: Peoria, IL Registered: Sep 2005 posted 03-09-2012 06:23 PM                     That is with film running. It is much quieter without. However there is still a clunking coming from the shutter. Especially when she is coming to a stop.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-09-2012 06:26 PM                     Ok, read my previous post for some tips that I was editing in while you replied. If you adjust that bearing and it helps let us know.  |  IP: Logged Zachary C Washburn Film Handler Posts: 18 From: Peoria, IL Registered: Sep 2005 posted 03-09-2012 06:57 PM                     Tony, I just adjusted the bearing in the shutter assembly. My fingers are crossed. I ran the projector without film and there was practically no movement. Here is a link to the video of the adjusted bearing position. My asst was over my shoulder talking. Sorry for any jackassery in the background. http://youtu.be/OVo-vxbjSVw I will let you know how she runs with film. It was sounding a bit louder than before. But I had disconnected the oil line to prevent get sprayed. I am hoping that was the cause of the added noise. Alright. 15 minutes into the movie and she hasn't ticked once. My operator is going to keep his eye on it through the night. But this is the most progress I have seen so far. Thanks a lot. I'll holler if we have any other problems it.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 03-09-2012 08:10 PM                     Looks like you might have got it fixed. The ticking you heard in the video run was most likely the intermittent because it had no oil going in. (or it could have been the drive if the washers are shot.) Keep a close eye on it for at least the next 3-5 shows..if it holds up ok it will probably last until you go digital.  |  IP: Logged Victor Liorentas Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 800 From: london ontario canada Registered: May 2009 posted 08-29-2012 08:17 PM                     How hard is it to swap out the shutter drive assembly?  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 08-29-2012 09:06 PM                     Not hard at all. Remove shutter cover and light shield/dowser holder assys. Remove shutter blade. On gearbox side, remove screw from the shutter drive gear on the vertical shaft and slide it down (or up) out of the way. Back to outside of the head, remove the four allen bolts holding the shutter drive assy. Remove the drive assy. Turn framing knob so that the compensator cam's narrowest part is at the top. Insert new shutter drive assy into the head, make sure the roller for the compensator is sitting on top of the framing cam. (You might have to push the shutter drive assy downward slightly to compress the spring on the compensator so the drive's shaft and bearing boss goes through the hole in the head.) Slide the shutter drive gear on the vertical shaft back in mesh with the shutter drive's gear. Be careful not to damage any teeth. Reinstall and tighten the gears' screw. Reinstall the shutter blade. Tighten the screws just enough so it can't spin freely, but can be turned on the shaft while holding the projectors' drivetrain from moving. Set the shutter timing knob to it's mid-point. Re-time the shutter and tighten the shutter screw securely. (if you need step by step instructions on timing a shutter you'd better not even think of trying to change a drive. ) Replace the lightshield and dowser assys, and replace the shutter cover. On the bench should take about 15-20 minutes total, longer if on a console or pedestal where the lamphouse snood gets in the way.  |  IP: Logged Victor Liorentas Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 800 From: london ontario canada Registered: May 2009 posted 08-29-2012 09:36 PM                     Thanks Tony! Yes I know how to set the shutter timing. On my new PR 1014 head I don't see any movement of the shutter drive when running but do have some travel ghost at top and bottom. Once I know what to do for a swap which I can practice on my spare xl head I thought I should try and double check that everything is adjusted correctly before doing a swap out. If that fails I am hoping to get a rebuilt one from you Tony.  |  IP: Logged Victor Liorentas Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 800 From: london ontario canada Registered: May 2009 posted 08-31-2012 05:30 PM                     Well I have the shutter drive out on my spare black xl head. It seems to be in great shape. When I push the end of the shaft towards the spring,it does move in a tiny bit. Is this normal for a new or rebuilt assembly? This one may be fine as I never really scrutinized the ghosting on this head. I was thinking of swapping it with the newer pr 1014 just to see...  |  IP: Logged

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