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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Shaky Picture with a motiograph (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Shaky Picture with a motiograph
Donald Brown
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 131
From: Lincoln, DE
Registered: Sep 2009


 - posted 11-13-2013 03:51 PM      Profile for Donald Brown   Email Donald Brown   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Christopher:
The first area to check to adjust the vertical tension is with the spring tension on the shaft that holds the framing knob. There is a spring attached to the framing shaft inside the shutter opening on the rear of the head. To adjust the tension, remove the operating side framing knob, then push the shaft toward the gear side of the head. When the gear disengages from the rack on the shifting frame assembly, recover the tension by rotating the shaft. There are specific instructions in the manual on this site that give recommendations to achieve the correct tension as well as for re-engaging the gear with the rack.
There is also method to adjust the tension of the v-rails on the shifting frame with the adjustment screws on the right hand rail, but it would be best to start by checking the spring tension first.
Don Brown

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Jim Cassedy
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1661
From: San Francisco, CA
Registered: Dec 2006


 - posted 11-13-2013 06:10 PM      Profile for Jim Cassedy   Email Jim Cassedy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Matz
He and a lot of oldtimer projectioists from the 40's & early 50's
thought Motiograph was the rolls Royce of 35mm projectors

Same experience here. A lot of the 'old timers' who I worked with in the NY union
back in the 1970's swore by by the "AA" Motiograph machines.

There were quite a few of them in the booths of the old "Prudential" theater
chain (later "AIT") on Long Island back then. The standard practice in many
booths was lube the gears with nothing more than common vaseline.
It seemed to work OK. (And it alleviated my apprehension when I first got into
'the business' as to why every booth seemed to have large jars of vaseline around!)

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Christopher Lani
Film Handler

Posts: 62
From: Ely, Nevada, USA
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted 11-13-2013 10:12 PM      Profile for Christopher Lani   Author's Homepage   Email Christopher Lani   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Would this be the answer if this only happens once the projector warmed up? I came back in during the movie and it was half way up the screen! I have my hand on the framing knob as I write this!

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Christopher Lani
Film Handler

Posts: 62
From: Ely, Nevada, USA
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted 11-14-2013 02:16 AM      Profile for Christopher Lani   Author's Homepage   Email Christopher Lani   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Okay, I made it through and am going to adjust the spring tension in the morning. I see the descriptions of both procedures in the 2 manuals. The problem is I don't see corresponding illustrations for the second procedure. Kind of confusing. I will let you know how it goes in the morning. Adjusted the shutter timing and other than the creeping, the machine is running well. Thanks again Donald!

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Christopher Lani
Film Handler

Posts: 62
From: Ely, Nevada, USA
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted 11-14-2013 12:47 PM      Profile for Christopher Lani   Author's Homepage   Email Christopher Lani   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I found the illustrations at the begining of the file! Duh, Thanks!

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Christopher Lani
Film Handler

Posts: 62
From: Ely, Nevada, USA
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted 11-14-2013 02:19 PM      Profile for Christopher Lani   Author's Homepage   Email Christopher Lani   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That worked line a charm Donald! Thanks again. I owe you one and thanks also goes to Film-Tech for having such an awesome site!

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Stu Rasmussen
Film Handler

Posts: 2
From: Silverton, Oregon USA
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted 12-09-2013 12:43 AM      Profile for Stu Rasmussen   Author's Homepage   Email Stu Rasmussen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't think it's necessary to remove the intermittent and rotate it to adjust the shutter timing - at least it isn't on the AAA and I think that part of the head is the same between the AA and AAA models. If that's not the case - ignore the rest of this post!

First, adjust the shutter timing knob to the middle of its range.

On the non-op side of the projector, locate the alignment hole in the casting that engages a hole in the shutter drum. Slide a 3/32" pin punch into that hole, push it gently toward the shutter and rotate the mechanism until the pin engages the shutter drum.

Next, loosen the Allen screw in the middle of the shutter gear that holds the shutter gear to the shutter shaft and pull back gently on the gear. This decouples the shutter drum from the gear train and allows the mechanism to turn freely while the shutter remains stationary.

Go around to the operator side of the projector and turn the mechanism in the forward direction until the intermittent sprocket just starts to turn. It may be easiest to put a finger on the intermittent sprocket and stop turning when you feel the motion of the sprocket. This is the 'sync' point to the (currently locked by the 3/32" pin punch) shutter drum position.

Go back to the non-op side and tighten the Allen screw in the shutter gear while being careful to not move the rest of the projector gear train. . Remove the 3/32" pin punch that is locking the shutter and you're pretty much in sync. Run a test film and fine adjust the shutter timing. Done!

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