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Author Topic: There's a Brand New 70mm Print of "2001" BUT . . .
Sam D. Chavez
Film God

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From: Martinez, CA USA
Registered: Aug 2003


 - posted 10-25-2016 05:02 PM      Profile for Sam D. Chavez   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Agree with Brad on his tips for the JJ. I had to do quite a lot of "gate"work on a couple of JJ equipped theaters for H8 and other 70mm film. For whatever reason, the 35mm gate skates needed to move forward around .040 inches just to achieve minimum tension relative to 70mm. Before I did that, the projector had been set to favor 35mm so the 70mm was screaming through the head. No one had a complaint except when the projector didn't want to roll at startup.

I always start in these situations by running film and inching the gate open to see when the film starts to jump on the screen and then work back from there.

Now, on one of JJ equipped H8 locations, I had no time for this but still needed to back off the tension, so I drilled and tapped the gate plate so I could use a set screw to hit the trap, making a crude but effective stop.

An operator who we all know decided it looked like crap and took it out and the print begin to scream and powder. He learned his lesson as it took me a couple of days to get back there to sort it out.

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 10-25-2016 06:06 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad Miller writes:

quote: Brad Miller
In regards to the #2 DP70 projector of Leo's, keeping in mind I am not a total expert with the DP70 model, my suspicion based upon the info presented above is that it will likely be one of these things:

*Azimuth of gate to trap (or gate/trap assy to film path) is off.

Possibly. Not sure how I'd check this.

quote: Brad Miller
*Intermittent sprocket lateral alignment is not centered with respect to gate/trap.
I doubt it, because there is a screw thread down the middle of the shaft, through which the sprocket is secured. So if there is any lateral "wiggle room," it's micrometers at most. I've turned the sprocket round (examining the teeth with a pocket microscope while it was off the shaft and not finding any damage on either the 35mm or 70mm teeth), which made no difference to the noise level. If the shaft itself were not properly aligned, possibly due to a loose seal as it goes through the chassis, or even a fault in the cross box, that could do it, though.

quote: Brad Miller
*Gate/trap tension is too great. Remember this will cause the film to buckle very slightly in the gate (not usually visually noticeable, but will cause the center of the projected image to be out of focus).
Definitely not that. The gate tension on a Norelco tends to tighten of its own accord as a reel runs through (it's done this on every one I've ever used), and so I always check it at the start of a reel by backing if off until I just start to see picture shake, and then tightening it just until the picture is steady. Adjusting the tension does not make any difference to the noise this projector makes.

quote: Brad Miller
*Hooked sprocket teeth, likely on the intermittent sprocket, but could be any of them.
Not that. I've checked the teeth on all three sprockets that the film passes over.

quote: Brad Miller
*Intermittent show pressure is too great or the alignment from shoe to intermittent sprocket is off.
Not that. The intermittent shoe is part of the removable gate assembly, and when I swap the assembly with that of the other projector, the noise does not move with it.

quote: Brad Miller
As a super quick test I would also put the #1 70mm kit into #2 (with junk film of course) and see if the operational noise level drops to normal as a quick test to rule out something within the actual 70mm kit for the #2 machine.
I've done that with the gate assembly, but not with the bands or pad rollers. That is what I need to check next.

Thanks to Brad and everyone for suggestions.

quote: Tyler Purcell
Hey Leo, what would it take to get new prints of Vertigo and LOA made? Do you think if the money could be raised, the archives would let the source materials out to have another print made like they did with 2001?
That's a decision for programmers and leadership to make, not me. LOA would certainly be seriously expensive (I'm guessing in the region of $30k) on account of its length. But there again, we have never attracted a crowd of less than 350ish, even for the now worn out Sony print #4, and frequently sell the Egyptian out. My guess is that a lot will depend on ticket sales for the week-long 2001 run in December.

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Brad Miller
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 - posted 10-25-2016 06:42 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Leo, I would have to have a DP70 in front of me to remember all of the adjustments. It's been almost 20 years since I spent any serious time with that model, but if one was in front of me I'm sure I could remember. (That being said with the general love for the DP70 there should soon be someone else chime in here with the expertise to share their knowledge.)

I doubt it would turn out too good with booth acoustics, but is it possible to record 15 seconds of each projector running 70mm and email me an audio file? (I could also post it here.) Just don't get TOO close with the mic when recording and make sure the mic is in the same relative position to each projector. (You could likely just do a cell phone video.)

On the lateral intermittent sprocket alignment, is it not possible to get your head in there at such an angle to see the centering of the sprocket teeth in relation to the sprocket holes in the film? Could you stick a newer cell phone in there that has a good macro focus ability and snap a picture maybe? Alternatively (and I've never done this, but it's an idea) perhaps you could put a strip of acetate film in there, make sure to pull it down a dozen frames by hand to make sure the film is straight, then manually pull on the film with the machine at a standstill to try and force the intermittent sprocket teeth to make some stretch marks on the sprockets for a frame (which you can then inspect for centering outside of the machine).

Sam, I am very glad to see someone else has noticed the JJ gate clearance issue! Most people I talk to about this tell me there is no such problem (while I plug up my ears when they roll the projector, cringing at the extra stress on the film and intermittent).

I would have to say every JJ I've worked with needed more than a mere .040 inches of extra clearance relative to 35mm. Granted I didn't go around measuring, but I'm curious if that was a general rule you calculated, or if that was the measurement from one sample JJ you serviced back in the day?

On turret JJs I've been able to make things "better" by adding a few layers of electrical tape behind the 35mm gate, but I've never been able to add "enough" to get the 35mm clearance just right.

My procedure typically puts me at needing to leave the 35mm gate tension just barely enough to hold a film reasonably steady at 12:00, with some films needing to run between 1:00-3:00 on the dial. During that setting of the gate/lens holder assembly I also have to pay extremely close attention to the focus on screen since it is like a Kinoton lens turret in the fact there is wiggle room in all directions, but once you start tightening things down things tend to drift a little bit away from where you had it (so you have to pre-estimate to get it to land dead on where you need it). If that gate isn't sitting just right then focus (top to bottom) will definitely be compromised. It gets even more fun with dual projector setups, where I have to get in and shim the mount for side to side even focus.

Anyway, once that gate/lens holder assembly is locked down and I have perfect focus with 35mm in all 4 corners I have found 70mm will fall right into place in regards to focus...but the gate ALWAYS closes too far for running 70mm without exerting extra wear.

On the turret JJs there really is no choice but to loosen the gate mount when switching formats, but on single lens JJs you can use my old allen wrench trick from my days at GCC Northpark. In a nutshell, get yourself a set of metric allens and there is a place you can position it to prevent the gate from closing too far. The nice thing is with a set of allens, you have repeatable precision in 1/2mm increments. [thumbsup] This came in handy back in the day when we would run a morning trade screening in 35mm, then switch to the normal 70mm engagement (which may have been dts70), then at midnight run the older 70mm print for a midnight movie (always mag and thicker than dts70). I would simply label the tail of the print with the size of allen wrench to use. We NEVER had the slightest problem with 70mm, the projectors purred very quietly and the image on screen was spot on flawless as various people who attended there can testify. [Wink]

I had one H8 JJ in Houston that was so tight I found I couldn't turn the projector down by hand with film in the gate. It was so damn tight I didn't even want to risk damaging anything and I just optimized it for polyester 70mm since that's all those stripped-down machines will ever run again. I also had another one with horrible top to bottom focus requiring adjustment and another couple which weren't too offensively far off, but definitely needed some easing up. Regardless none of the JJs in my H8 territory were aligned properly. (I've always felt this was an area of JJs that few people seemed to have much expertise with, and the H8 run further proved that theory.)

I never thought about tapping the gate plate with a stop screw. Pretty interesting solution. Do you have photos? That might be a good idea for some of these venues that run 35mm and 70mm and just flip things around and pay no attention to what they are really doing to the prints.

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Sam D. Chavez
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From: Martinez, CA USA
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 - posted 10-25-2016 09:44 PM      Profile for Sam D. Chavez   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Did not measure the coke can shims but i kept adding them top and bottom until I got where I wanted. It was not back in the day, it was just last year at the Castro where they have all sorts of issues running a different print every couple of days.

As to the origin of the mismatch, Lonny mentioned that something about differences in gate parts on JJ and JJ2. The original JJ apparently had a sprung gate like the Century Model H projector. It was a terrible design as both the gate and the bands could both move and change the focus point when a splice came through, so was replaced by a solid gate. That supposedly led to the depth mismatch between 35 and 70 when the JJ2 came out.

Don't think I have a good picture of the setscrew detail but it was down toward the bottom where it would could catch the edge of the trap. Nothing fancy, just a 10/32 screw with a locknut.

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David Stambaugh
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 - posted 10-25-2016 10:09 PM      Profile for David Stambaugh   Author's Homepage   Email David Stambaugh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Leo: My comment on the cost of the print wasn't meant to be snarky. I think what you guys are doing is fantastic. I would have naively guessed more like $50K for the print. I was thinking Jeez, someone with deep pockets and a love for film (think Scorsese, Spielberg, Lucas) could commit $1M toward striking new 70mm prints of many historic movies and keep 70mm going for many years in venues like yours, and it would be pocket change to them.

[beer]

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 09:53 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Brad. We've got two big festivals about to hit us at the Egyptian, as a result of which I'm not scheduled to be at the Aero again until November 20, so please forgive me if the next update on this isn't instant. Step 1 will be to try swapping pad rollers and bands, and if that doesn't help, I'll make that video/audio recording as a step 2 (will probably use my D-SLR: its built-in microphone will certainly pick up the difference between the sound of the two machines).

David - I've wondered if one option for us might be to approach a major donor or foundation with a pitch for a big project to have our own 70mm prints made of all the major classics for which good printing elements (i.e. INs and DTS track negs) exist, and thus are printable without seriously expensive back-end restoration first, with an undertaking to play one at each theater, say, once every two weeks on a year-round rotation. Daniel Schulz writes in another thread:

quote: Daniel Schulz
The occasional 5/70 release serves to keep the machinery humming on standby so it can be revved up for the release of Dunkirk.
It seems to me that over the last year we've seen small run 5/70 releases of some frankly forgettable movies. If there is an informal industry agreement to ensure that FotoKem has enough business trickling in to keep its 5/70 release printing operation viable, surely a better way to do that would be to find some way of financing new prints of the widescreen classics that we know have a long term audience? It's like the difference between popular and classical in the music business: the rock/pop album typically achieves 95% of its sales in the first week of release and then disappears without trace, but a classical album will sell slowly but steadily over 30-40 years.

Personally, I'd far rather that the industry helps to keep FotoKem's 5/70 operation on life support by ordering a slow trickle of new prints of LOA, WSS, 2001, South Pacific, Oklahoma, and the other 15-20 DTS 70 restorations that we know will pull a decent house in the few 5/70-equipped venues dotted around the world for decades to come and are a far better showcase for the medium, rather than 10 prints of Star Bores Episode 25: The Farting Menace that will be gathering dust after the opening week, only to be seen again by the hardest of hard core 70 geeks.

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Tyler Purcell
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 180
From: Van Nuys, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 11:37 AM      Profile for Tyler Purcell   Author's Homepage   Email Tyler Purcell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just an FYI, Fotokem's large format lab is in no trouble. They make almost all of the IMAX dome prints in the country, so they're churning out new large format prints daily. The 5/70 business is pails in comparison to the 15/70 business.

Striking a print off an already DTS prepped IN is easy and inexpensive. For films that don't have the DTS IN already, it's a very expensive process to take the analog elements, mix them for DTS and spit out a new soundtrack. I fret that cost is a bridge too far, but new prints struck off the DTS IN, isn't that bad. The big question remains, how good is the IN? I'm not sure how they made the DTS IN for LOA, but it was not using modern film socks. I don't know how they performed the original 1988 restoration, but I assume a new IP would have been made from the camera negative that is probably deteriorated. That process would need to be done all over again for it to truly show what's in that negative, as I'm certain it's nowhere near as noisy/grainy as the print I saw. That circulating print was probably made on early 90's (pre vision) print stock. Kodak didn't update their 70mm print stock until the late 90's. I believe Titanic was one of the first 70mm released films shot and finished on Vision.

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 11:52 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The print of LOA you saw on Friday was on 2383 stock dated 2004. 2383 superseded 5386 for 70mm print stock around 2000. I have never seen any 2386 70mm (though I have encountered several 2386 35mm prints made between around 1997-2000), so I'm guessing that the 70mm print stock production line moved from acetate to polyester, and the new emulsion, all in one fell swoop.

Pix and sound negs are separate elements that pass through different printer gates in a single pass, as a general rule and in a typical continuous contact printer used for release printing. So I'd guess that the DTS timecode IN was probably combined with a pix IN dating from the 1988 restoration to make the 2004 batch of DTS prints. As you say, the question is what sort of condition that pix IN is in, and if further, good quality prints could be struck from it without needing to go back to an earlier generation.

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Tyler Purcell
Expert Film Handler

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From: Van Nuys, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 06:05 PM      Profile for Tyler Purcell   Author's Homepage   Email Tyler Purcell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yep, you're right... they probably struck prints off the 1988 IN, that makes perfect sense. So what they'd need to do is go back to the IP and make a new IN with the combined soundtrack on new stock. Even better would be to make a new photochemical IP from the original camera negative on modern stocks. They COULD do this by simply scanning the camera negative in 8k and lasering it out at 8k to create a new IN with modern stocks. I doubt they'd be willing to go through all of that effort, but since the DCP is not 8k currently, maybe there is a chance they'd restore it digitally and have a beautiful file that would only need to be lasered out to film again for projection. Putting it back on film is expensive, but a lot less then a full photochemical restoration. Digital restoration @ 8k isn't too bad, there won't be much loss along the way.

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Mark Ogden
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 - posted 10-26-2016 06:44 PM      Profile for Mark Ogden   Email Mark Ogden   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Probably no-one would want to go this route, but is it even possible to mag stripe a 70mm print these days?

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Tyler Purcell
Expert Film Handler

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From: Van Nuys, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 07:13 PM      Profile for Tyler Purcell   Author's Homepage   Email Tyler Purcell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
No it's not. The glue was found to be too toxic, so they don't make it or the mag stripe anymore. [Frown]

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Scott Norwood
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 - posted 10-26-2016 09:39 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
How do they make mag fullcoat, then? It is in the current Kodak MP catalog....

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Tyler Purcell
Expert Film Handler

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From: Van Nuys, CA
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 - posted 10-26-2016 11:45 PM      Profile for Tyler Purcell   Author's Homepage   Email Tyler Purcell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Not sure how they make full coat, but it's not anything like mag striping. Remember, the glue has to survive through chemical baths with mag stripe, but it doesn't with full coat.

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Sam D. Chavez
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From: Martinez, CA USA
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 - posted 10-27-2016 01:03 AM      Profile for Sam D. Chavez   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I was under the impression the striping was the last operation on a developed and printed reel before actually recording or "sounding" it.

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 10-27-2016 01:26 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Full coat is basically the same stuff as magnetic tape, only with a slightly thicker polyester base.

I don't know the details of the chemistry, but would guess that coating the entire film surface with nothing else on it is a simpler process than just coating a small part of it with one side having photographic emulsion it, the base side possibly having had an anti-halation layer on it and the base having absorbed some processing chemistry.

The reason I'd heard for 70mm mag striping being no more was that one of the chemicals involved was seriously bad for the ozone layer, and therefore had been banned under international treaties for all uses apart from a small number of medical applications for which there was no viable alternative.

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